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abjectwoe
May, 2025

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Official Ski Pressing/Shaping/Building/Constructing Thread

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NinetyFour
Posts: 8650 - Karma: 13,410
All of us have thought about building your own shit at one time or another, but how many of you actually have? This thread will be dedicated to those who actually build your own gear from scratch, surely there are some of you on NS. Now I can't contribute to this thread much because I've never built anything and I only have a small amount of time working with fiberglass, but would sure love to see some info from you dudes who actually do, whether you build in your basement, or for a living. So if you can legitimately contribute please do.
14 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
freddy.allportLooks sick, got a side view of the profile?


The picture in the middle is the profile.
8 years ago
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freddy.allport
Posts: 237 - Karma: 954
SmartThe picture in the middle is the profile.


Wow that would not load for me the first time. whoops
8 years ago
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cadebucket
Posts: 298 - Karma: 991
Bump, really good info on here for building your own skis
7 years ago
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hellertime
Posts: 1 - Karma: 10
Love this thread. Gotta read through it in detail to help with my own build ideas!
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
weve had some issues with bases moving in the press. what do you guys do to secure the bases while pressing?
7 years ago
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hot.pocket
Posts: 4239 - Karma: 10,756
Bakerpowweve had some issues with bases moving in the press. what do you guys do to secure the bases while pressing?


Super 77 Spray Adhesive, it's what we used before we invested in snap-in aluminum cassettes. Just spray a good zig zag down the entire base and it'll help a ton.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Super-77-16-75-fl-oz-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Adhesive-77-24/100067550
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
Bakerpowweve had some issues with bases moving in the press. what do you guys do to secure the bases while pressing?


hot.pocketSuper 77 Spray Adhesive, it's what we used before we invested in snap-in aluminum cassettes. Just spray a good zig zag down the entire base and it'll help a ton.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Super-77-16-75-fl-oz-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Adhesive-77-24/100067550


+1 for spray adhesive, I used LocTite 200. I would spray one 3"+/- strip down the middle of where each base would stick after applying mold release all around that area and never had a base move.
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
thank you thank you! will post back after i build the gf her first official pair!
7 years ago
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iggyskier
Posts: 10456 - Karma: 10,253
Spray it thin and consistent over the full length vs concentrated in small spots. It will hold better and make flattening the bases easier.
7 years ago
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Nickc88
Posts: 630 - Karma: 2,074
Quick question. How much $ would a diy vaccuum pump run you?
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
Nickc88Quick question. How much $ would a diy vaccuum pump run you?


joewoodworker
7 years ago
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freddy.allport
Posts: 237 - Karma: 954
loganimlachjoewoodworker


What model did you end up using? Ive been following this thread for years and may finally have the budget to start my set up this summer. Before I go through the whole thing again I was wondering what pressure range you ended up using.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
freddy.allportWhat model did you end up using? Ive been following this thread for years and may finally have the budget to start my set up this summer. Before I go through the whole thing again I was wondering what pressure range you ended up using.


I bought the V2 Project kit and made my own little pressure tanks and frame.
7 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1533 - Karma: 4,347
For me, I bought a pump similar to the thomas one listed on veneer supplies. I got it used off Kijiji for $50, and continuously run it until everything has cured. It pulls about -27 in hg which I am pleased with for the price.
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
my final project in my composite engineering program is going to be geared around building a ski with a hexcore and foam or some other form of dampening material to fill the foam. has anyone built a ski with hexcore? i know a company based in norway called moonligt skis that messes around with it for race and touring skis.

we are gonna build a full length metal mold out of steel that we wil then vacuum bag and that we will use with heat pads or put inside of our giant oven we use for pre preg on other parts and projects. igneous skis does something similar with the steel mold but they dont do hexcore or carbon stuff.

ill be updating this as it goes. just starting the CAD designs for the ski and mold.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
Bakerpowmy final project in my composite engineering program is going to be geared around building a ski with a hexcore and foam or some other form of dampening material to fill the foam. has anyone built a ski with hexcore? i know a company based in norway called moonligt skis that messes around with it for race and touring skis.

we are gonna build a full length metal mold out of steel that we wil then vacuum bag and that we will use with heat pads or put inside of our giant oven we use for pre preg on other parts and projects. igneous skis does something similar with the steel mold but they dont do hexcore or carbon stuff.

ill be updating this as it goes. just starting the CAD designs for the ski and mold.


Fuck yeah, can't wait to see it! How are you keeping your voids open/clear of epoxy?
7 years ago
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
Has anyone managed or tried to source rubber tip spacers like rossi/ dynastar uses in some of their more freestyle skis.

Maybe just a sheet of rubber from mcmaster would work but I figured I’d ask first.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
TheWeazHas anyone managed or tried to source rubber tip spacers like rossi/ dynastar uses in some of their more freestyle skis.

Maybe just a sheet of rubber from mcmaster would work but I figured I’d ask first.


Holmenkohl (sp?) makes it, same formula as edge vbs. I would bond test some of the McMaster rubber before buying a bunch, a tip slap test would be best
7 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
TheWeazHas anyone managed or tried to source rubber tip spacers like rossi/ dynastar uses in some of their more freestyle skis.

Maybe just a sheet of rubber from mcmaster would work but I figured I’d ask first.

Did test with rubber like that and it didn't bond well at all.
7 years ago
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
I’ve been playing with putting a hefty amount of vds through the tip, but I want more rubber up there, rossi seems to make it bond somehow, I’m sure a designed tip spacer would bond better than a standard sheet of rubber bought online.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
TheWeazI’ve been playing with putting a hefty amount of vds through the tip, but I want more rubber up there, rossi seems to make it bond somehow, I’m sure a designed tip spacer would bond better than a standard sheet of rubber bought online.


I had a bunch of expired 2mm rubber when I was at armada but never played with it, they for sure make it. It wasn't Holmenkohl, that was the wax company. I'll dig a little and find the name.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
TheWeazI’ve been playing with putting a hefty amount of vds through the tip, but I want more rubber up there, rossi seems to make it bond somehow, I’m sure a designed tip spacer would bond better than a standard sheet of rubber bought online.


Haberkorn, there it is. https://www.haberkorn.com/produkte/skifolien-und-seilrollenfutterungen/
7 years ago
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TheWeaz
Posts: 803 - Karma: 1,903
Thanks logan, I’ll have to get some this summer and see how they bond
7 years ago
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conner_lion
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
TheWeazHas anyone managed or tried to source rubber tip spacers like rossi/ dynastar uses in some of their more freestyle skis.

Maybe just a sheet of rubber from mcmaster would work but I figured I’d ask first.


http://www.store.skilab.com/ I haven't ordered from here yet, but plan to in the next month or so. they have tip/tail spacer rubber
7 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
conner_lionhttp://www.store.skilab.com/ I haven't ordered from here yet, but plan to in the next month or so. they have tip/tail spacer rubber


Are you talking about the 150mm vds? Side note if you want it in a month order now.
7 years ago
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conner_lion
Posts: 2 - Karma: 10
SmartAre you talking about the 150mm vds? Side note if you want it in a month order now.


I just checked, it's ptex not rubber. But no, they are 12"x12"x2mm umhw squares that are designated as tip/tail fill material
7 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
conner_lionI just checked, it's ptex not rubber. But no, they are 12"x12"x2mm umhw squares that are designated as tip/tail fill material


Check out https://crownplastics.com/shop/ they make bases/topsheets/sidewalls/tipspacers and they ship out really fast.
7 years ago
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hot.pocket
Posts: 4239 - Karma: 10,756
SmartCheck out https://crownplastics.com/shop/ they make bases/topsheets/sidewalls/tipspacers and they ship out really fast.


Could be wrong but you're most likely looking at large minimum order quantities from crown.
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
hot.pocketCould be wrong but you're most likely looking at large minimum order quantities from crown.


Negative they’ve got reasonably priced consumer size lengths
7 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
loganimlachNegative they’ve got reasonably priced consumer size lengths

That they do, now just need to find a place like them for edges. Waelzholz is ok if you can wait 2 or 3 months.

Do you guys know of anyone else?
7 years ago
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loganimlach
Posts: 5132 - Karma: 14,103
Honestly I never pursued a big order, skilab is so reasonably priced and come sandblasted
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
anyone design their cores in catia? would love some tips on using catia to create cores and using the prismatic/surface machining if ANYONE has any experience in catia... have access to a cnc shopbot and would love to create a taper on the tip and tail, ideally do some sort of triangle taper into the core where the tip spacer will be placed.
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
loganimlachFuck yeah, can't wait to see it! How are you keeping your voids open/clear of epoxy?


moving away from that due to time constraints but we were looking to do bamboo strips with a foam injection that would also dampen between the hex core.
7 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1533 - Karma: 4,347
Bakerpowanyone design their cores in catia? would love some tips on using catia to create cores and using the prismatic/surface machining if ANYONE has any experience in catia... have access to a cnc shopbot and would love to create a taper on the tip and tail, ideally do some sort of triangle taper into the core where the tip spacer will be placed.


You can do a full curved taper if you wanted. I've used solidworks before, not that they are the same (but they are made by the same company). What I did was model the core with no taper, model my taper into a separate piece and subtract the two from each other to get the final result. I believe it's called a boolean operation in Catia or some shit like that, youtube will have tutorials on it. Not sure what plug-in you use for getting g-code or what your cnc runs off of, but the z plane curve can be a total bitch to do depending on your machine. You can also just use the taper model to create a planer sled if you think the cnc might blow out your cores.

There is some work involved, and if you are stressed for time I'd suggest you just make a planer sled out of ply and hardboard, works just as well if you are careful and is much faster.
7 years ago
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,468
PoikenzYou can do a full curved taper if you wanted. I've used solidworks before, not that they are the same (but they are made by the same company). What I did was model the core with no taper, model my taper into a separate piece and subtract the two from each other to get the final result. I believe it's called a boolean operation in Catia or some shit like that, youtube will have tutorials on it. Not sure what plug-in you use for getting g-code or what your cnc runs off of, but the z plane curve can be a total bitch to do depending on your machine. You can also just use the taper model to create a planer sled if you think the cnc might blow out your cores.

There is some work involved, and if you are stressed for time I'd suggest you just make a planer sled out of ply and hardboard, works just as well if you are careful and is much faster.



Yeah that was my thinking, subtract my desired finished core from the stock of wood and then trasnfer to shopbot. machine is 3 axis and runs off g-code, i just export from catia into xlm and upload that to the shopbot. did you create a machining toolpath or just subtract the two pieces and export that file?

I have some experience in solidworks too, but have been solely in catia for this class.

We have a planar sled but i was going to try and cnc out pockets potentially or copy something similar to how black diamond does there cores by removing more wood in certain areas. it's part of the course to use the CNC and g-code. the z axis got me on my first go round for sure.
7 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1533 - Karma: 4,347
BakerpowYeah that was my thinking, subtract my desired finished core from the stock of wood and then trasnfer to shopbot. machine is 3 axis and runs off g-code, i just export from catia into xlm and upload that to the shopbot. did you create a machining toolpath or just subtract the two pieces and export that file?

I have some experience in solidworks too, but have been solely in catia for this class.

We have a planar sled but i was going to try and cnc out pockets potentially or copy something similar to how black diamond does there cores by removing more wood in certain areas. it's part of the course to use the CNC and g-code. the z axis got me on my first go round for sure.


In the attached image I kind of laid out my process: 1. Make taper profile 2. Make sidecut profile (The tip and tail obviously aren't needed, but I don't have a saved profile of just the core's sidecut) 3. Overlay them and create a cavity/ subtract one from the other 4. final product.

You always have to make tool paths. Unfortunately I don't have an example, but you will probably have to make a shit ton. General rule is to cut no more than 3mm depth at a time (I'm sure you're aware), you can go less if need be.

Some machines don't want to move in the x,y, and z axis all at the same time, and some plug-ins aren't able to code it either. So if you are running your tool path off of the edge of your final product (step 4) your cnc will be doing just that. A good work around is to do one object, say your taper, then run your sidecut file right after without moving anything. If you want to run a single program, have an extra object beside your final that has the same taper but no sidecut and set up your taper to run off that line. You also have to worry about losing your suck since it will be thin, and blowouts because you are probably using hardwood.
7 years ago
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razors-chaz
Posts: 2255 - Karma: 1,250
I thought I would pitch in on this cnc chat. I've used a cnc to cut my cores from the beginning. I started modelling my cores in Autodesk Inventor until I got a macbook and started using Fusion 360 and AutoCAD. I draw out the taper profile on cad (for accuracy and ease) and the plan shape of the finished cut core I then put these two views together using an extrude function and cut to make the finished model . I don't cut the sidecut on the cnc as I use hardwood sidewalls & plain rectangular sheets of fibres and it just makes the layup harder to line up. I cut the sidewall profile in the core after layup when i trim the flashing.
Using the CNC i tend to work with a program called V Carve which takes the 3d model from fusion/inventor and creates the 3d cut g code for the cnc which does both the taper profile and the plan shape in one cut.
I also cut the base material on the cnc using a dxf drawing, v carve generated 2d gcode, which i know is a bit of a contentious way of doing it because the heat from the spindle speed and feed rate could warp the base material. others cut a piece of mdf to the base shape and use a hand trimmer to cut the base. (see on3p's insta for pics/vids)
If anybody wants more info on how I do my cnc work pm me.
7 years ago
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Yung_Gnarley
Posts: 9096 - Karma: 3,071
bump. there's gotta be someone on here who's making their own sticks rn
4 years ago
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Vtsnowski
Posts: 3554 - Karma: 1,396
Yung_Gnarleybump. there's gotta be someone on here who's making their own sticks rn


I still make em
4 years ago
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FaunaSkis
Posts: 630 - Karma: 6,846
I’ve not made as many myself lately as I would like but I’ve a new prototype pair of fatter, softer, park skis in the works, the Omni, I’m working on. Just need to laser the topsheet and they’re good to lay up.

Also it’s not me making but I’ve a limited sample run of shorter Alparkas in production at the factory.
4 years ago
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oldspicewalrus
Posts: 153 - Karma: 352
I'm making my own pair of skis right now and I am having trouble cutting my base material to my template, I want to try and use my jigsaw but it is proving to be difficult, and I want to avoid purchasing a router if I can any suggestions?
4 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1533 - Karma: 4,347
oldspicewalrusI'm making my own pair of skis right now and I am having trouble cutting my base material to my template, I want to try and use my jigsaw but it is proving to be difficult, and I want to avoid purchasing a router if I can any suggestions?

Buy a used router, trim routers are the best for bases as they are smaller and easier to use. You can usually find one for $20 depending on where you live. I've tried the utility blade method that is posted somewhere in this thread but it doesn't work nearly as well. Cut your bases as close to layup as possible to help avoid warping.
4 years ago
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FaunaSkis
Posts: 630 - Karma: 6,846
oldspicewalrusI'm making my own pair of skis right now and I am having trouble cutting my base material to my template, I want to try and use my jigsaw but it is proving to be difficult, and I want to avoid purchasing a router if I can any suggestions?

I would honestly say a laminate trimmer/palm sized router is a tool worth investing in. Less expensive than a full router, a little more manoeuvrable and really useful when it comes to trimming the skis when you get to finishing them if you have the right bits.



If it’s just the one pair for now and a trimmer is beyond your budget it might be worth seeing if somebody you know has a router. It’s the kind of tool a home improver would buy but not use much.
4 years ago
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