Quiver killers, yay or nay for riding hard & park?

Following this thread, need answers

Pretty sure they are stronger than traditional mounting. I‘ve never rode them but I’ve always wanted to switch to them.

One thing that always intrigued me is that quiver kills paired with pivots so any problems you normally have with pivots, if you fuck up the brake you can simply unscrew and rescrew the heelpiece without a remount, would be a little bit of a hassle to setup initially but seems like it could work well
edit: sorry I didn't answer your question at all

**This post was edited on Apr 18th 2020 at 9:09:01pm

I put quiver killers in the heel holes on my park skis so I can swap out my pivot brakes easily in case I break them. So far I havent noticed any difference from a traditional mount except I need to re-tighten the screws every so often cause I havent picked up any thread locker yet

Quiver killers are a stronger mount than a regular mount. That said they’re also a pain in the ass to mount so be warned I’ve seen shops charge $10 per hole to mount quiver killers, so your looking at a $160 mount which isn’t exactly cheap and makes it not worth it the majority of the time. Additionally you need different screws than the standard ones that come with the bindings, and all the screws need to be checked semi frequently.

so yea they’ll hold up fine, but its expensive in some places to have it done.

I have a fairly good drill press at work, and have access to a template, also fairly used to metal working and drilling/tapping, so would do it myself, I have trust issue, but also yeah not paying $160, can get a jester for that new theese days.

For the pairs I've used the insert system on i've never had a problem with pull-outs, the bigger threads and epoxy mount is stronger but, with that extra strength in the mount, if you do manage to pull out the binding, your skis are toast. The size of the hole it would pull is well beyond any sort of repair that would compensate for the structural damage to the core.

As for how difficult it is and the cost for a shop to do it, the way I managed the costs while still getting an accurate mount was to have my local shop just drill using their jigs as if they were going to do a traditional mount but not put the bindings on*. I paid normal mount price for this as its the set up and accurate drilling which is the major part of the mount cost. I then did the binding freedom mount myself, overdrilling the shop's holes and tapping them. It's best to do a few dry run 2x4 insert mounts without epoxy to get used to the tapping as, depending on your ski construction and the core wood, its easy to over-thread the holes. It's time consuming but worth it to save on bindings.

* I understand this might not be an option for some with shops charging high costs for mounts already and having strict poilcies about skis they touch needing complete mounts. You could always just let them do the full mount and back their mount out carefully once its done. I was friendly with my local shop & tech and so they were cool with it as they knew I wouldn't come back to them if something eventually went wrong with the mount after I insert drilled them.

One season when I was low on cash I used quiver killers to get away with using one pair of skis for park and touring. Swapped between a pair of STHs and Dynafits. Worked surprising well but changing the bindings day-to-day could be a pain in the ass. The inserts themselves are super strong, i've never talked to anyone that has had an issue.

I have had heli coils pull out of a ski which ended the ski's life. IDK if thats the same thing as quiver killers but I wouldn't risk it.

QKs and BFs have a higher pull out strength than your standard alpine screws when properly installed. They are a great option if you want to want to swap one pair of bindings between skis or use several bindings on one ski. EXTREME precision is needed when drilling your skis and tapping the holes. If not done properly the inserts will spin or not line up with the holes on your binding.

A few test mounts on a scrap 2x4 is necessary to get comfortable on the process. Do it yourself too, don’t spend a heap of money getting it done at a shop only to have them mess it up. Long cure epoxy(24hr+) is the best option for sealing your holes.

Also take the time to read the TGR thread before attempting, there’s a ton of good info on there.

As mentioned, binding freedom inserts are considerably more robust of a mount than a normal mount with wood screws and I highly doubt you'd ever be able to pull one out. If you have access to a drill press, paper templates can easily be more accurate than a jig if you center punch the holes and go slow. Need to be very meticulous without a drill press to keep the drill straight.

Inserts are awesome and work well. Just takes time and you need to be efficient at setting up bindings. Pivots without an adjustable AFD are nice, and you usually don't need to re-adjust forward pressure when swapping bindings. Attacks are nice too with the tab forward pressure system.