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So yesterday was a rough day to say the least. I've got some nasty coreshots here. The first is about 2 inches long. the second is about a foot long in total but I split it up into two pics since there is some base left in the middle. Obviously these skis are toast but I would like to finish the season on them. Think I could get away with ptex myself or should I take em into a shop looking for more extreme measures? (would be nice to not have to pay)
i would use ptex since i'm cheap. a friend of mine had a coreshot in his snowboard which we fixed with some ptex. we fixed it in january and it's still going strong. he snowboards about 3-5 times a week
Your skis definitely aren't toast and could easily last longer than the end of the season, they just need some major TLC.
If you're confident to do it yourself/intent on not spending money, it would be worth putting a little epoxy in the bottom of the gouges that have gone through the fibreglass, and filling up to height the end of the gouge next to edge with epoxy/metal grip (p-tex doesnt grip steel edge) and then p-tex over the gouges. This means the core wont be exposed to moisture if the p-tex plucks out. If you're doing it yourself, dripping in p-tex candle then scraping, this is more likely.
Honestly from the looks of the rest of the bases in the pics, it seems to me you could do with a full service and repair by a shop, and you might get through early season next winter on them aswell.
FaunaSkisYour skis definitely aren't toast and could easily last longer than the end of the season, they just need some major TLC.
If you're confident to do it yourself/intent on not spending money, it would be worth putting a little epoxy in the bottom of the gouges that have gone through the fibreglass, and filling up to height the end of the gouge next to edge with epoxy/metal grip (p-tex doesnt grip steel edge) and then p-tex over the gouges. This means the core wont be exposed to moisture if the p-tex plucks out. If you're doing it yourself, dripping in p-tex candle then scraping, this is more likely.
Honestly from the looks of the rest of the bases in the pics, it seems to me you could do with a full service and repair by a shop, and you might get through early season next winter on them aswell.
Alright thanks. And yeah, when I said these skis were toast you guys couldnt see the rest of them haha
QuaffHoly shit man where do you get screwed over for $80 base welds? Every shop I have been to is $15-20
I took it to my shop and they were charging $10 an inch plus $70 for a tune. I just ended up filling it with epoxy instead of dropping over 200. After that, combined with some ptex and a wax, the sticks aren't lookin bad
QuaffHoly shit man where do you get screwed over for $80 base welds? Every shop I have been to is $15-20
If the shop aren’t hacks and do custom basewelds instead of shitty stamps and do a proper job of cutting it out that shit takes time. But looks and lasts better.
-SnowSnoli-If the shop aren’t hacks and do custom basewelds instead of shitty stamps and do a proper job of cutting it out that shit takes time. But looks and lasts better.
Yeah chalet sports in Bozeman is a bunch of "hacks" dude. They do a better job than any $80 service.
Definitely take something like that to a shop, since they will have the resources to get that fixed properly. You will need to add a base/metal weld material to the core (epoxy will also work if you score it afterwards), you need a stronger material to fill it to protect the core. These materials dont hold wax, so you would finish with ptex over it. The reason that you want to take it to a shop is that the ptex drip sticks you can buy for cheap are mostly paraffin wax, so they aren't as durable (but easier to use for diy fixes). If a shop does a ptex job, they use a material closer to the original base material, which bonds better, accepts wax better, and is more durable. It just has to be pushed through a ptex gun, to heat it to the higher temp it needs to melt and bond properly.
The shop that I used to work at would charge $60 for a repair like that, which includes all base fixes, and the tune/wax afterwards. I know its tempting to go the route of the cheap fix, but it never lasts long and cracks out, exposing the core to water and making the damage worse in the long run. I would just take it to a shop if I were you.
Blake.PDefinitely take something like that to a shop, since they will have the resources to get that fixed properly. You will need to add a base/metal weld material to the core (epoxy will also work if you score it afterwards), you need a stronger material to fill it to protect the core. These materials dont hold wax, so you would finish with ptex over it. The reason that you want to take it to a shop is that the ptex drip sticks you can buy for cheap are mostly paraffin wax, so they aren't as durable (but easier to use for diy fixes). If a shop does a ptex job, they use a material closer to the original base material, which bonds better, accepts wax better, and is more durable. It just has to be pushed through a ptex gun, to heat it to the higher temp it needs to melt and bond properly.
The shop that I used to work at would charge $60 for a repair like that, which includes all base fixes, and the tune/wax afterwards. I know its tempting to go the route of the cheap fix, but it never lasts long and cracks out, exposing the core to water and making the damage worse in the long run. I would just take it to a shop if I were you.
My shop was asking for around 200 so I just filled em with epoxy myself. Ive had six days on them since and it’s working great. I was planning on replacing these at the start of next season anyways so it doesn’t need to be too long term.
