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TWoodsHaha yep, 5 of those photos are from a 2 hour drive that I woke up to do as the sun was coming up. It was one of the best mornings of the trip. So dark as the sun was coming up didn't think we would get any light, but there were a couple good moments, then we hit Ballyaglisha and the sun just exploded through the clouds. I attached a panorama I shot on my digital camera.
Dingle's a cool place. And that drive is incredible. This guy in waterford saw my camera and told me that I HAD to drive it.
Two days before before I had gone to Skellig Michael (which was incredible) but got SO FUCKING SEASICK on the 6 foot swells we were ripping through to get there that I almost didn't make the hike, and felt like shit the whole rest of the day and part of the next day driving to Dingle. If you haven't been, going to Skellig is worth every dollar you spend to get there, even if you get sick like me.
Sick man. I'm glad you enjoyed the drive. It's hard to convey what a mind blowing area that is to my friends back home. Most people don't picture ireland to be so dramatic. That's a wicked pic of back West and the three sister's. The headland on the left is where they recreated skellig Michael fofor star wars.
Speaking of skelligs. Holy shit. That place is insane. Must see for anyone. We booked in march for the end of august and it was the only spot open for the year. I hear you on the swell man. It was the morning after a massive 4 day storm. 10 ft swell and blue bird.
Check out @dinglepeninsulatourism on IG. All the photos except the credited ones are mine. A lot taken with a super takumar 50/1.4 on a a6000
hemlockjibber8Sick man. I'm glad you enjoyed the drive. It's hard to convey what a mind blowing area that is to my friends back home. Most people don't picture ireland to be so dramatic. That's a wicked pic of back West and the three sister's. The headland on the left is where they recreated skellig Michael fofor star wars.
Speaking of skelligs. Holy shit. That place is insane. Must see for anyone. We booked in march for the end of august and it was the only spot open for the year. I hear you on the swell man. It was the morning after a massive 4 day storm. 10 ft swell and blue bird.
Check out @dinglepeninsulatourism on IG. All the photos except the credited ones are mine. A lot taken with a super takumar 50/1.4 on a a6000
That's awesome! I like the photos a lot man! How did you get hooked up with that gig? Do you have photos from Skellig somewhere?
I've got a bunch of photos from Dingle, if you ever need anything extra for your job you can tell your bosses that you talked me into giving you shots for free. Haha.
TWoodsThat's awesome! I like the photos a lot man! How did you get hooked up with that gig? Do you have photos from Skellig somewhere?
I've got a bunch of photos from Dingle, if you ever need anything extra for your job you can tell your bosses that you talked me into giving you shots for free. Haha.
Thanks! I wrote a proposal to create the position and they accepted it. I've got a few shots on Skellig Michael on my personal account (@hipsterpix) but not the tourism one as it's not in our region.
I'd be down for showcasing some of your shots and giving you love. It's always nice to get a fresh angle and featured contributor. hit me up at marketing (at) dingle-peninsula.ie and we can get this thread back on track
Just bought a Fujicam 35 Auto-M for $10
Its a steal.
I checked it in the thrift shop to see if all the parts worked, they did.
Got home, cleaned it up, started to put the film in, went to do the first crank to secure the film in the slot anddddd.... the advance lever stopped working. Its jammed and I don't really want to go through the effort to open up the camera for that. It was only $10 anyway but I was bummed cause it was raining out and I was really excited to test it out with some shots of the farm down the street. The sky was really dramatic and with the cows lying down it would have been cool. I would have brought my rebel sl1 to take a few digital photos but by the time I realized it wasnt working and tried to look up a solution for it it was too late.
That kind of left a bad first impression for film for me but I think I'm gonna pick up a Pentax K100 or a Canon AE-1, something thats rugged and easy to repair, for my first cam.
I do have some nikon manual f lenses so does anyone reccomend a nikon slr for ~$50 that I can pick up on ebay? Thanks
Ascent_CinemaJust bought a Fujicam 35 Auto-M for $10
Its a steal.
I checked it in the thrift shop to see if all the parts worked, they did.
Got home, cleaned it up, started to put the film in, went to do the first crank to secure the film in the slot anddddd.... the advance lever stopped working. Its jammed and I don't really want to go through the effort to open up the camera for that. It was only $10 anyway but I was bummed cause it was raining out and I was really excited to test it out with some shots of the farm down the street. The sky was really dramatic and with the cows lying down it would have been cool. I would have brought my rebel sl1 to take a few digital photos but by the time I realized it wasnt working and tried to look up a solution for it it was too late.
That kind of left a bad first impression for film for me but I think I'm gonna pick up a Pentax K100 or a Canon AE-1, something thats rugged and easy to repair, for my first cam.
I do have some nikon manual f lenses so does anyone reccomend a nikon slr for ~$50 that I can pick up on ebay? Thanks
I picked up a Nikon FE2 and it's been awesome. Simple, rugged and my lenses work with it. Currently have my 50mm/1.8 on it.
Ascent_CinemaI do have some nikon manual f lenses so does anyone reccomend a nikon slr for ~$50 that I can pick up on ebay? Thanks
Off topic, Do you use adapters to bring those lenses over to your digital camera? I'm surprised at the amount of people that didn't know you could do that. $20 goes a long way and those manual lenses are great to use on digital cameras.
hemlockjibber8Off topic, Do you use adapters to bring those lenses over to your digital camera? I'm surprised at the amount of people that didn't know you could do that. $20 goes a long way and those manual lenses are great to use on digital cameras.
Ya I use a canon ef- sony e mount for my Sony FS100. Then I use a nikon-canon adapter to get my manual lenses on.
Anyone have a nikon FM? Thoughts on it? Currently deciding between that and a Pentax k1000
I've owned both and they are both great cameras. I prefer the nikon glass, but its also a little more expensive. That being said some of the pentax glass is phenomenal as well. I'd go for the k1000 just because they tend to cost less and are more easily available.
So I got ahold of an EOS 630 that I'd like to put a few rolls through shooting some skiing. Anyone else shoot skiing on film much and have any tips or film type suggestions? I figure something with a good dynamic range that can handle the harsh whites of snow would be best? I haven't shot film basically since I got into photography years ago so I'm quite the noob.
What I'm most stoked on is that I can use some of my lenses on it (I normally shoot on a T3i) and can easily shoot both at the same time.
CheddarJackSo I got ahold of an EOS 630 that I'd like to put a few rolls through shooting some skiing. Anyone else shoot skiing on film much and have any tips or film type suggestions? I figure something with a good dynamic range that can handle the harsh whites of snow would be best? I haven't shot film basically since I got into photography years ago so I'm quite the noob.
What I'm most stoked on is that I can use some of my lenses on it (I normally shoot on a T3i) and can easily shoot both at the same time.
Most negative film is going to have excellent dynamic range and should handle snow just fine. Slide film will be less forgiving, especially with highlights like snow in direct sun. The autofocus on your 630 may not be as quick as your t3i but you can work around that if you have too. I'd start with a low ISO color negative film (portra 160 and Ektar come to mind) and just see what you get.
Photography has really taken a backseat in my life but I'm headed to Glacier NP, Nelson BC, Banff, and Canmore for spring break and for the first time in my life I wont be focused on skiing all day every day for the break so hopefully I'll be inspired enough to lug around my 30lb pack and dust my RZ67 for some medium format goodness. Sucks that film developing costs twice as much at the one photo shop in Bozeman as it did in Denver, also now realizing that I left my negative binders and my scanner usb cable in Denver.
Ascent_CinemaJust bought a Fujicam 35 Auto-M for $10
Its a steal.
I checked it in the thrift shop to see if all the parts worked, they did.
Got home, cleaned it up, started to put the film in, went to do the first crank to secure the film in the slot anddddd.... the advance lever stopped working. Its jammed and I don't really want to go through the effort to open up the camera for that. It was only $10 anyway but I was bummed cause it was raining out and I was really excited to test it out with some shots of the farm down the street. The sky was really dramatic and with the cows lying down it would have been cool. I would have brought my rebel sl1 to take a few digital photos but by the time I realized it wasnt working and tried to look up a solution for it it was too late.
That kind of left a bad first impression for film for me but I think I'm gonna pick up a Pentax K100 or a Canon AE-1, something thats rugged and easy to repair, for my first cam.
I do have some nikon manual f lenses so does anyone reccomend a nikon slr for ~$50 that I can pick up on ebay? Thanks
I can attest to the fact that the pentax k100 is a beast, been using mine for several months of hard wear and not a single problem yet. Super durable and takes some sick shots with my 50mm.
No.QuarterPhotography has really taken a backseat in my life but I'm headed to Glacier NP, Nelson BC, Banff, and Canmore for spring break and for the first time in my life I wont be focused on skiing all day every day for the break so hopefully I'll be inspired enough to lug around my 30lb pack and dust my RZ67 for some medium format goodness. Sucks that film developing costs twice as much at the one photo shop in Bozeman as it did in Denver, also now realizing that I left my negative binders and my scanner usb cable in Denver.
The RZ is no joke to carry, about six months ago I bought a GW690iii from fuji and it is the perfect medium format camera to carry around. I haven't spent a ton of time in Bozeman but F11 has a good reputation for quality work and their prices are pretty much in line with most small town labs. Support your local lab because it'll by a sad day if they die. I only know of three labs in the state of Montana anymore, and F11 is the only one that still wet prints the majority of their work. If you do decide to shoot some film I'd strongly recommend Velvia, or Portra 160 if you don't want to have to mail shit out (I'm assuming your in bozeman).
84westThe RZ is no joke to carry, about six months ago I bought a GW690iii from fuji and it is the perfect medium format camera to carry around. I haven't spent a ton of time in Bozeman but F11 has a good reputation for quality work and their prices are pretty much in line with most small town labs. Support your local lab because it'll by a sad day if they die. I only know of three labs in the state of Montana anymore, and F11 is the only one that still wet prints the majority of their work. If you do decide to shoot some film I'd strongly recommend Velvia, or Portra 160 if you don't want to have to mail shit out (I'm assuming your in bozeman).
I kinda wish I would have got something like the Pentax 67 or something smaller in 645 format, but I actually really love the RZ, the negs are huge and the weight makes me slow down my process and it makes a glorious booming KA-THUNK noise. I'm just bitching because I had a really cheap shop in Denver and I'm also a broke college kid now. I got a roll of Pan f 50 and some acros 100 for MF and a couple rolls of hp5 for 35mm for the trip
No.QuarterI kinda wish I would have got something like the Pentax 67 or something smaller in 645 format, but I actually really love the RZ, the negs are huge and the weight makes me slow down my process and it makes a glorious booming KA-THUNK noise. I'm just bitching because I had a really cheap shop in Denver and I'm also a broke college kid now. I got a roll of Pan f 50 and some acros 100 for MF and a couple rolls of hp5 for 35mm for the trip
Hey guys! Yesterday I just picked up a Pentax SP1000 with a 55mm 1:2 and a 135mm 1:3.5 as my first film camera. I just had questions about some things!
1. What would be good black/white and color film to use? What sets apart "good', expensive film from "bad", cheap film?
2. Wasn't able to find anything on web for this: What battery will fit and work in my Pentax SP1000? Where can I find one?
3. What are some do's and don'ts of film photography? (Camera care, camera settings, etc.)
4. I have a red filter, yellow filter, and green filter for black and white film, should I use them? What difference do they make?
5. What places are good to get film developed? Is "at-home" developing "better"?
6. Can I make a digital copy of my film to post online with an at-home printer/scanner?
rballs_Hey guys! Yesterday I just picked up a Pentax SP1000 with a 55mm 1:2 and a 135mm 1:3.5 as my first film camera. I just had questions about some things!
1. What would be good black/white and color film to use? What sets apart "good', expensive film from "bad", cheap film?
2. Wasn't able to find anything on web for this: What battery will fit and work in my Pentax SP1000? Where can I find one?
3. What are some do's and don'ts of film photography? (Camera care, camera settings, etc.)
4. I have a red filter, yellow filter, and green filter for black and white film, should I use them? What difference do they make?
5. What places are good to get film developed? Is "at-home" developing "better"?
6. Can I make a digital copy of my film to post online with an at-home printer/scanner?
Thanks! +K to helpful advice!
1. I am a big fan of Kodak Portra for color negative, Fuji Velvia for slide (or color positive), and the Ilford Delta as well as Fuji Acros films for black and white. The difference between expensive films and cheap films is generally their dynamic range, grain characteristics, and color rendition. Better films have better color overall and better detail in highlights and shadows (with the exception being slide film, but if you're just learning i'd stay away from slide for a little while because if you don't get your exposure dead on you're pretty much fucked.
3. Do experiment with different films to see what you like. Do try overexposing slightly to increase shadow detail. Do shoot as much as you can reasonably afford to. Do make sure your leader has caught the first few times you load the camera, nothing sucks more than getting a blank roll back from the lab because your film didn't advance. Don't rely on your cameras light meter alone for exposure at first, with older cameras the meters are often off to some degree. Check the meter against one of the free phone apps or a digital camera if you have one to figure out how accurate it is. Do support your local camera store and photo lab, they're dying off quickly and it will be a sad day if film dies because no one can afford to process it commercially.
4. Color filter influence contrast and light transmission in different ways. Red filters are useful when shooting in Bright sunlight in order to darken the sky. Here's Ilford's write up on it: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=45 The role of filters in film photography (color and black and white) is important and something that is well worth your time to read up on.
5. Support your local lab if you have one. Home developing black and white is super easy, color a little more difficult but not to much. I do my black and white at home and my color at the lab I work at. If you do decide to home develop I'd recommend starting with black and white to get a good understanding of the process.
6. You need a scanner that has the ability to backlight your film in order to scan it. A good basic starting point would be an Epson v600. You should also be able to have your film scanned at time of developing if you do have a lab process it.
Most importantly shoot as much as you can because there's no other way to get better.
Holy hell, I went to the local photo shop here to drop off some film and I was gonna buy some film but they charge $15 for a roll of 35mm HP5.
can anyone give me some rough estimates of the cost of everything I need to do my own developing and cost of chemicals and how long they last, etc. And any items that can be cheaped out on or DIY-ed
No.QuarterHoly hell, I went to the local photo shop here to drop off some film and I was gonna buy some film but they charge $15 for a roll of 35mm HP5.
can anyone give me some rough estimates of the cost of everything I need to do my own developing and cost of chemicals and how long they last, etc. And any items that can be cheaped out on or DIY-ed
Budget around 100-200 dollars to get started. You can reuse your chemistry and once in solution it will keep for around a month (store everything in the dark if possible). I reuse fixer and stop both, but not developer because I get my chemicals at cost through work and a liter of HC110 will last me and a friend of mine for 4-6 months and a couple hundred rolls. You pretty much only need Developer, Stop Bath, Fixer, a wetting agent, some graduated cylinders to mix chemistry in, a thermometer and a dev tank. Depending on where you live you might be able to use tap water but distilled water from the grocery store is a safer bet. I use a gralab timer but a phone works just as well. home developing doesn't really save you a lot of money until you have all of the non chemistry items you need and you are shooting a good amount of film. Black and white film is stupidly easy to develop and learning how to do it will help you understand techniques like push and pull processing as well as how different films and developers interact to create grain characteristics.
Stoked to have shot my first full roll of film. I've shot before but never a full 24 pictures on a roll. Unfortunately I have to wait until september when I get back in school to get it developed.
Ascent_CinemaStoked to have shot my first full roll of film. I've shot before but never a full 24 pictures on a roll. Unfortunately I have to wait until september when I get back in school to get it developed.
Ascent_CinemaIt's part of my summer work for AP Photo so we're not allowed to develop before I get back
actually not a bad idea.
i purposefully never develop my colour films until after a year (unless there's something on there that I know I want right away)
I find it really helps detach myself from the photos and allows me to critic them more.I won't be thinking about what I shot them on or what the environment was, just the raw finished product and it allows me to be more critical of the content.
I don't do this with black and white - mostly because I blast through it like candy since it's so cheap to shoot and devo
I've pretty much been shooting hp5 as my go-to for years now.. with a bit of tmax100 and pan 50 thrown in there now and then.. but I think I found a new fav...
Ultrafine XTREME.
This stuff is awesome and so affordable. I picked up a 10 roll variety pack from them for like 30 bucks, just to try, and I've loved it so far. Develops real easy both with basic stuff like D76 or stand developing with rodinol, and pushes really well - especially their 400 t-grain stuff.
I'm about to buy a couple 100' Rolls and have them shipped here to Australia. This film is bad ass.
Really interesting how the cyan/blue/green tones are so prevalent in the shot with the grass and the city skyline. Although yes the film is known for rich blue tones, the level of saturation seems unique to me. Perhaps something to do with the shadows? I shoot a lot of photos in the desert, so the contrast between the blue sky and the earth tones of the desert land kind of balance themselves differently. Love em all regardless, Jaime!
I'd like to keep it under $300 for the tripod and head but I can go more especially for something reasonably lightish and compact for hiking (fully understanding it will take a fairly heavy tripod).
I was going back through some old scans and rediscovered this. Almost thinking I should start shooting 6x6 again. We have a beautiful Hasselblad 501 at work that's tempting, but I have much more responsible purchases to make photography wise that would actually help me with work...
**This post was edited on Oct 4th 2017 at 5:32:12pm
