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jcado you still have your Yashica Mat? I know theyre pretty different cameras but which do you prefer shooting with?
Wish I could justify a Mamiya 6 but it's not in the cards right now.
Yeah, I do. Really love that camera, and I'll definitely never get rid of it. Theres something awesome about shooting through a big old WLF, and its perfect for sneaky street shooting with the quiet leaf shutter. I actually prefer shooting a TLR to a rangefinder.
The only thing I really don't like about it is its optically not even in the same league as the Mamiya lenses, but for the price I can't complain. It still pretty much blows away any 35mm camera though. The meter on mine also died after about 6 months, but I have a little Sekonic meter that I don't mind carrying around. The frame spacing is also somewhat inconsistent.
If you're just getting started in MF, I'd definitely pull the trigger on one. Its a super fun camera to shoot and I've gotten some of my favorite images with it.
plorrTheres something awesome about shooting through a big old WLF, and its perfect for sneaky street shooting with the quiet leaf shutter. I actually prefer shooting a TLR to a rangefinder.
Despite its sex appeal, I just couldn't get past the impracticality of shooting a WLF in journalistic scenarios.
Laurent.Canonet QL17, Olympus XA, so many choices.
zbphotoI would get a canonet giii ql17 if your looking to try out a rangefinder. Avoid the Electro 35, Bessa's are okay but you might as well just get a user M2 or M4(p/-2) for not that much more.
Ended up getting the Canonet from Bmo on here, loving it so far. Now to choose a scanner so I can ditch my shit DSLR scanning rig...
I really want to get into film photography for a few reasons. #1 I think it will be a fun experiment after years of shooting digital and doing my post process in LR. #2 I think it will allow me to shoot a different "look" that can't exactly be achieved with digital. #3 I think the slower process and cost for each frame will force me to think about my shots and take my time.
When I see other people getting into film photography they go out and but and AE-1 with the attached 50mm and just use that as it is. I have a good collection of EF lenses and I am buying some fully manual Zeiss Contax lenses as an investment for photography and cinematography (which I will be adapting to EF mount). That being said, I just want to buy an older EOS film body and use that with everything I have. I can pick up a Rebel G body off of Keh for less than $20 and have the same manual control as one of those older SLRs, and be able to use all my current lenses.
Is there anything wrong with this logic? Am I just going to miss out on looking like a 16 year old girl at a music festival?
SkaliwagifyIs there anything wrong with this logic? Am I just going to miss out on looking like a 16 year old girl at a music festival?
Thanks
Yes.
It's not just the medium it's also the gear that matters. Nice tiny brass marvels of mechanical engineering, everything manual. Shooting with 80-90's autobaby's is boring.
It's not just the medium it's also the gear that matters. Nice tiny brass marvels of mechanical engineering, everything manual. Shooting with 80-90's autobaby's is boring.
I certainly appreciate the aesthetic of these cameras, but practicality plays a part as well. Hopefully, I will be shooting on mostly manual lenses anyway in the near future. Shooting with a plain body draws less attention from street subjects and probably keeps the thieves away. I feel like there is a disconnect where film shooters say "it's not about the camera" (since they all do the same thing), but this is somehow different? I just want to have a film body and a digital body I can keep in my bag for the sake of variety.
I feel like it has been a while since I've been on here which shows the sad fact that I have hardly been shooting at all, but I'm excited to be getting out soon on a roadtrip to Zion and Moab and wherever else we decide to stay along the way.
In my excitement for that I realized that I haven't done any troubleshooting with my RZ67 that I thought was jammed the last time I used it way back on spring break. I was fiddling around with it on my desk in frustration and while I hopelessly sat there surfing photo forums and owners manuals, I was absently playing with my OM-1 and listening to the beautiful sound of its watch-like mechanical shutter I looked across the room. Under a pile of school papers and my copy of Ansel Adams: The Camera I spotted my trusty multi meter and realized my idiocy and that despite my need for an external meter the RZ67 does in fact need a battery for it's electrical shutter. Rather unsurprisingly the battery read a measly 1.34 volts. God I feel dumb.
SkaliwagifyI am buying some fully manual Zeiss Contax lenses as an investment for photography and cinematography (which I will be adapting to EF mount).
Are you converting them to EF using Leitax mounts or are you just using regular Fotodiox adapters or whatever? If you're not permanently converting them why don't you just buy an old Contax or Yashica body and shoot with that?
plorrAre you converting them to EF using Leitax mounts or are you just using regular Fotodiox adapters or whatever? If you're not permanently converting them why don't you just buy an old Contax or Yashica body and shoot with that?
I am converting them to EF with Leitax mounts to be more versatile. I certainly don't have the money to buy a whole set, so as I buy them one at a time I need to be able to use them on whatever camera I own or rent at the time. EF is a very versatile mount and I don't think it is going anywhere soon.
SkaliwagifyI am converting them to EF with Leitax mounts to be more versatile. I certainly don't have the money to buy a whole set, so as I buy them one at a time I need to be able to use them on whatever camera I own or rent at the time. EF is a very versatile mount and I don't think it is going anywhere soon.
Yeah I actually own a set that I converted to EF with Leitax mounts as well. Definitely a really good option for an affordable set of primes for video that have great mechanics and optics and really nice character.
If you can't use your manual focus glass for film photography, I would suggest just buying a fixed lens rangefinder.
plorrYeah I actually own a set that I converted to EF with Leitax mounts as well. Definitely a really good option for an affordable set of primes for video that have great mechanics and optics and really nice character.
If you can't use your manual focus glass for film photography, I would suggest just buying a fixed lens rangefinder.
Oh cool! Which ones do you have? Can you give me a bit more on your experience with them/how you're using them? Not to get off topic of the thread.
SkaliwagifyOh cool! Which ones do you have? Can you give me a bit more on your experience with them/how you're using them? Not to get off topic of the thread.
I have the 25 2.8, the 50 1.4, and the 85 1.4. I also have a zf 35 f2 to fill in the gap because the C/Y 35 1.4 is really expensive (I'll get one some day).
I bought these custom 3D printed focus gears from followfocusgears.com, which are really nice and pretty affordable. Also got 80mm fronts from Cordvision.com with push-on caps, and got them declicked by RPLens.com. Basically they're fully cine-modded for less than half the price of what Duclos would have charged.
I've only had them a couple weeks, and I've been using them on an a7s. I mostly shoot narrative, commercials, and music videos these days so I decided it was time to invest in a solid set of matching primes. I haven't shot anything serious with them yet, but just from fucking around testing them I love the whole set. They're really solid and smooth mechanically; they all have 180 degrees or more of focus throw. Optically, they're not quite as sharp or perfect as modern zeiss glass or even L primes, but they're plenty sharp for my liking and I personally prefer the little bit of vintage character and warm color tone. They do still have that T* coating though, so they flare really nice and have that sexy Zeiss microcontrast, especially stopped down a bit.
If you're gonna invest in a decent set of primes for video, I'd say either C/Y Zeiss or Leica R glass is the way to go unless you can afford CP.2s or Schneider Xenons or something. The ZFs and ZF2s are nice but the Nikon focus rotation drives me nuts. I can't wait until I have the money to replace my ZF 35 f2 with a C/Y 35 1.4.
plorrI have the 25 2.8, the 50 1.4, and the 85 1.4. I also have a zf 35 f2 to fill in the gap because the C/Y 35 1.4 is really expensive (I'll get one some day).
I bought these custom 3D printed focus gears from followfocusgears.com, which are really nice and pretty affordable. Also got 80mm fronts from Cordvision.com with push-on caps, and got them declicked by RPLens.com. Basically they're fully cine-modded for less than half the price of what Duclos would have charged.
I've only had them a couple weeks, and I've been using them on an a7s. I mostly shoot narrative, commercials, and music videos these days so I decided it was time to invest in a solid set of matching primes. I haven't shot anything serious with them yet, but just from fucking around testing them I love the whole set. They're really solid and smooth mechanically; they all have 180 degrees or more of focus throw. Optically, they're not quite as sharp or perfect as modern zeiss glass or even L primes, but they're plenty sharp for my liking and I personally prefer the little bit of vintage character and warm color tone. They do still have that T* coating though, so they flare really nice and have that sexy Zeiss microcontrast, especially stopped down a bit.
If you're gonna invest in a decent set of primes for video, I'd say either C/Y Zeiss or Leica R glass is the way to go unless you can afford CP.2s or Schneider Xenons or something. The ZFs and ZF2s are nice but the Nikon focus rotation drives me nuts. I can't wait until I have the money to replace my ZF 35 f2 with a C/Y 35 1.4.
Same. Haha. I have been reading a bunch on Reduser and everyone there says about the same. I want to invest in solid glass that is fully manual, will last, focuses the right way, and covers full frame. I'm going to start with the 50 1.4 and 28 2.8. I'm planning on shooting narrative work, music videos and some photography. Where did you buy yours? I'm checking Keh almost everyday.
SkaliwagifyWhere did you buy yours? I'm checking Keh almost everyday.
I got them all on KEH. They usually have all the more common/cheaper ones. I've never seen the 35 1.4 or the 21mm though which are supposed to both be top notch.
What are some good developing labs? I live in central MA and all the 1 hour photo places ship somewhere destroy negatives, at this point I don't see many other options other then shipping my rolls somewhere else. I would love to develop my own stuff but I'm going into college now and won't really have room for it or the money.
w_skierWhat are some good developing labs? I live in central MA and all the 1 hour photo places ship somewhere destroy negatives, at this point I don't see many other options other then shipping my rolls somewhere else. I would love to develop my own stuff but I'm going into college now and won't really have room for it or the money.
I'm taking a photography class in the fall and looking for a new film camera, something that is more compact/convenient than my Pentax spotmatic (aka something that can stay in my backpack. I'll still use my spomatic for most things). Basically an everyday carry or something I can easily take with my digital gear for the sudden urge to use film. My favorite focal length is about 28mm so I'm looking for something around there (maybe as high as 35 but not above).
I was thinking the Olympus xa4. Looks like a good option but the class requires a camera with adjustable settings (aka fully manual). Any other options?
Blake.PI'm taking a photography class in the fall and looking for a new film camera, something that is more compact/convenient than my Pentax spotmatic (aka something that can stay in my backpack. I'll still use my spomatic for most things). Basically an everyday carry or something I can easily take with my digital gear for the sudden urge to use film. My favorite focal length is about 28mm so I'm looking for something around there (maybe as high as 35 but not above).
I was thinking the Olympus xa4. Looks like a good option but the class requires a camera with adjustable settings (aka fully manual). Any other options?
Blake.PI'm taking a photography class in the fall and looking for a new film camera, something that is more compact/convenient than my Pentax spotmatic (aka something that can stay in my backpack. I'll still use my spomatic for most things). Basically an everyday carry or something I can easily take with my digital gear for the sudden urge to use film. My favorite focal length is about 28mm so I'm looking for something around there (maybe as high as 35 but not above).
I was thinking the Olympus xa4. Looks like a good option but the class requires a camera with adjustable settings (aka fully manual). Any other options?
TWoodsOlympus OM-1
OM-1 and the Pentax ME-super are both quite compact. I think the Olympus 28mm 3.5 is usually quite cheaper than most pentax wide angles, its my favorite lens.
Blake.PI'm taking a photography class in the fall and looking for a new film camera, something that is more compact/convenient than my Pentax spotmatic (aka something that can stay in my backpack. I'll still use my spomatic for most things). Basically an everyday carry or something I can easily take with my digital gear for the sudden urge to use film. My favorite focal length is about 28mm so I'm looking for something around there (maybe as high as 35 but not above).
I was thinking the Olympus xa4. Looks like a good option but the class requires a camera with adjustable settings (aka fully manual). Any other options?
Lomosluts will wrap their lips around your bellend the instant you pop this badboy out.
STOKED. learned to print a few days ago and spent like 4 hours in the darkroom yesterday printing 8x10's from b&w negatives i developed myself. despite a few mistakes throughout the process, I'm hooked. this is so much fun and so much more rewarding than digital. definitely gonna invest in the stuff to do this when the class is done (or at least develop, idk about printing for now because of the space i need for equipment)
also, how much harder is color developing and printing compared to black and white? and how hard would it be to put together a sketchy dark room (with or without printing) at home?
Blake.Palso, how much harder is color developing and printing compared to black and white? and how hard would it be to put together a sketchy dark room (with or without printing) at home?
Developing colour is fairly easy, but in my opinion the results with a paterson tank aren't as good as a pro lab (unless you have a Jobo or other temp controlled processor). Hand made c-prints while amazing are a huge bitch, I wouldn't touch it.
zbphotoDeveloping colour is fairly easy, but in my opinion the results with a paterson tank aren't as good as a pro lab (unless you have a Jobo or other temp controlled processor). Hand made c-prints while amazing are a huge bitch, I wouldn't touch it.
awesome thanks. while the results may not be as good it will be significantly more cost effective so ill probably give it a shot eventually.
Just bought a beautifully kept and used Mamiya RB67 Pro-S w/ Sekor 4.5/65mm and Sekor 3.8/90mm, 2x 120 backs and 1x 220 back for $300. Stoked. Oh and came with the converter to attach a Polaroid back someday...
Headed to explore Japan in a couple days. Can't wait to use it.
goodiepocketJust bought a beautifully kept and used Mamiya RB67 Pro-S w/ Sekor 4.5/65mm and Sekor 3.8/90mm, 2x 120 backs and 1x 220 back for $300. Stoked. Oh and came with the converter to attach a Polaroid back someday...
Headed to explore Japan in a couple days. Can't wait to use it.
^Good price. If you follow Tokyo Camera Style on insta he is always posting about gallery shows and camera stores that you should check out while you are there.
Does anybody make a full frame UWA similar to the Tokina 11-16 for around the same price? I'm trying to shoot skating that will mostly end up on Instagram so I'm not worried about top-notch optics.
What's everyone's favorite "grocery store" film? I like Fuji Superia because it has those punchy greens. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative to tri-x?
I'm looking to try some other weird fringe film stocks. Has anyone used CineStill 800T?
lIllIWhat's everyone's favorite "grocery store" film? I like Fuji Superia because it has those punchy greens. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative to tri-x?
I'm looking to try some other weird fringe film stocks. Has anyone used CineStill 800T?
I've been shooting Kodak Gold in my buddies Stylus Epic and its nice. Cinestill is rad. For B&W Kenmore 400 and the Arista (Fomapan) films are cheap, but I don't particularly like either.
zbphotoI've been shooting Kodak Gold in my buddies Stylus Epic and its nice. Cinestill is rad. For B&W Kenmore 400 and the Arista (Fomapan) films are cheap, but I don't particularly like either.
What don't you like about the Arista stuff?
I've used Kodak Gold but it's not for me; I'm not a big fan of warm colors.
lIllIWhat's everyone's favorite "grocery store" film? I like Fuji Superia because it has those punchy greens. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative to tri-x?
I'm looking to try some other weird fringe film stocks. Has anyone used CineStill 800T?
The only films I have been able to find at grocery stores by me is Gold 200, 400 and BW400cn.
I really like Gold 200 for how cheap it is. I don't like 400 as much because it is little bit more expensive and the grain just isn't as nice as 200.
BW400cn is just kinda meh, it looks to me like just a de-saturated color photo
JakeSmithThe only films I have been able to find at grocery stores by me is Gold 200, 400 and BW400cn.
I really like Gold 200 for how cheap it is. I don't like 400 as much because it is little bit more expensive and the grain just isn't as nice as 200.
BW400cn is just kinda meh, it looks to me like just a de-saturated color photo
Portra is the only warm film I'm willing to tolerate, and even then I'd gladly give that up if 400h wasn't so expensive. Gold and Arista are on my shit-list.
As for B&W - might just stick with Tri-X for a bit since FindLab charges $30 to develop B&W, so if I'm going to develop myself I might as well use a good film. Red filter + push to 1600 here we go...
On a side note, is it possible to home scan 35mm without a Pakon or shitbed scanner yet? It's pretty much the only thing keeping me from shooting B&W...
lIllIOn a side note, is it possible to home scan 35mm without a Pakon or shitbed scanner yet? It's pretty much the only thing keeping me from shooting B&W...
There is that one old kodak one that scans through a whole roll at once. I think zbphoto or balto had one. I have a v600 and I like it, I don't know why people hate on flatbeds or pakons other than they are time consuming, I get some pretty high quality scans in my noob opinion.
