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One ski mounted backwards, could almost see the confusion here if there wasn't a number right under foot. They also waxed them after I asked for them not to be, and they tuned my edges, when I asked for a detune. Not the biggest deal in the world especially the waxing part. Just frustrated
You mounted that shit backwards u need full money reimbursement or just remount them and forget about it. I’ve never noticed a difference after remount
piss_boyDidn't mean to sound like I was just wining in this thread. Just wanted to see what people thought the shop should do
take all responses with a grain of salt, "if that happened to me, i'd _______" posts are generally a little dramatic
but yeah they boned you and i agree you should get something out of it esp since they're a chain. politely but firmly explain how bad they fucked up--
- backward mount is an egregious mistake (but i think you should leave it as is unless they buy you new skis which i doubt)
- they need to fix that screw
- tuning your edges was not a huge deal but is a pain in the ass for you
- the waxing is no issue at all, only a possible gain for you
at the very least they should be fixing the screw (idk if i'd trust them for the detune at this point) and refunding you entirely
the thing is, they've taken a lot of value out of the skis. they and you are lucky they're symmetrical skis so you can leave em as is, which is what i would do. but the question is how do they try to make up that value to you?
It’s a big issue with sloppy techs. Luckily, it’s usually pretty easy to fix yourself. But OP, I wouldn’t touch it because that shop needs to help you out so you need to leave skis as you received them.
I complained to a shop about a base grind recently. Sent them an email and photos and just said “Hey I paid for a base grind. Can you fix the rest?”. They happily obliged. Mistakes happen. Techs are human.
As a tech that mounts skis on the daily, this is just ridiculous. They owe you a pair of skis forsure, but you can easily fix that heelpiece. The ski being backwards is fucked though, guy mustve been on the sauce and didn't give a shit. I wouldn't feel bad shitting on a shop that has zero respect for your equipment and safety
The problem is he glued the shit out of it so it won't move
BradFiAusNzCoCaIt’s a big issue with sloppy techs. Luckily, it’s usually pretty easy to fix yourself. But OP, I wouldn’t touch it because that shop needs to help you out so you need to leave skis as you received them.
I complained to a shop about a base grind recently. Sent them an email and photos and just said “Hey I paid for a base grind. Can you fix the rest?”. They happily obliged. Mistakes happen. Techs are human.
Won’t move out? The initial seal may take a little pressure but that’s why people use wood glue - so that screws can be removed. If it won’t screw more in, could be a hole that’s not deep enough. If it won’t come out, could mean he used epoxy, etc. So he could have stripped the hole then tried to cover his tracks
LippamaniThe problem is he glued the shit out of it so it won't move
DensecloudsAre there any expert techs out there - perhaps someone from @Tyroliabindings that can answer this question about the slight rise in the heel piece?
I've also literally seen this on every pair of tyrolias i've owned, even when mounted by a reputable tech
Basically it looks like it isn't flush with the topsheet because the screws are tightening down the main structure of the binding, and not the plastic casing surrounding it.
Even when the binding is mounted perfectly, the casing of many bindings (most notably Attacks) leave a ~1mm gap between it and the topsheet. Just bad design, and looks awfully similar to a shit mount.
I'm not a "binding expert", but i do my certs every year and mount skis erryday. so take it as you will
DensecloudsAre there any expert techs out there - perhaps someone from @Tyroliabindings that can answer this question about the slight rise in the heel piece?
I've also literally seen this on every pair of tyrolias i've owned, even when mounted by a reputable tech
I have 4F Deadbolt 13s that were mounted in 2016. They have been slightly up for the whole time and its been great. Maybe it’s intentional but idk. Best i can think of is its for the flex of the ski?? Maybe the plastic is less elastic than the skis so they make this lil buffer.
You can see in person if the screw housing is flush with the ski, that’s the part that matters. The plastic always floats a little
tdolloBasically it looks like it isn't flush with the topsheet because the screws are tightening down the main structure of the binding, and not the plastic casing surrounding it.
Even when the binding is mounted perfectly, the casing of many bindings (most notably Attacks) leave a ~1mm gap between it and the topsheet. Just bad design, and looks awfully similar to a shit mount.
I'm not a "binding expert", but i do my certs every year and mount skis erryday. so take it as you will
piss_boyAt first I thought they charged us for it but they didn't so definitely nothing wrong with a free wax
Okay word, that's what I figured but you never know. I could see somebody being anti wax or something so was trying to see what was up. Hope you get everything sorted out!
theabortionatorWhat's wrong with a wax? Unless it was spendy and a price thing. Just curious if you genuinely didn't want wax in general
I tell my shop not to wax when mounting new skis because I want a BP wax on before a glide wax. I also dont really want universal on certain skis. I enjoy waxing tho so that also ties into it.
The issue with Attack heels being sometimes raised is that the back two screws are getting stuck on the metal housing holes that are tight to prevent movements when shipped. Attacks come shipped with heels in the track and those 2 rear screws partially in which holds the heel in place and prevents the screws from loosening. Looks like this.
So those screws are removed to then slide off the heel and then you mount just the sliding track and brake portion. The issue is those rear holes have a small initial opening which the threads can catch and not allow the screw to fully go into the ski yet they feel tight.
You need to slightly enlarge those rear holes by either a drill bit or even tightening/loosening those screws a few times before actually mounting so the screw head can easily go flush to the metal track without force.
Then when actually mounting to the ski, the screw will easily pull the metal track hole flush to the top sheet. Plastic should be pretty flush too but can vary a bit.
Forgot to mention that I’ve seen shops not use Posi 3 bits and use Phillips instead which will also not allow you to properly tighten those rear screws before stripping etc.
This has happened on my look Spx, griffons, and wardens Is it normal?
DensecloudsAre there any expert techs out there - perhaps someone from @Tyroliabindings that can answer this question about the slight rise in the heel piece?
I've also literally seen this on every pair of tyrolias i've owned, even when mounted by a reputable tech
DensecloudsAre there any expert techs out there - perhaps someone from @Tyroliabindings that can answer this question about the slight rise in the heel piece?
I've also literally seen this on every pair of tyrolias i've owned, even when mounted by a reputable tech
They were last on here a year ago. Dont hold your breathe for a reply 😆
Greg_KWhen actually mounting to the ski, the screw will easily pull the metal track hole flush to the top sheet. Plastic should be pretty flush too but can vary a bit.
This is a great tip. Should be a PSA sent to every shop that mounts Tyrolia, basically what matters is getting the 4 metal contact points flush. It's easy to check by shining a phone torch under the binding. Unless that's the case, you're looking at binding pullouts.
BradFiAusNzCoCaYou can see in person if the screw housing is flush with the ski, that’s the part that matters. The plastic always floats a little
I've had attacks before and have noticed this, there was actually only one screw that wasn't pulled in all the way on the ski, that happened to be the first one I looked at to lol.
Tyrolia also needs a PSA for properly adjusting AFD height as well as it’s rarely done properly either.
The tech manual describes “lifting the tip of the boot” before adjusting AFD height clearance but few techs seem to be trained to do that. You have to pull back HARD on the boot cuff to wheelie the toe to eliminate any slack and THEN adjust the AFD height.
The one benefit of the Attack2 AFD is that it moves up and forward, so you can visually see if it’s low or not properly adjusted. The 2 screw heads in front of the silver AFD should be 1/3 to 1/2 covered by the AFD when adjusted properly. When adjusting Attack2 bindings, I raise the AFD until the screws are around 1/4 or so covered and then start testing with the boot in as I know it’s going to be at least that height.
The OP AFD is clearly low as well so that’s another thing that wasn’t done right on the job.
Do these need a remount? Tyrolia attack 12 on line SFB.
Greg_KTyrolia also needs a PSA for properly adjusting AFD height as well as it’s rarely done properly either.
The tech manual describes “lifting the tip of the boot” before adjusting AFD height clearance but few techs seem to be trained to do that. You have to pull back HARD on the boot cuff to wheelie the toe to eliminate any slack and THEN adjust the AFD height.
The one benefit of the Attack2 AFD is that it moves up and forward, so you can visually see if it’s low or not properly adjusted. The 2 screw heads in front of the silver AFD should be 1/3 to 1/2 covered by the AFD when adjusted properly. When adjusting Attack2 bindings, I raise the AFD until the screws are around 1/4 or so covered and then start testing with the boot in as I know it’s going to be at least that height.
The OP AFD is clearly low as well so that’s another thing that wasn’t done right on the job.
Don’t need to be remounted, just a 30 sec adjustment on the AFD height on the toe and maybe a retry on those rear 2 screws on the heel. A Phillips would work in a pinch on the AFD height as there isn’t as much pressure needed on that screw to raise it up and then get the shop to redo those two rear screws if you don’t have the tools or don’t feel comfortable doing it. As you’ve seen on this thread, it’s pretty common issue.
I’ll repost the AFD adjustment as others may need it too.
You need to raise the AFD by turning the screw on the lower part of the front of the toe just up from the ski itself clockwise to raise it.
I usually raise the AFD so that it starts covering the screw heads above the AFD by about 1/4 before even starting to testing because I know it’s going to be at least that high.
Place the business or thin gift card over the AFD with it sticking out from the side enough to grab and then click the boot in. Now grab the rear cuff of the boot and pull it back HARD to “wheelie” the boot toe and eliminate any slack. Now test to see how easy it is to move that card under the toe. You want to move it high enough that even while pulling back on the rear cuff, the business/gift card is grabbing or resisting between the boot and AFD.
You usually end up being around 1/3 to 1/2 of that screw head covered after adjustment.
Warning-If you don’t feel comfortable with doing this yourself, get the shop to redo the heels but listing the needed steps to fix the issue at your own risk.
To fix the heel issue, you would need to slide off the heel(wider straight screwdriver twisting under the silver metal tab to lock it in the “free” position) and remove the 4 screws by hand with a Posi 3 screwdriver. Enlarge those 2 rear screws holes in the track(or at least work them a bit more with the screw), clean up the topsheet of glue residue etc and place new waterproof glue in all 4 holes. Now hand tighten them down with your Posi 3. Should now be much tighter to the top sheet.
In many cases, just hand removing the 2 rear screws(after working them up a down a bit so they aren’t catching anymore), adding new waterproof glue to the holes and then retightening with your Posi 3 will get them tight to the top sheet.
Slide the heel back onto the track until it hits the raised heel of your boot in the binding and then snap the silver lever down so it clicks into the notch. Click into the binding and make sure the heel corner is lining up within the scribed area for proper forward pressure.
Thank you for the incredibly detailed response about how to fix it exactly. I really appreciate it. Cheers to you, Greg K.
Greg_K“Do these need a remount?”
Don’t need to be remounted, just a 30 sec adjustment on the AFD height on the toe and maybe a retry on those rear 2 screws on the heel. A Phillips would work in a pinch on the AFD height as there isn’t as much pressure needed on that screw to raise it up and then get the shop to redo those two rear screws if you don’t have the tools or don’t feel comfortable doing it. As you’ve seen on this thread, it’s pretty common issue.
I’ll repost the AFD adjustment as others may need it too.
You need to raise the AFD by turning the screw on the lower part of the front of the toe just up from the ski itself clockwise to raise it.
I usually raise the AFD so that it starts covering the screw heads above the AFD by about 1/4 before even starting to testing because I know it’s going to be at least that high.
Place the business or thin gift card over the AFD with it sticking out from the side enough to grab and then click the boot in. Now grab the rear cuff of the boot and pull it back HARD to “wheelie” the boot toe and eliminate any slack. Now test to see how easy it is to move that card under the toe. You want to move it high enough that even while pulling back on the rear cuff, the business/gift card is grabbing or resisting between the boot and AFD.
You usually end up being around 1/3 to 1/2 of that screw head covered after adjustment.
Warning-If you don’t feel comfortable with doing this yourself, get the shop to redo the heels but listing the needed steps to fix the issue at your own risk.
To fix the heel issue, you would need to slide off the heel(wider straight screwdriver twisting under the silver metal tab to lock it in the “free” position) and remove the 4 screws by hand with a Posi 3 screwdriver. Enlarge those 2 rear screws holes in the track(or at least work them a bit more with the screw), clean up the topsheet of glue residue etc and place new waterproof glue in all 4 holes. Now hand tighten them down with your Posi 3. Should now be much tighter to the top sheet.
In many cases, just hand removing the 2 rear screws(after working them up a down a bit so they aren’t catching anymore), adding new waterproof glue to the holes and then retightening with your Posi 3 will get them tight to the top sheet.
Slide the heel back onto the track until it hits the raised heel of your boot in the binding and then snap the silver lever down so it clicks into the notch. Click into the binding and make sure the heel corner is lining up within the scribed area for proper forward pressure.
I am trying to put the yellow boots with the attacks but the toe part of the boot is so rounded out all around that I feel like the binding is only keeping the boot in from the side. The other boots are my brothers and since they are still newish they have a flat top that fits snug in the binding. Am I buggin because I've never had a wide binding before or will this work. Just wondering because there's no lip at the top of the binding. I hope this is understandable
I am trying to put the yellow boots with the attacks but the toe part of the boot is so rounded out all around that I feel like the binding is only keeping the boot in from the side. The other boots are my brothers and since they are still newish they have a flat top that fits snug in the binding. Am I buggin because I've never had a wide binding before or will this work. Just wondering because there's no lip at the top of the binding. I hope this is understandable
That yellow boot looks shot. There is a minimum spec for thickness on the toe in order to operate properly. How old are those boots?
I bought em used on eBay for $50 they came like that, they worked good for 2 years and now I'm due for new boots anyway. They still work good with my other bindings though
skiermanlol way to ruin your boots, you dumb fuck.
