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Just mounted these up and one of the toe pieces has a tiny gap no larger than a credit card but big enough to fit a polaroid photo. I am able to hit the front screws with the photo. Is this normal for fks bindings or should It be fixed. Im thinking to back out the screws, make sure they are drilled the right length, clean em up and re install with some wood glue. let me know what you guys think.
The toe screws are most likely not fully tightened. Did you mount them yourself?
Yes I mounted them myself with a jig and proper drill bit. I also made sure to screw them down as much as I could. My guess is that some wood shavings stayed in the hole and are preventing it from going down all the way as the other toe piece isn’t like this
**This post was edited on Nov 22nd 2021 at 7:48:22pm
Prince_PolloYes I mounted them myself with a jig and proper drill bit. I also made sure to screw them down as much as I could. My guess is that some wood shavings stayed in the hole and are preventing it from going down all the way as the other toe piece isn’t like this
**This post was edited on Nov 22nd 2021 at 7:48:22pm
on second thought listen to @hot.pocket I know nothing
Prince_PolloYes I mounted them myself with a jig and proper drill bit. I also made sure to screw them down as much as I could. My guess is that some wood shavings stayed in the hole and are preventing it from going down all the way as the other toe piece isn’t like this
**This post was edited on Nov 22nd 2021 at 7:48:22pm
Did you use a Pozi #3 screwdriver to hand tighten them?
hot.pocketDid you use a Pozi #3 screwdriver to hand tighten them?
Yes hand tightened as hard as I could without stripping the heads. Not exactly sure what a pozi #3 is but it was a large Phillips head screwdriver. The kind used at just about every shop
Prince_PolloYes hand tightened as hard as I could without stripping the heads. Not exactly sure what a pozi #3 is but it was a large Phillips head screwdriver. The kind used at just about every shop
Prince_PolloWould you recommend to remove the binding and try to eliminate the gap? Need some advice before I take these to the hill.
**This post was edited on Nov 22nd 2021 at 8:35:11pm
If you have a local shop that's chill I would have them take a look at it. Hard to determine over the internet honestly, but I wouldn't hand a pair of skis over to a customer if it had that gap after mounting.
hot.pocketIf you have a local shop that's chill I would have them take a look at it. Hard to determine over the internet honestly, but I wouldn't hand a pair of skis over to a customer if it had that gap after mounting.
Don’t really have a local shop other than buckmans :/
hot.pocketIf you have a local shop that's chill I would have them take a look at it. Hard to determine over the internet honestly, but I wouldn't hand a pair of skis over to a customer if it had that gap after mounting.
Talked to my buddy who works at a shop and he said if it’s under 1mm to not worry about it. My situation is about a 1/2 mm. What do you think?
Prince_PolloTalked to my buddy who works at a shop and he said if it’s under 1mm to not worry about it. My situation is about a 1/2 mm. What do you think?
Hard to say without getting hands on them but if you trust your boy then trust your boy.
Imo, bindings and mounts have to be done to a T. If there’s even a TINY mess up, I get mine looked at. Rather the drive to the shop than a ride to the hospital
Could be that when you drilled the hole it made a little volcano on the topsheet that is preventing the toe from sitting completely flat. I use a countersinking bit to clean up the holes after drilling so it sits flat, or you can use a razor blade or sharp chisel or something. That might not be it, but its a possibility
sambuswellCould be that when you drilled the hole it made a little volcano on the topsheet that is preventing the toe from sitting completely flat. I use a countersinking bit to clean up the holes after drilling so it sits flat, or you can use a razor blade or sharp chisel or something. That might not be it, but its a possibility
I think that is the cause as I turned the screws as much as they would go but one on them sits a bit higher then the rest. I think I am going to leave it as is. I spoke to a ski tech and he said that the gap is small enough to where it won’t create uneven pressure.
if you hold it up to the light, do you see light coming through between where the screws are. There are times when the outside edges of the plastic won't sit 100% flush all the way around but as long as you can't see light between the area where the screws are it shouldn't be an issue. If you do, then I'd have a shop take a look.
.nastyif you hold it up to the light, do you see light coming through between where the screws are. There are times when the outside edges of the plastic won't sit 100% flush all the way around but as long as you can't see light between the area where the screws are it shouldn't be an issue. If you do, then I'd have a shop take a look.
Yea there is light coming through you can actually see where the top sheet rose from the screw. Should I just remove the toe piece, file down the bumps, reinstall with new glue and live on? Only reason I haven’t done that yet is because I don’t want to weaken the threads if I don’t have to.
Prince_Pollo
Yea there is light coming through you can actually see where the top sheet rose from the screw. Should I just remove the toe piece, file down the bumps, reinstall with new glue and live on? Only reason I haven’t done that yet is because I don’t want to weaken the threads if I don’t have to.
Yeah I wouldn't be satisfied with that personally. If your glue is already dry, I'd take it completely off and redo it. If your holes look good and not volcano'd or anything, just maybe (carefully) give those screws another "hard" quarter turn when tightening.
There are some bindings (like the heel track on a marker or tyrolia) where it's very difficult to get it flush without practice, but usually pivot toes and heels go on pretty dang flush.
.nastyYeah I wouldn't be satisfied with that personally. If your glue is already dry, I'd take it completely off and redo it. If your holes look good and not volcano'd or anything, just maybe (carefully) give those screws another "hard" quarter turn when tightening.
There are some bindings (like the heel track on a marker or tyrolia) where it's very difficult to get it flush without practice, but usually pivot toes and heels go on pretty dang flush.
The glue already dried. Would you still recommend?
Prince_PolloThe glue already dried. Would you still recommend?
Yeah that’s fine. I meant that if it is you should take it completely off and redo, if it wasn’t you could just give er that extra quarter turn. Just worded it wrong.
.nastyYeah that’s fine. I meant that if it is you should take it completely off and redo, if it wasn’t you could just give er that extra quarter turn. Just worded it wrong.
Ok. After I file down the bumps should I countersink the existing holes with a chamfer bit?
Prince_PolloJust mounted these up and one of the toe pieces has a tiny gap no larger than a credit card but big enough to fit a polaroid photo. I am able to hit the front screws with the photo. Is this normal for fks bindings or should It be fixed. Im thinking to back out the screws, make sure they are drilled the right length, clean em up and re install with some wood glue. let me know what you guys think.
I dont know if people use a chamfer bit but definitely use a lot of wood glue.. Better to over do it. Lack of glue lets water in, rots the core and allows binding pull out. Definitely use wood glue.
Prince_PolloOk. After I file down the bumps should I countersink the existing holes with a chamfer bit?
No, just make sure the hole is flush with the rest of the topsheet. If there is extra topsheet material that is 'volcanoed', cut it flat with a razor blade.
