Holes for 5mm Larger BSL, Can I Run It With CAST?

Not sure about cast but I know pivots have 10mm of adjustability. It’s my understanding that cast doesn’t alter heel. You’re talking about 5mm change. Depends on where the heel is on the brake track (arms, rods or whatever it’s called) but you should be good in theory

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 12:36:52pm

Mounted my cast’s myself using a pivot jig in the shop I worked at. The pattern is the same as Pivot. Make sure when you are mounting the posts use the pivot toe piece plate to help guide your screws straight down into the ski, mine we a little off and made the toe piece a little finicky.

AddiMounted my cast’s myself using a pivot jig in the shop I worked at. The pattern is the same as Pivot. Make sure when you are mounting the posts use the pivot toe piece plate to help guide your screws straight down into the ski, mine we a little off and made the toe piece a little finicky.

What are you saying about using the toe piece to guide the screws in? If you use a jig you drill holes, put the bindings on, and drill the screws in. How do you manage to not drill them in straight

BradFiAusNzCoCaNot sure about cast but I know pivots have 10mm of adjustability. It’s my understanding that cast doesn’t alter heel. You’re talking about 5mm change. Depends on where the heel is on the brake track (arms, rods or whatever it’s called) but you should be good in theory

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 12:36:52pm

dope yeah, sounds like at least 10mm for sure. people seemed to agree in this thread https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/864852/Look-Pivot-adjustment-range

animatorWhat are you saying about using the toe piece to guide the screws in? If you use a jig you drill holes, put the bindings on, and drill the screws in. How do you manage to not drill them in straight

Because the cast uses towers to allow you to change the toe you don’t have the jig or binding on the ski when you screw the mounting screws in. The tolerance is very close so if the towers are even slightly angled the toe pieces will be tough to take on and off. I followed the instructions from Cast but would amend them only slightly to: when you are screwing in the towers after putting wood glue in your jig drilled holes, line the toe piece base up with the mounting holes and thread the towers in over top. If you haven’t mounted Cast bindings I understand how you think it would go in straight, I did too but mine were slightly off and I have never had that happen mounting regular bindings that have the plate against the ski.

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 11:00:51pm

AddiBecause the cast uses towers to allow you to change the toe you don’t have the jig or binding on the ski when you screw the mounting screws in. The tolerance is very close so if the towers are even slightly angled the toe pieces will be tough to take on and off. I followed the instructions from Cast but would amend them only slightly to: when you are screwing in the towers after putting wood glue in your jig drilled holes, line the toe piece base up with the mounting holes and thread the towers in over top. If you haven’t mounted Cast bindings I understand how you think it would go in straight, I did too but mine were slightly off and I have never had that happen mounting regular bindings that have the plate against the ski.

**This post was edited on Aug 25th 2021 at 11:00:51pm

oh you were talking ab the cast toe lmao I thought you were talking ab the pivot toe im dumb. Ive mounted cast but didnt put 2 and 2 together lol

You're good to go! I have a setup with CAST and my new boots were 5mm shorter, absolutely no problem