Switch from Shift to Cast Sytem

What was the failure mode on the shifts? Have pics?

What ski and where are the shifts mounted? You can almost always do a second mount with a different pattern you just might have to move up or back a cm or two.

mystery3What was the failure mode on the shifts? Have pics?

What ski and where are the shifts mounted? You can almost always do a second mount with a different pattern you just might have to move up or back a cm or two.

This. You can probably mount a Pivot you just may not be in the same spot. What failed w your Shifts? Haven’t had any issues with mine

Definitely a couple things to think about here. I would recommend going into the shop where you plan to get them mounted and talking to a tech to see which binding will have less interference with the current holes by placing the jigs on the ski. Then you need to consider when you want the skis ready to be back in action, there will likely be a long wait on CAST as they run out of stock very quickly if you weren’t on a pre-order. The Duke PTs do look pretty burly but I’m haven’t heard any reviews on them.

mystery3What was the failure mode on the shifts? Have pics?

What ski and where are the shifts mounted? You can almost always do a second mount with a different pattern you just might have to move up or back a cm or two.

Thank you for the fast answer!
I am skiing the Fischer Ranger 107Ti 182cm and mounted the shifts at the factory recommendation. Will the empty boreholes cause any problems later on?

The first day both toe pieces would not stay engaged and one brake popped off the ski (nothing broke! They can pop out the way they are built). I took both pieces out, put them together but the brake fell off again. My shop replaced both brakes and changed the windows of the toe piece (which now holds the front lever) and some other part in the toe piece.

After this it worked for 4 ski days and then one brake fell off again.

All in all I have been touring only easy terrain in Switzerland and had 4 major issues which I can't allow on advanced ski tours.

AGOFDefinitely a couple things to think about here. I would recommend going into the shop where you plan to get them mounted and talking to a tech to see which binding will have less interference with the current holes by placing the jigs on the ski. Then you need to consider when you want the skis ready to be back in action, there will likely be a long wait on CAST as they run out of stock very quickly if you weren’t on a pre-order. The Duke PTs do look pretty burly but I’m haven’t heard any reviews on them.

Thank you! Here in Switzerland, my shop has plenty of them in stock. I also can't find any long-term reviews on the Duke PT and I don't want to be the one to test them.

captainmcsendersThank you for the fast answer!
I am skiing the Fischer Ranger 107Ti 182cm and mounted the shifts at the factory recommendation. Will the empty boreholes cause any problems later on?

The first day both toe pieces would not stay engaged and one brake popped off the ski (nothing broke! They can pop out the way they are built). I took both pieces out, put them together but the brake fell off again. My shop replaced both brakes and changed the windows of the toe piece (which now holds the front lever) and some other part in the toe piece.

After this it worked for 4 ski days and then one brake fell off again.

All in all I have been touring only easy terrain in Switzerland and had 4 major issues which I can't allow on advanced ski tours.

what do you mean with not engaging? are they not locking out on tour mode or just not functional at all? the locking mechanism is really stiff at first and hard to get to the final full lock. i don’t know if that is what you’re referring to but it’s one thing that comes to my mind.
alao i remember reading somewhere that the brake can fall out if the forward pressure is too close to the front so that it doesn’t have enough plate under it but i’d assume that the shop knows what they’re doing and mount them with your boot to get it centered on the adjustment.

i use both shift and cast on my skis and feel solid on both. shift is too light for my liking in the resort so i went with cast on my stiffer skis and on the lighter one i have shift. cast can be really hard to get this time of the season!

the shifts are a touchy ferrari, the duke PT 16 is a friggin tank... so E 63 amg? or maybe even G63? very litttle finesse, just pure power



the duke PT 16 is a marker kingpin toe / alpinist toe layout, so very spread pattern, slightly wider than a regular royal



I just overlayed the duke pt and the pivot toes, the holes width wise is marginally different, but the kingpin has a longer pattern, but here is the important thing, the duke has the holes WAY forward with the same toe placement of a pivot.



I have a shift here... somewhere in a box, will see if I can find it

EDIT

I did grab a ski with shift on to compare though, the shift toe and pivot toe will be very close on hole patterns/length for same bsl mark, the duke pt will probably work better.



The duke PT 16 rear track and pivot rear is very different, the duke can be adjsuted 60mm!!!! (wtf) so you can just space the heel more rearward if there is interference.

**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2021 at 6:11:44pm

anders_athe shifts are a touchy ferrari, the duke PT 16 is a friggin tank... so E 63 amg? or maybe even G63? very litttle finesse, just pure power



the duke PT 16 is a marker kingpin toe / alpinist toe layout, so very spread pattern, slightly wider than a regular royal



I just overlayed the duke pt and the pivot toes, the holes width wise is marginally different, but the kingpin has a longer pattern, but here is the important thing, the duke has the holes WAY forward with the same toe placement of a pivot.



I have a shift here... somewhere in a box, will see if I can find it

EDIT

I did grab a ski with shift on to compare though, the shift toe and pivot toe will be very close on hole patterns/length for same bsl mark, the duke pt will probably work better.



The duke PT 16 rear track and pivot rear is very different, the duke can be adjsuted 60mm!!!! (wtf) so you can just space the heel more rearward if there is interference.

**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2021 at 6:11:44pm

You’re my favorite

anders_athe shifts are a touchy ferrari, the duke PT 16 is a friggin tank... so E 63 amg? or maybe even G63? very litttle finesse, just pure power



the duke PT 16 is a marker kingpin toe / alpinist toe layout, so very spread pattern, slightly wider than a regular royal



I just overlayed the duke pt and the pivot toes, the holes width wise is marginally different, but the kingpin has a longer pattern, but here is the important thing, the duke has the holes WAY forward with the same toe placement of a pivot.



I have a shift here... somewhere in a box, will see if I can find it

EDIT

I did grab a ski with shift on to compare though, the shift toe and pivot toe will be very close on hole patterns/length for same bsl mark, the duke pt will probably work better.



The duke PT 16 rear track and pivot rear is very different, the duke can be adjsuted 60mm!!!! (wtf) so you can just space the heel more rearward if there is interference.

**This post was edited on Jan 19th 2021 at 6:11:44pm

Thank you for the detailed answer!!1

captainmcsendersHi
I've broken my second shift binding and will never ever put my boot into one again. Do you know if I can mount a cast system or will the boring holes interfere? Would you maybe prefer a marker duke pt over the cast?
Thanks for your help

Just go with the cast, a ton of pro skiers use them for a reason. And ive seen your issue with the shifts before, also have seen wings crack and break too. Plastic is too unstable when temperature and high stress are involved. For that reason alone the CAST system is a step above the rest, metal on all high stress areas and simple to use.