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animatorIdeally you wanna be in the middle of the range, but if you weren’t supposed to use the whole range it wouldn’t be there yanno? If you rock an 8 you can do a Piv 18 and it’ll test out and everything, the 15 is just more ideal. If you can find an 18 for a little cheaper might as well go for it.
LazylightningDope dope, I guess another question then is can I use the existing 12 heelpieces I have with an 18 toe piece? Only asking because I plan on buying the 2nd kit and using the new bindings on one pair of skis, then sharing the toepieces between 2 skis but using the exist 12 heels I have....if that makes sense
anders_aisnt the new c clip in rear with gripwalk toe higher?
I know screws are longer, you need a 20mm for the rear heel now
anders_arear 2 holes in pivot heel has a C clip thingy or moon or whatever you wanna call it ( I think they actuall call it C)
I will grab calipers and some binders later to check
LazylightningDope dope, I guess another question then is can I use the existing 12 heelpieces I have with an 18 toe piece? Only asking because I plan on buying the 2nd kit and using the new bindings on one pair of skis, then sharing the toepieces between 2 skis but using the exist 12 heels I have....if that makes sense
animatorYou can buy shops won’t work on them because different “unmatching” toe and heel pieces fail safety automatically. If you know how to mount and adjust yourself, go for it
anders_abinding freedom/ quiver killer? or wont they touch that?
LazylightningMight pull a fast one and swap the heel pieces then adjust the forward pressure myself, I know how to mount but I don't have a jig so I'm hesitant
animatorYou could try and ask your shop to drill the holes for you (and pay them for it obviously) and then screw the heels and toes in yourself. Offer to sign a liability waiver so that the shop knows you won’t be suing if your heels rip out and you die!
CLQReally really not ideal, id recommend the 15s
LazylightningYea I think shelling out an extra 50 or so $ is worth it in the long run
LazylightningYea I think shelling out an extra 50 or so $ is worth it in the long run
anders_ayou can also do the binding freedom or quiver killer thing, and you can also just leave the brakes on , so it gives you quite a few options.
P15s will be best for you it sounds like, but you do find some deals on 18s.
JupitahJoshGonna go ahead and say that quiver killers with the cast is a major bitch. You have to set the threads on the toe so perfectly straight for the pin toe to work properly. I tried it on a pair of park skis, and it did not work how I hoped it would.
JupitahJoshYeah dude, not it. I just tried to unscrew my heel piece to swap on another ski and instead of unscrewing the screw I took the entire thread out. I used lock-title on the hardware and I guess it was stronger than the wood glue keeping the threads in....
anders_aisnt the new c clip in rear with gripwalk toe higher?
I know screws are longer, you need a 20mm for the rear heel now
Mr_pretzelThere is no difference in pivot heels, they have been the same across the range for the last 20 years basically.
Here’s a white 18 on the left and a new 15 on the right. Same rear screw length.
The difference with the GW afd is that the ramp angle is now 0* with no difference in height between the toe and heel(which sucks)