Whats the limit for shifts?

the limit of human will

Usually when I hit the rev limiter I know its time to shift.

Just crank them hoes to 13.

The limit is how shitty those bindings are

I've only had a couple days on my shifts, but at 10, I noticed no difference from any other bindings. I hit a couple 15ish ft drops onto slush and had no problems with them releasing. So as far as I can tell, they'll charge like anything else, and I wouldn't worry about riding them like a normal binding.

Look at what the Saloman riders are using them on. Cody Townsend, who was more or less responsible for the binding's creation, says he likes them more than alpine bindings and uses them for everything. However, he obviously knows exactly how to adjust them and gets a new one every year if not more often, so take that with a grain of salt. Apparently the key is adjustment, you need to get the forward pressure and afd height way more exact than most bindings, and readjust often. There have also been some anecdotes about the toe piece pulling out when the ski flexes too much underfoot.

I have never skied them, but my knowledge is that they are an excellent alpine binding if adjusted correctly, but definitely don't have the durability of something with more metal or less moving parts.

abar.Look at what the Saloman riders are using them on. Cody Townsend, who was more or less responsible for the binding's creation, says he likes them more than alpine bindings and uses them for everything. However, he obviously knows exactly how to adjust them and gets a new one every year if not more often, so take that with a grain of salt. Apparently the key is adjustment, you need to get the forward pressure and afd height way more exact than most bindings, and readjust often. There have also been some anecdotes about the toe piece pulling out when the ski flexes too much underfoot.

I have never skied them, but my knowledge is that they are an excellent alpine binding if adjusted correctly, but definitely don't have the durability of something with more metal or less moving parts.

Do you adjust the forward pressure and afd height like normal alpine bindings? I just got my Shifts and didnt even take them out of the box before taking them to the shop to get mounted so I haven't gotten to see how they work up close

ConesForBreakfastDo you adjust the forward pressure and afd height like normal alpine bindings? I just got my Shifts and didnt even take them out of the box before taking them to the shop to get mounted so I haven't gotten to see how they work up close

I've only held them briefly in a shop, haven't adjusted them. I'm going off the most recent blister gear 30 podcast with cody (which is a great listen). Basically what he says is that the adjustments are way more sensitive than most bindings and most shop techs don't have experience with them so they mess it up and thats why people pre-release

abar.I've only held them briefly in a shop, haven't adjusted them. I'm going off the most recent blister gear 30 podcast with cody (which is a great listen). Basically what he says is that the adjustments are way more sensitive than most bindings and most shop techs don't have experience with them so they mess it up and thats why people pre-release

Cool, thanks for the heads up!

abar.I've only held them briefly in a shop, haven't adjusted them. I'm going off the most recent blister gear 30 podcast with cody (which is a great listen). Basically what he says is that the adjustments are way more sensitive than most bindings and most shop techs don't have experience with them so they mess it up and thats why people pre-release

is there a guide anywhere on adjusting them or is trial and error the solutio here?

TRVP_ANGELis there a guide anywhere on adjusting them or is trial and error the solutio here?

It's included in the box. I think a lot of techs don't check their work, in this case popping the boot out and back in a couple times and double checking forward pressure and afd height and also not pulling up on the toe when adjusting and height.

I've heard also to always finish your afd height adjustment when raising the afd and not lowering. I can't remember which way the screw turns. Also just recheck after a few runs or days to make sure everything is where you want it to be.

I had two sets mounted in a reputable shop and neither was set properly although this was fairly early after the bindings were released and the shop may have not set up too many beforehand, not that lack of experience is a valid excuse in this case.

Edit to correct autocorrect replacement of "afd" with "and"

**This post was edited on Oct 30th 2020 at 11:08:48am

Not to hijack this thread, but does anyone know if there have been any changes to the binding since they released it 2 years ago? I couldn't find anything online so I assume that they have not changed it, but am unsure.

Clearly not rails as I watch Zach masi lay down some fucked shit on the lindley park rails on shifts 4 days ago

dwt802Clearly not rails as I watch Zach masi lay down some fucked shit on the lindley park rails on shifts 4 days ago

That dude was tearing it up

I think the limit is, how much of a beating do
you want to put down on your 500 dollar bindings

they were 300 all summer, so send it! :D

if your under 200lbs you shouldnt have issues imho when properly set up and checked. if not.. there is always cast and new duke PT 16. I've taken mine to jumps on BC100s in the park and they have stayed on, but... always kinda nervous.

ConesForBreakfastThat dude was tearing it up

Were you there homie?? it was crazy day

dwt802Were you there homie?? it was crazy day

Yeah! That was the day AHall was there right? First time I've hit Lindley and not fallen!
There must've been at least 30 people there it was a fat sesh

**This post was edited on Oct 31st 2020 at 9:07:29pm

I did almost an entire season on shifts as my do everything, inbounds alta and backcountry binding. For reference I'm 6'3, 180lb, 315mm boot sole length. I usually put my DIN at 10 in the toe, 10 or 11 in the heel. Here's my experience

For the first month and a half it was awesome. Lightweight, good elastic travel, it felt like a regular binding inbounds. Touring it was pretty good too, I didn't have any problems with the break lock or locking the pin toe, like some people have had. It would be nice to have had a second, higher heel lift for steeper ascents, but overall it was lightyears better than the frame bindings and alpine treckers that I was used to.

The first time I pre released was super random, I was totally in control and didn't even fall after losing the ski, just skied down a bit on one foot and stopped. I checked my binding, and realized that the toe height had dropped a little. Not a big deal, just once every week or so I had to lift the toe height up a bit, and it still felt fine. Still felt confident skiing it as aggressively as ever

Then it started happening more frequently, especially hitting moguls going fast. So I turned my DIN up a bit, and they seemed ok again for a while. However, I eventually had the DIN maxed out at 13, which is definitely not how tight I would put a regular alpine binding. They were still pretty good with them at 13 for a while, but I was getting nervous. In pow they were fine, but on harder moguls I was starting to doubt them.

Then, by mid march or so, they started to absolutely betray me on switch landings, nosebutters, hitting moguls hard, anything with a lot of forward torque on the heel piece. I still felt good touring on them, as long as the snow was soft and I wasn't going backwards they were legit. But I absolutely refused to ski them inbounds. The little cylinders on the wings of the toe piece were super dented, and the heel was throwing me out of the ski easier than a regular binding would with a DIN at like 8. I even binding tested them with a machine and sure enough, they were popping out of the heel way too easily, and the toe wasn't testing well either.

They were super fun for a while, and I think that if I made them a backcountry only binding they would have held up much longer, but it's not the one binding to rule them all they way they are marketed, at least not for someone my size. Overall, I think that for people who put their DIN at like 8 or lower they would be amazing as a do everything binding. However, for someone who needs a higher DIN, and who really abuses their equipment, they just didn't hold up to gnarlier abuse after a while. I legitimately don't know how their athletes do the things they do on them, I'm guessing that they make a sturdier 16 DIN option for the athletes but I don't know for sure.

For now, I think CAST is the way to go, but I did get to try the new marker duke pt for a day, and they seem promising, but I haven't had time to collect real data yet. Hope this helps!

Oh, and after reading the thread, LOL at all the people blaming shop employees. If your binding needs to be constantly adjusted, triple checked for forward pressure multiple times a season, and you have to pay attention to whether your last turn of the screw for the afd was up or down, thats a bad binding, not a bad employee.

wasatch_ratI did almost an entire season on shifts as my do everything, inbounds alta and backcountry binding. For reference I'm 6'3, 180lb, 315mm boot sole length. I usually put my DIN at 10 in the toe, 10 or 11 in the heel. Here's my experience

For the first month and a half it was awesome. Lightweight, good elastic travel, it felt like a regular binding inbounds. Touring it was pretty good too, I didn't have any problems with the break lock or locking the pin toe, like some people have had. It would be nice to have had a second, higher heel lift for steeper ascents, but overall it was lightyears better than the frame bindings and alpine treckers that I was used to.

The first time I pre released was super random, I was totally in control and didn't even fall after losing the ski, just skied down a bit on one foot and stopped. I checked my binding, and realized that the toe height had dropped a little. Not a big deal, just once every week or so I had to lift the toe height up a bit, and it still felt fine. Still felt confident skiing it as aggressively as ever

Then it started happening more frequently, especially hitting moguls going fast. So I turned my DIN up a bit, and they seemed ok again for a while. However, I eventually had the DIN maxed out at 13, which is definitely not how tight I would put a regular alpine binding. They were still pretty good with them at 13 for a while, but I was getting nervous. In pow they were fine, but on harder moguls I was starting to doubt them.

Then, by mid march or so, they started to absolutely betray me on switch landings, nosebutters, hitting moguls hard, anything with a lot of forward torque on the heel piece. I still felt good touring on them, as long as the snow was soft and I wasn't going backwards they were legit. But I absolutely refused to ski them inbounds. The little cylinders on the wings of the toe piece were super dented, and the heel was throwing me out of the ski easier than a regular binding would with a DIN at like 8. I even binding tested them with a machine and sure enough, they were popping out of the heel way too easily, and the toe wasn't testing well either.

They were super fun for a while, and I think that if I made them a backcountry only binding they would have held up much longer, but it's not the one binding to rule them all they way they are marketed, at least not for someone my size. Overall, I think that for people who put their DIN at like 8 or lower they would be amazing as a do everything binding. However, for someone who needs a higher DIN, and who really abuses their equipment, they just didn't hold up to gnarlier abuse after a while. I legitimately don't know how their athletes do the things they do on them, I'm guessing that they make a sturdier 16 DIN option for the athletes but I don't know for sure.

For now, I think CAST is the way to go, but I did get to try the new marker duke pt for a day, and they seem promising, but I haven't had time to collect real data yet. Hope this helps!

I'd guess that their athletes probably don't ski inbounds on them much, and also get a brand new pair at least once a season. They also probably baby them in terms of maintenance and just in general treating them gently.

wasatch_ratI did almost an entire season on shifts as my do everything, inbounds alta and backcountry binding. For reference I'm 6'3, 180lb, 315mm boot sole length. I usually put my DIN at 10 in the toe, 10 or 11 in the heel. Here's my experience

For the first month and a half it was awesome. Lightweight, good elastic travel, it felt like a regular binding inbounds. Touring it was pretty good too, I didn't have any problems with the break lock or locking the pin toe, like some people have had. It would be nice to have had a second, higher heel lift for steeper ascents, but overall it was lightyears better than the frame bindings and alpine treckers that I was used to.

The first time I pre released was super random, I was totally in control and didn't even fall after losing the ski, just skied down a bit on one foot and stopped. I checked my binding, and realized that the toe height had dropped a little. Not a big deal, just once every week or so I had to lift the toe height up a bit, and it still felt fine. Still felt confident skiing it as aggressively as ever

Then it started happening more frequently, especially hitting moguls going fast. So I turned my DIN up a bit, and they seemed ok again for a while. However, I eventually had the DIN maxed out at 13, which is definitely not how tight I would put a regular alpine binding. They were still pretty good with them at 13 for a while, but I was getting nervous. In pow they were fine, but on harder moguls I was starting to doubt them.

Then, by mid march or so, they started to absolutely betray me on switch landings, nosebutters, hitting moguls hard, anything with a lot of forward torque on the heel piece. I still felt good touring on them, as long as the snow was soft and I wasn't going backwards they were legit. But I absolutely refused to ski them inbounds. The little cylinders on the wings of the toe piece were super dented, and the heel was throwing me out of the ski easier than a regular binding would with a DIN at like 8. I even binding tested them with a machine and sure enough, they were popping out of the heel way too easily, and the toe wasn't testing well either.

They were super fun for a while, and I think that if I made them a backcountry only binding they would have held up much longer, but it's not the one binding to rule them all they way they are marketed, at least not for someone my size. Overall, I think that for people who put their DIN at like 8 or lower they would be amazing as a do everything binding. However, for someone who needs a higher DIN, and who really abuses their equipment, they just didn't hold up to gnarlier abuse after a while. I legitimately don't know how their athletes do the things they do on them, I'm guessing that they make a sturdier 16 DIN option for the athletes but I don't know for sure.

For now, I think CAST is the way to go, but I did get to try the new marker duke pt for a day, and they seem promising, but I haven't had time to collect real data yet. Hope this helps!

thanks for the helpful insight my guy. After hearing this imma stick with my decision to keep them for the pow days only.

wasatch_ratOh, and after reading the thread, LOL at all the people blaming shop employees. If your binding needs to be constantly adjusted, triple checked for forward pressure multiple times a season, and you have to pay attention to whether your last turn of the screw for the afd was up or down, thats a bad binding, not a bad employee.

amen rube goldberg shit
as a tech this is not what i ever want out of my personal binders
im stoked i can git done what i want to git done on a simple much lighter all metal 14 din tech binding that performed as i wanted in and outta bounds for multiple seasons and doesnt need to be fiddle fucked with