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air.bubbleBring it to a shop?
DolanReloadedLike seriously i bet alot of the times people have their ski binding rip out of their ski its because they used the wrong drill bit (too large) for the screw that holds the binding to hold in.
fuck
mystery3Check the topsheet of the ski, it should indicate bit size.
As far as the jig I think you're better off using a paper template as a DIY guy. One guy made a "jig" out of inch thick plexiglass that would at least help with bit walk and make sure the holes are straight up and down.
ChakaJigs only make sense if you are mounting hundreds of skis a year. They are usually hundreds of dollars (even used) and unless you have a jigerex with different plates, they only work for one mounting pattern. If you won’t mount your skis freehand with a paper template, then go to a shop. However, it’s not that hard to use a paper template. Unless your ski has metal in it, use a 3.6 mm bit. You can buy one of the ski specific, 3.6X9mm ones, which is nice since you don’t have to think about depth but you can use a plastic bit stopper or tape a 2$, 3.6mm bit at 9mm and it works. There is no better feeling than sticking it to the man and mounting your own skis to avoid paying 50$.
kalle.you could ask the shop to just drill your skis to your BSL and not put the bindings on. then you can use those holes to make a diy jig with wood or plexiglass and after that mount the bindings.
paper jigs also work, just measure so everything is straight. i mount pivots with an old race plate as our shops pivot jig is so old and doesn't fit skis over 90mm. we should really get one newer.
CatdickBojanglesAren’t your ARVs the ti’s?
DolanReloadedDoesnt the drill bit size need to exactly be the same size/spec That the screws that come with the binding are? Also how do u know jigs are hundreds of dollars? On google shopping and ebay the tyrolia jigs are like 50-80 bucks with free shipping. They all have numbers on them though like 92 or 88 or 94. Is that the year they were made or the max waist width of the ski that the clamps can stretch to?
Interesting.
DolanReloadedHaha yeah they are. Does that mean they need a special drill or something?
DolanReloadedBut wait, dont the screws come with the bindings? If the ski says to use 4.1mm bit but your binding comes with 3.6mm screws, if you used a 4.1mm bit the bindings would rip out pretty quickly. Did u mean the screws that come with the binding?
BiffbarfMake your own. It's not rocket surgery princeton boy
CatdickBojanglesYeah since there is a layer of metal you have to use a bit with a tap.
TRVP_ANGELdolan is what superior german engineering would refer to as "a manufacturing defect"
Chaka1. No, the drill bit is smaller than the screw since you thread the screw into the hole you drill with the bit. Why you need a 4.1mm bit for a metal ski is because metal is harder to thread with the screw, you could pull up your metal or titinal layer as you thread the screw if you have a hole that is too small and therefore it’s better to have a bigger bit size. For almost all wood core skis, 3.6 (a lot of people use 3.5 but it isn’t really different) is the correct bit size to comfortably thread the screw into the ski.
2. I’ve bought jigs. You usually buy them from reps and they often won’t sell them to non certified ski techs for obvious reasons. You can buy used jigs from shops sometimes if you know someone. They used to sell jigerex jigs, which had plates for different bindings but I don’t think they sell them to the public anymore.
3. It’s been years since I’ve seen a Tyrolia jig but the 92,94, 88 etc is referencing models you can mount with that jig. I think aaatack series is 92w (which should be up to 108 waisted ski and they sell a 92 fat for bigger skis). I’ve never bought a jig on eBay. If you buy a jig off eBay, there is no guarantee the seller knows what they are selling. Long story short, a paper jig will save you money, you won’t have to store it when you are done, with some patience you can be as accurate as a jig, and it’s really not that hard. Or pay 50$ for someone else to do it. A jig is overkill for mounting your own skis.
PoikenzLet me help you out.
1. YOU'RE AN IDIOT
2. You don't need a fucking jig to do one mount, the jig is $80 a shop is ~$50 to mount. WOW you save so much doing it yourself. If you still want a jig for Tyrolia attack 2's the 92W and 92 FAT will both work. 92w's max is 108mm, 92 FAT's min is 104mm.
3. If your ski has metal in it (yours do) use a drill bit with a 4.1mm diameter. AKA go to your local hardware store that isn't home depot and buy a drill bit that is 4.1 mm in diameter. You need to drill the holes at 9mm deep so buy a ruler*, measure out 9mm on your drill bit then wrap a piece of tape around it, that way you know when to stop drilling.You don't need a fancy single purpose Wintersteiger bit because you are going to pretend that you aren't a brain dead shop tech.
4. Buy wood glue that is labeled as being waterproof or water-resistant. A two-part epoxy also works well. If you don't want to spend a lot I recommend hardman's double bubble for $2, longer cure time is better.
5. Crank your DIN's to 16 and send it pussy.**
*Any ruler will suffice as long as it has mm on it, please don't make a thread about rulers.
**Number 5 is a joke, I am letting you know this because I would feel bad if I caused an idiot to get hurt. With all that said, stop being a wiener and do something instead of talking about it on a forum for 3 weeks.
DolanReloadedSo are you saying that in a ski with a metal layer the only think really holding the binding screws securely is the metal layer? That seems unreasonable to me. The whole depth of the ski, both wood and metal, should be holding the binding screws tightly. I dont see why a 3.5mm binding screw wouldnt be able to pull itself through a hole in the titanal layer that was made by a 3.5mm drill bit.
ChakaYou're not understanding. The inside part of the ski binding screw is usually a bit over 4mm, that doesn't include the threads. So with a 4.1mm hole, you are still threading the screw through the metal and the wood. The threads are what hold the binding on the ski. With a 3.5mm hole, you might create compression in your metal layer or cause the torque you put on the screw to pull up the metal layer. Both scenarios are not good for your skis which is why you use a 4.1mm hole. It basically just lessens the amount of torque it takes to thread the screw. I have even mounted skis that had no metal with a 4.1mm bit and it works fine. Also, using a screw tap is a good way to make sure you don't mess up your mount, especially with skis with metal.
DolanReloadedOh cool. U know you shit man, id love to get my skis mounted by your sexy ass where do you work out of?
Turd__AuthorityAs people said, if you're refusing to use a paper template, then just take to a shop cuz it won't be cheaper. It's really not that difficult and quite fun tbh to use a paper template. Just gotta make sure the template is correct and that you have your scale correct. Then measure a billion times. Check one last time. Then drill. There's really excellent guides on tgr and elsewhere on this.
I'm a bit paranoid so I would never do the tape method to stop my drill but people do all the time with success. An extra $15-20 is a good piece of mind for a drill bit I'll have forever (til it breaks lol). Or you could meet halfway and just buy drill bit collars for $5 at a hardware store.
DolanReloadedI probably will, but im toying with the idea of buying a new jig and mounting the bitch myself. But i need one of the recent jigs that i assume tyrolia/elan/fischer/4frnt give to ski shops for free to help them have an easier and more precise go at mounting bindings. I think they dont sell these new jigs to the public, because every jig online and on ebay is between old and really fucking old.
im probably just gonna give up and let a shop do it with their sparkly new jig that my civilian ass isnt allowed to buy. Its frustrating tho bc i really wanted to do it myself.
Inb4 paper template. Im not gonna do it with a paper template.
animatorShops pay for jigs, and the reason they aren’t sold to the public is a liability thing. Techs have to go through certifications (mostly just like online things), so that they’re certified for each brand and their respective mounting process. It’s really easy (one of our techs taught me and now I mount too) but brands don’t wanna waste the time teaching everyone how to do it, plus it would cut out the middle man a whole lot. Paper mounts are kinda sketchy, I did it a few times but almost ruined the skis each time. Not necessarily hard but just awkward. If you know any of the reps in your area you can always ask them to buy a jig but it’ll be tough to find recent examples online
