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I took my pivots into a shop to get mounted because I did not trust myself and then rode them that same day. All seemed well until I got home and realized the mount was crooked as hell as shown in the picture. Does this matter and is it okay to ride them like this?
I called the shop and the lady said I can bring them in and they can see what they can do. Told her they are not going to be able to be remounted center and that they should replace my skis and she told me I would have to call back this weekend when the person that runs the shop is in because that is not her call
another thing to note is that you should not have a binding brake with no greater than 15mm than the ski width. If they sold you the 115s for that ski, they did that wrong as well.
Slightly off topic but the correct answer has been listed probably 30 times.
A lot of the race coaches where I work to this day don't trust shops to mount their bindings. I've mounted a couple pairs and my dad has mounted every ski he has owned as an adult himself too. I have a jig now but in the past I've had luck lining up the boot secured in the toe piece with something under the heel to keep it flat on the ski, mark and measure where the holes are, and carefully use a straight edge to draw lines, intersecting where the holes will be drilled. A drill press is nice to have if no jig cause you can get specific depths at a perfect angle, but I've never used one for skis. I just find the right drill bit for the screw, figure out how deep the hole needs to go, and put a piece of tape on the bit, stopping it from going too deep. Some people like to use a tap, but I feel like that over complicates things and doesn't let the threads bite as hard. Wood glue in every hole.
This is my experience. Don't mount your own bindings if you don't know what you're doing.
Ya my shop fucked me over so hard last year so I mounted my own skis this time. Look pivots, used a paper template. Just take your time and triple check and you’ll be good. I also used a lot of epoxy so hopefully they don’t pull out.
BLandzYa my shop fucked me over so hard last year so I mounted my own skis this time. Look pivots, used a paper template. Just take your time and triple check and you’ll be good. I also used a lot of epoxy so hopefully they don’t pull out.
I've had luck using epoxy with filler and re drilling to secure old holes. Did you actually screw into wet epoxy? Heard from a very reliable source that that doing that with epoxy will force you to drill straight through the screws or hack saw from under the binding when the skis inevitably die and you wanna mount the bindings elsewhere. Probably a good idea tbh if you plan to ski them for an extended period of time with missing edge.
finderSlightly off topic but the correct answer has been listed probably 30 times.
A lot of the race coaches where I work to this day don't trust shops to mount their bindings. I've mounted a couple pairs and my dad has mounted every ski he has owned as an adult himself too. I have a jig now but in the past I've had luck lining up the boot secured in the toe piece with something under the heel to keep it flat on the ski, mark and measure where the holes are, and carefully use a straight edge to draw lines, intersecting where the holes will be drilled. A drill press is nice to have if no jig cause you can get specific depths at a perfect angle, but I've never used one for skis. I just find the right drill bit for the screw, figure out how deep the hole needs to go, and put a piece of tape on the bit, stopping it from going too deep. Some people like to use a tap, but I feel like that over complicates things and doesn't let the threads bite as hard. Wood glue in every hole.
This is my experience. Don't mount your own bindings if you don't know what you're doing.
Could also just buy a drill bit specifically made for drilling mount holes. Cost $15 and are collared so stop at correct depth
sam.stechschulteI will take them back in but I have to wait 2 more weeks until I go back home for winter break. I also don’t think I have the receipt or anything so hopefully they will still do something about it
They will have kept your binding test ticket. Ask for a manager and tell them what happened. Dont tell the techs before hand.
BlumpkinPumpkinCould also just buy a drill bit specifically made for drilling mount holes. Cost $15 and are collared so stop at correct depth
There isnt one bit for that though. There are different bits for drilling different size holes for bindings. His approach is better than just ordering an arbitrary bit.
finderI've had luck using epoxy with filler and re drilling to secure old holes. Did you actually screw into wet epoxy? Heard from a very reliable source that that doing that with epoxy will force you to drill straight through the screws or hack saw from under the binding when the skis inevitably die and you wanna mount the bindings elsewhere. Probably a good idea tbh if you plan to ski them for an extended period of time with missing edge.
Wait so are you basically saying once I need to unmount my skis im pretty much fucked? Cause tbh thats kind of the plan, ive had bindings rip out twice now im sick of that shit hahah. So ya i'll probs just drill right through the ski and just buy new screws for the bindings. And ya I fully did drill into wet epoxy
BLandzWait so are you basically saying once I need to unmount my skis im pretty much fucked? Cause tbh thats kind of the plan, ive had bindings rip out twice now im sick of that shit hahah. So ya i'll probs just drill right through the ski and just buy new screws for the bindings. And ya I fully did drill into wet epoxy
Heat is your friend, a soldering iron on top of the screw head for a few seconds should be enough to loosen up any epoxy in the hole. You'll be fine
CabbyArrantThere isnt one bit for that though. There are different bits for drilling different size holes for bindings. His approach is better than just ordering an arbitrary bit.
Obviously it won't just be some random do all bit. You need to know what you're buying. I was referring to buying a specific bit for specific skis. Correct me if I'm wrong but most skis (omitting racing, junior, and any weird shit) will use a 3.6x9 or a 4.1x9? Armada uses some weird special bit but same cost of roughly $15.
Was just saying that this would be a lot safer than estimating depth with tape or trying to accurately and consistently measure depth and secure with a bit collar. For the cost of a decent drill press, that dude could literally buy every bit in this photo. But in reality he probably will only ever need one or two of them so $15-30.
BlumpkinPumpkinObviously it won't just be some random do all bit. You need to know what you're buying. I was referring to buying a specific bit for specific skis. Correct me if I'm wrong but most skis (omitting racing, junior, and any weird shit) will use a 3.6x9 or a 4.1x9? Armada uses some weird special bit but same cost of roughly $15.
Was just saying that this would be a lot safer than estimating depth with tape or trying to accurately and consistently measure depth and secure with a bit collar. For the cost of a decent drill press, that dude could literally buy every bit in this photo. But in reality he probably will only ever need one or two of them so $15-30.
Most skis have the size printed somewhere in the waist of the ski. If not MOST alpine skis use 3.5x9.5 step bit
BST_PoliceObviously it won't just be some random do all bit. You need to know what you're buying. I was referring to buying a specific bit for specific skis. Correct me if I'm wrong but most skis (omitting racing, junior, and any weird shit) will use a 3.6x9 or a 4.1x9? Armada uses some weird special bit but same cost of roughly $15.
Was just saying that this would be a lot safer than estimating depth with tape or trying to accurately and consistently measure depth and secure with a bit collar. For the cost of a decent drill press, that dude could literally buy every bit in this photo. But in reality he probably will only ever need one or two of them so $15-30.
The shop I worked at way back when used these, the nice thing is that they square up great in a jig it’s basically idiot proof
SnickleFrizPost that picture on the shop's google/yelp reviews.
Let's have the shop take care of him first. Give them a chance to make it right. Everyone is so quick to jump on the internet to try and hurt a company. local ski shops already have it hard enough. For all we know this was a youngster just learning to mount and he messed up. We all make mistakes, it's how we recover from them is what's really important. Giving this guy and the shop a hard time is not the answer.
freeskibum82Let's have the shop take care of him first. Give them a chance to make it right. Everyone is so quick to jump on the internet to try and hurt a company. local ski shops already have it hard enough. For all we know this was a youngster just learning to mount and he messed up. We all make mistakes, it's how we recover from them is what's really important. Giving this guy and the shop a hard time is not the answer.
BST_PoliceObviously it won't just be some random do all bit. You need to know what you're buying. I was referring to buying a specific bit for specific skis. Correct me if I'm wrong but most skis (omitting racing, junior, and any weird shit) will use a 3.6x9 or a 4.1x9? Armada uses some weird special bit but same cost of roughly $15.
3.5x7 = Junior
3.5x9.5 (3.6x9 also works) = Adult ski no metal
4.1x.95 = Adult ski with metal
3.5x14.5 = X-Country
(all in mm)
BST_PoliceObviously it won't just be some random do all bit. You need to know what you're buying. I was referring to buying a specific bit for specific skis. Correct me if I'm wrong but most skis (omitting racing, junior, and any weird shit) will use a 3.6x9 or a 4.1x9? Armada uses some weird special bit but same cost of roughly $15.
Was just saying that this would be a lot safer than estimating depth with tape or trying to accurately and consistently measure depth and secure with a bit collar. For the cost of a decent drill press, that dude could literally buy every bit in this photo. But in reality he probably will only ever need one or two of them so $15-30.
Wait a second I don't see any collar to stop it at the right depth. The smaller part is for lining it up, but you keep drilling past that cuff. I'll keep using tape to stop myself from going through the base. Maybe there's other options out there with this base protecting cuff?
finderWait a second I don't see any collar to stop it at the right depth. The smaller part is for lining it up, but you keep drilling past that cuff. I'll keep using tape to stop myself from going through the base. Maybe there's other options out there with this base protecting cuff?
Nope trust me I used the exact same bit they 100% stop at the cuff. I was scared to drill at first because I didn’t wanna go through my ski so I practiced and an old one and its impossible to drill past that. I was using a drill press too
BLandzNope trust me I used the exact same bit they 100% stop at the cuff. I was scared to drill at first because I didn’t wanna go through my ski so I practiced and an old one and its impossible to drill past that. I was using a drill press too
Is the cuff on your bit flat, or does it have the sharp edge/thread on the cuff like in the photo? Seems like a good idea to have a tapered bit to let all the threads of the screw bite, so I'll probably be getting a set of mount specific bits when I get a drill press.
Resin hardens and cures when heated, so I'd imagine a lot of heat would be needed to break it loose. That or find a way to heat the ski (maybe wax and iron) while cooling the screw such that it shrinking slightly relative to the ski might make it easier.
Wish there was a cheaper jig option. Mine is made from a piece of lexan and requires me to carefully line up clamps to center it. Binding freedom sells a really appealing universal jig but I could see a 3d printable option being doable for a lot less money. Mirror threaded worm gear running side to side could secure clamps inward at the same rate, keeping it centered. I'll cad one if I remember and have time.
finderIs the cuff on your bit flat, or does it have the sharp edge/thread on the cuff like in the photo? Seems like a good idea to have a tapered bit to let all the threads of the screw bite, so I'll probably be getting a set of mount specific bits when I get a drill press.
Resin hardens and cures when heated, so I'd imagine a lot of heat would be needed to break it loose. That or find a way to heat the ski (maybe wax and iron) while cooling the screw such that it shrinking slightly relative to the ski might make it easier.
Wish there was a cheaper jig option. Mine is made from a piece of lexan and requires me to carefully line up clamps to center it. Binding freedom sells a really appealing universal jig but I could see a 3d printable option being doable for a lot less money. Mirror threaded worm gear running side to side could secure clamps inward at the same rate, keeping it centered. I'll cad one if I remember and have time.
The picture is kind of deceiving its like the exact same bit it just looks its not flat but it is. Trust
A shop messed up my mount once by mounting one of the skis backwards (sporadic graphic / fairly symmetrical ski). In the end they hooked it up though. I had bought the skis in clearance for $200, brought in my own old look pivots, and they ended up moving the mount a bit, having one ski with a second set of drilled holes, and gave me $100 off. I thought that was fair- $100 pair of shitty park skis.
finderWait a second I don't see any collar to stop it at the right depth. The smaller part is for lining it up, but you keep drilling past that cuff. I'll keep using tape to stop myself from going through the base. Maybe there's other options out there with this base protecting cuff?
No its flat I promise. Not sure why the top part has a blade to it but it definitely stops
Sorry I was getting tired of reading and responding to this thread but I posted what they said when I called them. Sounds like they will try to fix them but not give me new skis. This is my finals week then I am going home for winter break and will actually go into the shop that did it. The school I go to is 8 hours away from home and that ski shop
Sorry I was getting tired of reading and responding to this thread but I posted what they said when I called them. Sounds like they will try to fix them but not give me new skis. This is my finals week then I am going home for winter break and will actually go into the shop that did it. The school I go to is 8 hours away from home and that ski shop
