Red Bull Unrailistic | LIVE Broadcast

Member of the Month

PartyBullshiit
March, 2024

Online

Welcome to the Newschoolers forums! You may read the forums as a guest, however you must be a registered member to post. Register to become a member today!

Jester IDs & Jester re-mounting

profile picture
THUGwife
Posts: 1909 - Karma: 301
Looking for some help from someone familiar with remounting skis....

I am interested to know if i can take the Jesters off of my new-ish skis (Candide 1.0s) and remount them with Jester IDs in the same spot. Would this be simple, is the mounting pattern the same?

As background, I am looking into getting a tech set-up this season but some of the free-ride boots on the market have rubber grip walk soles which are not compatible with the older Jesters (with no ID) on my 1.0s which I still want to be able to ski on.

It looks like I could buy a boot with a sole that is inter-changeable (like a Lupo) and put an alpine sole on it but am currently assessing all my options.
Oct 28 2019 1:57PM
1 0
profile picture
AGreen97
Posts: 20 - Karma: 61
Yes the Jester and Jester ID have the same hole pattern - you just want to make sure that when you make the switch to use a stronger glue like Gorilla Glue in the holes for a bit of a stronger hold as well as sealing the holes for water. I'd recommend going that route over swapping soles because a) touring on alpine soles kind of sucks b) having Gripwalk soles all the time as quite convenient, and c) when swapping soles on the lupo, you're screwing into plastic, which is super scary and means you can only really swap them a few times.
Oct 28 2019 3:19PM
1 1
profile picture
THUGwife
Posts: 1909 - Karma: 301
thecolorgreen97Yes the Jester and Jester ID have the same hole pattern - you just want to make sure that when you make the switch to use a stronger glue like Gorilla Glue in the holes for a bit of a stronger hold as well as sealing the holes for water. I'd recommend going that route over swapping soles because a) touring on alpine soles kind of sucks b) having Gripwalk soles all the time as quite convenient, and c) when swapping soles on the lupo, you're screwing into plastic, which is super scary and means you can only really swap them a few times.


Fantastic. Thanks for the speedy response.
Oct 28 2019 5:38PM
1 0
profile picture
animator
Posts: 4546 - Karma: 26,203
Actually its funny you mention this because I am in the exact same position. I have Griffon IDs on my Candide 1.0s and I just bought a Scarpa Maestrale Rs (ISO 9523 touring sole). I wanted a Lupo but according to GripWalk themselves, the Sole.ID bindings are NOT compatible with GripWalk soles. I feel like the information I was given by them is misleading, considering that GripWalk is an MDV technology, but all the same I would double check. Their website has a page that you can search compatible bindings on and the Sole.ID bindings are not there.
Oct 29 2019 5:45PM
0 0
profile picture
THUGwife
Posts: 1909 - Karma: 301
animatorActually its funny you mention this because I am in the exact same position. I have Griffon IDs on my Candide 1.0s and I just bought a Scarpa Maestrale Rs (ISO 9523 touring sole). I wanted a Lupo but according to GripWalk themselves, the Sole.ID bindings are NOT compatible with GripWalk soles. I feel like the information I was given by them is misleading, considering that GripWalk is an MDV technology, but all the same I would double check. Their website has a page that you can search compatible bindings on and the Sole.ID bindings are not there.


Thats really weird. Marker suggest the ID bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 soles so I would have thought they would work.
Oct 29 2019 6:20PM
0 0
profile picture
animator
Posts: 4546 - Karma: 26,203
THUGwifeThats really weird. Marker suggest the ID bindings are compatible with ISO 9523 soles so I would have thought they would work.


This is where I was confused too. GripWalk and WTR bindings don't meet the ISO 9523 norm, which is why I bought a ISO 9523 norm boot and not GripWalk/WTR
Oct 29 2019 6:27PM
0 0
profile picture
Cbathgate
Posts: 44 - Karma: 9
animatorThis is where I was confused too. GripWalk and WTR bindings don't meet the ISO 9523 norm, which is why I bought a ISO 9523 norm boot and not GripWalk/WTR


Jester ID will work with Gripwalk, it's not fully marketed this way but it is marketed by saying it will work with every kind of ski boot. A bit confusing, but because it's a height adjustable toe it does work fine with gripwalk. I've used that set up with my Lupo's loads.
Oct 29 2019 6:50PM
2 0
profile picture
animator
Posts: 4546 - Karma: 26,203
CbathgateJester ID will work with Gripwalk, it's not fully marketed this way but it is marketed by saying it will work with every kind of ski boot. A bit confusing, but because it's a height adjustable toe it does work fine with gripwalk. I've used that set up with my Lupo's loads.


Fair enough! Just relaying what I was told, it seemed real odd that I was told that GripWalk was not compatible with Sole.ID bindings, especially given that it's an MDV tech. Thank's for the insight!
Oct 29 2019 7:03PM
0 0
profile picture
freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,055
You only need to swap the toe. i would leave the heel plate on the ski. just back out the two screws in front of the afd to remove the toe. I dont think the front plate changed either so you could just leave that as well (depending on how old the jesters are) and then you are only backing out two screws instead of all 8 (per ski)
Oct 30 2019 8:52AM
0 0
profile picture
Cbathgate
Posts: 44 - Karma: 9
freeskibum82You only need to swap the toe. i would leave the heel plate on the ski. just back out the two screws in front of the afd to remove the toe. I dont think the front plate changed either so you could just leave that as well (depending on how old the jesters are) and then you are only backing out two screws instead of all 8 (per ski)


When they swapped to the ID the front two changed as well, so that you can change the toe height with a posi instead of an allen key. So you would need to change the whole toe
Oct 30 2019 3:43PM
0 0
profile picture
freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,055
CbathgateWhen they swapped to the ID the front two changed as well, so that you can change the toe height with a posi instead of an allen key. So you would need to change the whole toe


Ah i forgot about that. thankfully they moved the screw to the front so you can adjust with the boot in instead of the back and forth game of removing the boot and using the allen key in an awkward spot.
Oct 30 2019 3:55PM
2 0
profile picture
Cbathgate
Posts: 44 - Karma: 9
freeskibum82Ah i forgot about that. thankfully they moved the screw to the front so you can adjust with the boot in instead of the back and forth game of removing the boot and using the allen key in an awkward spot.


Absolutely, that was a nightmare.
Oct 31 2019 1:03AM
0 0
profile picture
AGreen97
Posts: 20 - Karma: 61
freeskibum82You only need to swap the toe. i would leave the heel plate on the ski. just back out the two screws in front of the afd to remove the toe. I dont think the front plate changed either so you could just leave that as well (depending on how old the jesters are) and then you are only backing out two screws instead of all 8 (per ski)


Yeah you'd have to swap the toe plate too because as mentioned above, they moved the AFD adjustment screw to the front. But you might as well swap the heel as well because, to my knowledge, you can't buy just the toe, and you're better off keeping the sets together.

**This post was edited on Nov 4th 2019 at 8:29:05pm
Nov 3 2019 11:08PM
0 0
profile picture
THUGwife
Posts: 1909 - Karma: 301
So I have actually solved my issue with boots. Have got myself some Tecnica Cochise and they come with an alpine sole as standard. So, I will be able to roll with my 1.0s and old Jesters for at least this season and then change up down the line if I am doing more touring and want a grip walk sole.

Thanks for the suggestions guys.
Nov 4 2019 3:01PM
0 0
profile picture
clorox
Posts: 1728 - Karma: 4,861
thecolorgreen97Yes the Jester and Jester ID have the same hole pattern - you just want to make sure that when you make the switch to use a stronger glue like Gorilla Glue in the holes for a bit of a stronger hold as well as sealing the holes for water. I'd recommend going that route over swapping soles because a) touring on alpine soles kind of sucks b) having Gripwalk soles all the time as quite convenient, and c) when swapping soles on the lupo, you're screwing into plastic, which is super scary and means you can only really swap them a few times.
THUGwifeFantastic. Thanks for the speedy response.


Pls don't do this. Gorilla glue expands and will cause all kinds of problems for sealing and keeping a consistent screw height. You'll want to not strip the screw and need to drill through to pull the binding later. Wood glue will work fine.
Nov 4 2019 3:24PM
0 0
profile picture
AGreen97
Posts: 20 - Karma: 61
finderPls don't do this. Gorilla glue expands and will cause all kinds of problems for sealing and keeping a consistent screw height. You'll want to not strip the screw and need to drill through to pull the binding later. Wood glue will work fine.


You definitely don't want to fill the hole with it because yes, it'll expand and possibly dimple the base. But I've remounted dozens of skis with a drop of Gorilla Glue in the holes and never had an issue with either dimpling the base or the binding ripping out, whereas I have had a binding rip out when I used just wood glue (and no, the screws were not stripped).

**This post was edited on Nov 4th 2019 at 8:35:41pm
Nov 4 2019 8:33PM
0 0
profile picture
clorox
Posts: 1728 - Karma: 4,861
thecolorgreen97You definitely don't want to fill the hole with it because yes, it'll expand and possibly dimple the base. But I've remounted dozens of skis with a drop of Gorilla Glue in the holes and never had an issue with either dimpling the base or the binding ripping out, whereas I have had a binding rip out when I used just wood glue (and no, the screws were not stripped).

**This post was edited on Nov 4th 2019 at 8:35:41pm


Then I recommend that you use a small amount of marine-tex around the surface instead. Gorilla glue won't make a watertight seal after it expands. Maybe in your experience, you didn't notice a difference, but hardened gorilla is brittle, and can break down over time. Marine-tex can flex. The stuff is also a lot bettter than p tex for core shots if durability gets priority over speed.

Personally when I remount, if I'm worried about the screws ripping out, I'll put some epoxy with filler in the hole and re-drill. Probably the best option.
Nov 4 2019 9:09PM
0 0
profile picture
freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,055
I use this: https://www.slidewright.com/svst-binding--hole-plug-glue--sealant-2-oz.php
Nov 5 2019 7:07AM
0 0
All times are Eastern (-4)