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Are my bindings mounted correctly

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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
So I decided to get some better bindings(marker griffons) on my skis since I also had to get different sized boots.
**This thread was edited on Feb 21st 2019 at 2:46:44pm

**This thread was edited on Feb 21st 2019 at 2:49:30pm
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
I had them remounted in a shop and I noticed this small (probably less than 1mm) gap between the ski and heel piece. I'm wondering if this will be fine or do i need to do something about it.

**This post was edited on Feb 21st 2019 at 2:49:20pm
6 years ago
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OregonDead
Posts: 7068 - Karma: 26,599
From the picture I can't tell. The plastic housing thing doesn't need to be totally flush with your ski as long as the screws are all the way in.
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
OregonDeadFrom the picture I can't tell. The plastic housing thing doesn't need to be totally flush with your ski as long as the screws are all the way in.

I can't really tell myself either. I can't see the screws but it also looks like it's not perfectly flush with the ski around them. Maybe Im just too pedantic
6 years ago
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freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,056
they should be flush. sometimes when shops drill into skis it raises the topsheet a little and wont let the binding sit flush. I take a razor blade to remove this or just slight pressure from the bit to countersink it a little. This happens to line skis ive noticed too. Since the heel piece slides onto that track for the griffon, id bring it to the shop and have them slide off the heel quick and torque down the screws a few more turns. If that doesnt eliminate, they should remove the plate, clean off the top of the ski in the area and make sure there are no raises areas around the holes drilled and then reglue and screw the plate back in.
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
freeskibum82they should be flush. sometimes when shops drill into skis it raises the topsheet a little and wont let the binding sit flush. I take a razor blade to remove this or just slight pressure from the bit to countersink it a little. This happens to line skis ive noticed too. Since the heel piece slides onto that track for the griffon, id bring it to the shop and have them slide off the heel quick and torque down the screws a few more turns. If that doesnt eliminate, they should remove the plate, clean off the top of the ski in the area and make sure there are no raises areas around the holes drilled and then reglue and screw the plate back in.

How big of a deal is it that it's not flush though. And could I try to do it myself or is it too risky?
6 years ago
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BrawnTrends
Posts: 1102 - Karma: 2,440
freeskibum82they should be flush. sometimes when shops drill into skis it raises the topsheet a little and wont let the binding sit flush.


Or it could be when the tech plugged the previous holes. But same outcome.
6 years ago
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Non_State_Actor
Posts: 5088 - Karma: 18,621
Ar3zzHow big of a deal is it that it's not flush though. And could I try to do it myself or is it too risky?


Go for it. If you have a torque driver even better.

If the shop is convenient it'd be easy to go back and have them checked though.
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
mystery3Go for it. If you have a torque driver even better.

If the shop is convenient it'd be easy to go back and have them checked though.

I think I have one of those drivers. Guess I'm going to try that then.
6 years ago
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brett_fisher
Posts: 2419 - Karma: 10,518
BrawnTrendsOr it could be when the tech plugged the previous holes. But same outcome.


Your supposed to file the plugs off.can't remember what it's called but we have these gnarly files I think it's called panzers that make em flush with the ski.
6 years ago
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brett_fisher
Posts: 2419 - Karma: 10,518
Ar3zzI think I have one of those drivers. Guess I'm going to try that then.


http://www.race-werks.com/pozi-drive-3-binding-screw-driver/

you can also find the drill bit too online be carful using a drill not to strip the holes
when I mount skis I use the drill first and go back with the screw driver.
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
Next question. Is it bad that these 2 holes are this close to the old ones?

**This post was edited on Feb 24th 2019 at 10:44:16am
6 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1527 - Karma: 4,311
Ar3zzNext question. Is it bad that these 2 holes are this close to the old ones?

**This post was edited on Feb 24th 2019 at 10:44:16am


Yes! Typically strength starts to diminish rapidly as you start to get closer than 8mm from a previous hole.The general rule is to say at least 1 cm away from a previous mount.

Also you don't need any sort of drill to remount bindings in the same/ already drilled hole. Shops use them for convenience, they are fast and they don't have to train techs about how to not strip a hole.
6 years ago
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freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,056
PoikenzYes! Typically strength starts to diminish rapidly as you start to get closer than 8mm from a previous hole.The general rule is to say at least 1 cm away from a previous mount.

Also you don't need any sort of drill to remount bindings in the same/ already drilled hole. Shops use them for convenience, they are fast and they don't have to train techs about how to not strip a hole.

1cm is a lot. especially if the ski has metal in it. You obviously want some space and the holes should not touch or overlap but 1cm really limits being able to mount so the boot center is in the correct location on the ski. I generally try to remount by moving either heel or toe if i can to align the boot center mark and cut down on how many holes a ski has.

Common practice is to hand tighten to finish. I have torque set low on the drill and then i always go over all the screws by hand after. It has nothing to do with not having to train techs and more to do with efficiency.
6 years ago
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B.Quincy
Posts: 1074 - Karma: 963
freeskibum821cm is a lot. especially if the ski has metal in it. You obviously want some space and the holes should not touch or overlap but 1cm really limits being able to mount so the boot center is in the correct location on the ski. I generally try to remount by moving either heel or toe if i can to align the boot center mark and cut down on how many holes a ski has.

Common practice is to hand tighten to finish. I have torque set low on the drill and then i always go over all the screws by hand after. It has nothing to do with not having to train techs and more to do with efficiency.


Yep same here set the drill on the lowest torque setting than finish with pozi drive by hand. My question on this post is I wonder if the tech who mounted stripped screw possibly and hence another reason why not flush. Knowing the griffon screws on those plates definitely possible...
6 years ago
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Poikenz
Posts: 1527 - Karma: 4,311
freeskibum821cm is a lot. especially if the ski has metal in it. You obviously want some space and the holes should not touch or overlap but 1cm really limits being able to mount so the boot center is in the correct location on the ski. I generally try to remount by moving either heel or toe if i can to align the boot center mark and cut down on how many holes a ski has.

Common practice is to hand tighten to finish. I have torque set low on the drill and then i always go over all the screws by hand after. It has nothing to do with not having to train techs and more to do with efficiency.


I've definitely worked at shops where some techs know nothing (not always their fault) or don't care enough to use more than just the drill. Not saying everyone does it, but it does happen.

And sorry, you are right about hole distance. I go with a minimum of 1 cm center to center of holes, so I might not have made that clear. The guidelines that most people go off of are 7mm+ from hole center to center, which gives you 3.4 mm edge to edge on holes drilled at 3.6 mm. I'd say that those holes on Op's skis are still too close together and risk pulling out at some point.
6 years ago
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Ar3zz
Posts: 7 - Karma: 15
PoikenzI've definitely worked at shops where some techs know nothing (not always their fault) or don't care enough to use more than just the drill. Not saying everyone does it, but it does happen.

And sorry, you are right about hole distance. I go with a minimum of 1 cm center to center of holes, so I might not have made that clear. The guidelines that most people go off of are 7mm+ from hole center to center, which gives you 3.4 mm edge to edge on holes drilled at 3.6 mm. I'd say that those holes on Op's skis are still too close together and risk pulling out at some point.


I can just hope that they won't pull out then. Luckily all the other holes are further away from the old ones. Filled the holes with some epoxy too so that might give a little bit more strenght.
6 years ago
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freeskibum82
Posts: 6355 - Karma: 5,056
Ar3zzI can just hope that they won't pull out then. Luckily all the other holes are further away from the old ones. Filled the holes with some epoxy too so that might give a little bit more strenght.


if they pull out, not a big deal. just pop a helicoil in there and you're good to go
6 years ago
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Blake.P
Posts: 9894 - Karma: 3,585
PoikenzI've definitely worked at shops where some techs know nothing (not always their fault) or don't care enough to use more than just the drill. Not saying everyone does it, but it does happen.


Going off on that, while newer/not experienced techs should always always finish mounts by hand, a experienced tech can do everything with a drill. It comes down to going slow with the drill, and knowing how to feel the torque is good based on the drill tension, without stripping the holes or under-torquing the screws. I worked in a shop for a number of years, and can comfortably/safely do a mount using only a drill (though I still check everything with a pozi)
6 years ago
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