Member of the Month

theabortionator
April, 2025

Online

Welcome to the Newschoolers forums! You may read the forums as a guest, however you must be a registered member to post. Register to become a member today!

Official: Atomic & Salomon Shift 13 MNC Binding Thread

profile picture
onenerdykid
Posts: 6744 - Karma: 11,760
Hey NS,

I've gotten a few requests to make a Shift binding thread, similar to the Hawx Ultra XTD thread, where you can dump all of your questions and I will do my best to answer them.

I'll skip a story intro as that's already been beaten to death across the interwebz, but I'll throw some basic stats down for reference.

DIN range: 6 - 13

Boot norms (for skiing):
Alpine ISO 5355
Touring ISO 9523 (Full Rubber, WTR, Grip Walk)
Not compatible with non-norm boots (Atomic Backland, Salomon X-Alp, Dynafit TLT 7, Scarpa F1, etc.)

Elastic Travel (toe):
Shift - 47mm
STH2 - 52mm
Warden - 30mm
Marker Kingpin - 3mm
Dynafit Radical ST 2.0 - 3mm

Power Transmission - toe MX (daN/mm):
Shift - 6
Warden 13 - 6
Marker Baron - 5
Marker Griffon - 5.5

Length Adjustment (heel tray) - 30mm

Stand Height:
Toe (alpine boot) - maximum 28mm
Toe (touring boot) - minimum 20mm
Can be adjusted anywhere within that range via adjustable AFD.
Heel - 29mm

Climbing Heights - 2° (no aide), 10° (with aide)

Brakes: 90mm, 100mm, 110mm, 120mm

Crampons: 100mm, 120mm

Weights (pair):
Shift - 1732g (with 90mm brakes & screws)
Warden 13 - 2260g
Marker Griffon - 1910g
Marker Baron - 2450g
Marker Kingpin - 1549g (from Blister)
Dynafit Radical FT 2.0 - 1305g (from Blister)

**This thread was edited on Jan 3rd 2018 at 8:07:17am

**This thread was edited on Jan 3rd 2018 at 8:08:23am
7 years ago
3 0
profile picture
soupcan
Posts: 364 - Karma: 562
Have a few days on my shifts and I am pleasantly surprised at how they ski. I do have one question. The front of my bindings on both sides are about 1mm off the ski seemed odd to me, but I checked the torque and screw depth all seems fine. Additionally where there are actual screws the binding is flush with the ski it’s just right near the tip where no screws are holding the binding down. Anybody have any thoughts?
5 years ago
0 0
profile picture
BrawnTrends
Posts: 1102 - Karma: 2,440
soupcanHave a few days on my shifts and I am pleasantly surprised at how they ski. I do have one question. The front of my bindings on both sides are about 1mm off the ski seemed odd to me, but I checked the torque and screw depth all seems fine. Additionally where there are actual screws the binding is flush with the ski it’s just right near the tip where no screws are holding the binding down. Anybody have any thoughts?


Probably just the topsheet that rose a little when they drilled it (happens when you work too fast, but has no consequences). But if it concernes you, take them back to the shop and ask them (nicely) to clean it up. They should do it for free.
5 years ago
1 0
profile picture
Turnfarmer
Posts: 63 - Karma: 80
I'd take them back to the shop just to make sure the front of the binding that slides into a washer like shim at the front is properly engaged there. It's mounted to the ski first with a screw and is not visible. If the tech didn't push the front of the binding down hard enough the toe piece can slide forward above and not engage the screwed in washer.
The problem could easily be the raised top sheet mentioned but it is worth making sure the toe piece is properly engaged.
5 years ago
1 0
profile picture
soupcan
Posts: 364 - Karma: 562
BrawnTrendsProbably just the topsheet that rose a little when they drilled it (happens when you work too fast, but has no consequences). But if it concernes you, take them back to the shop and ask them (nicely) to clean it up. They should do it for free.

Thanks, that was my assumption but I noticed it and just wanted to see other people’s opinions. There is no contact screws in the vicinity of the rise so after thinking about it last night there is a chance the it’s just going with the camber profile of the skis even.
TurnfarmerI'd take them back to the shop just to make sure the front of the binding that slides into a washer like shim at the front is properly engaged there. It's mounted to the ski first with a screw and is not visible. If the tech didn't push the front of the binding down hard enough the toe piece can slide forward above and not engage the screwed in washer.
The problem could easily be the raised top sheet mentioned but it is worth making sure the toe piece is properly engaged.

Thanks for the advice, the front washer is engaged I double check that screw when I tested the torque on the screws. That was sort of my first assumption when I noticed it to but upon further investigation it was not the case. Either way I’ll get a shop to take a look and go from there.


cheers gang! Appreciate the insight!
5 years ago
0 0
profile picture
Monsieur_Patate
Posts: 1393 - Karma: 4,308
What crampons do you guys use? I know Salomon has officially supported crampons but they are hard to come by and also pretty expensive, wondering if any other model out there would fit.
5 years ago
0 0
profile picture
chevelus
Posts: 1 - Karma: 10
Hi, I have the Shift 10 and REI told me my boot (a La Sportiva Spectre) is incompatible because the toe is too high and it is not ISO 9523. From what I can research, it is ISO 9523, and the toe is 30mm, which is within the parameters. Unfortunately, REI seems correct that the Shift is not going to work with this boot -- the AFD plate does not go down enough to provide the toe clearance. Any advice? I think I may shave/grind/sand down the vibram boot soles to provide a bit more clearance (I think we are talking 1-2mm). I'd hate to have to buy new boots or return the bindings.
3 years ago
0 0
profile picture
onenerdykid
Posts: 6744 - Karma: 11,760
chevelusHi, I have the Shift 10 and REI told me my boot (a La Sportiva Spectre) is incompatible because the toe is too high and it is not ISO 9523. From what I can research, it is ISO 9523, and the toe is 30mm, which is within the parameters. Unfortunately, REI seems correct that the Shift is not going to work with this boot -- the AFD plate does not go down enough to provide the toe clearance. Any advice? I think I may shave/grind/sand down the vibram boot soles to provide a bit more clearance (I think we are talking 1-2mm). I'd hate to have to buy new boots or return the bindings.

I would get a second opinion from a more touring-oriented shop.
3 years ago
2 0
All times are Eastern (-4); Currently it's 5:23AM