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So I'm going to get some boots fitted and whilst I'll let the boot fitter recommend and tell me what boots suit my feet and my skiing style. What are your thoughts on the Atomic Hawx Ultra 130? I was just browsing their boot range seeing what they may recommend to me. and saw these what are your thoughts?
I just picked up a pair of the ultra 130 s, super stoked. Great compliment to my XTD's
I rode a day in resort and feel i want to push the forward lean to 17*. I pulled off the powershift and tried to push it forward to the 17, but couldnt even get it to budge. going back to 13* was no problem at all though. Am I missing something?
It can be done with one person but is easiest when done with two people (it was originally meant as a boot-fitter adjustment). You get in the boot and buckle it up on a medium tension. 2nd person loosens the screws in the Power Shift so it wobbles (but don't fully remove them), then you flex forward to the 17° setting (sometimes this takes some effort), and the 2nd person screws the Power Shift into place at the 17° setting.
onenerdykidIt can be done with one person but is easiest when done with two people (it was originally meant as a boot-fitter adjustment). You get in the boot and buckle it up on a medium tension. 2nd person loosens the screws in the Power Shift so it wobbles (but don't fully remove them), then you flex forward to the 17° setting (sometimes this takes some effort), and the 2nd person screws the Power Shift into place at the 17° setting.
Hey, I just bought a used (+/- 5 days) pair of the ultra 130s. They've been memory fit one. My foot in narrower in the forefoot but wider in the ankle. Can I get them memory fit again without ruining the shape or exhausting the plastic?
DaysToComeHey, I just bought a used (+/- 5 days) pair of the ultra 130s. They've been memory fit one. My foot in narrower in the forefoot but wider in the ankle. Can I get them memory fit again without ruining the shape or exhausting the plastic?
Usually most boots and liners can be molded 2-3 times without issue.
Hello to everybody, i just buy these boots atomic hawx ultra xtd 130 :-).
could anyone explain to me where we use , for what reason and how we assembling these two ''plastic''
I am looking for instructions more than 5hours but nothing :-/
ScowlFlakeHello to everybody, i just buy these boots atomic hawx ultra xtd 130 :-).
could anyone explain to me where we use , for what reason and how we assembling these two ''plastic''
I am looking for instructions more than 5hours but nothing :-/
thanks in advance
That is the correct position for the rear cuff spoiler. If you search under “rear cuff spoiler” you will see lots of info online. It is there to slightly increase forward lean and is especially helpful in making up space and giving a tighter fit for those with skinnier legs. Those with large calves or those who don’t want the slight extra forward lean may not use it as it may cause pressure points with it in so that’s why it’s not pre-installed.
So usually(but not always) skinny legs-Usually install the spoiler, wider legs-try it on or off to see which you and your bootfitter prefer.
Absolutely love these boots, but has anyone had issues with shock absorption? I find the foot board is super hard and really kills the heels landing short or overshooting jumps. Any tips to solve this?
Saw someone a few pages back posted some custom silicon inserts, but worried that'll mess up all fitting work I've had done (heat mold, ankle pads, custom liner). Am I over-reacting? Other ideas?
TRSkier415Absolutely love these boots, but has anyone had issues with shock absorption? I find the foot board is super hard and really kills the heels landing short or overshooting jumps. Any tips to solve this?
Saw someone a few pages back posted some custom silicon inserts, but worried that'll mess up all fitting work I've had done (heat mold, ankle pads, custom liner). Am I over-reacting? Other ideas?
Found the same thing when I got these boots vs “park boots” that usually some shock absorbing in their foot boards. As you said, usually adding things in there will affect the fit so what I did was get a better absorbing(and shaped) insole that was the same height as the factory universal insole. Sidas who makes many factory insoles also makes custom molded insoles or some over the counter ones that have different levels of arch to better match your foot as well as absorbing material in the heel area. Think mine were about $50 CAN and you just cut to match your factory liner shape. Here’s some pics of mine.
I absolutely love these boots! Once I can get into them that is! I have high arches and it is extremely difficult for me to get these on. I fear that I am going to break the straps on the liners pulling them on. I have tried pulling the tongue all the way forward and then towards the outside, and eventually I get them on, but its literally a 5 min torture session. I typically put them on in walk mode, would it be easier in regular mode? I also always strap and buckle my boots up after wearing them. Would leaving them open help? Please help, I want to love these boots, but I absolutely dread putting them on!
WHITEFISHNATEI absolutely love these boots! Once I can get into them that is! I have high arches and it is extremely difficult for me to get these on. I fear that I am going to break the straps on the liners pulling them on. I have tried pulling the tongue all the way forward and then towards the outside, and eventually I get them on, but its literally a 5 min torture session. I typically put them on in walk mode, would it be easier in regular mode? I also always strap and buckle my boots up after wearing them. Would leaving them open help? Please help, I want to love these boots, but I absolutely dread putting them on!
WHITEFISHNATEI absolutely love these boots! Once I can get into them that is! I have high arches and it is extremely difficult for me to get these on. I fear that I am going to break the straps on the liners pulling them on. I have tried pulling the tongue all the way forward and then towards the outside, and eventually I get them on, but its literally a 5 min torture session. I typically put them on in walk mode, would it be easier in regular mode? I also always strap and buckle my boots up after wearing them. Would leaving them open help? Please help, I want to love these boots, but I absolutely dread putting them on!
What I found worked best when I had a pair was to take the liner out and put it back in with my foot.
WHITEFISHNATEI absolutely love these boots! Once I can get into them that is! I have high arches and it is extremely difficult for me to get these on. I fear that I am going to break the straps on the liners pulling them on. I have tried pulling the tongue all the way forward and then towards the outside, and eventually I get them on, but its literally a 5 min torture session. I typically put them on in walk mode, would it be easier in regular mode? I also always strap and buckle my boots up after wearing them. Would leaving them open help? Please help, I want to love these boots, but I absolutely dread putting them on!
When getting into any ski boot, NEVER pull up on the tongue to get in. Use the tongue as a "shield" and move it to the outside/forward and then with your other hand grab the other shell flap and spread the boot open. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing this proper technique.
Thanks! Game changer. lol. I had been pulling the tongue forward and to the side, and it wasn't enough to get my foot in comfortably. I was pulling up on the back at the same time, and would eventually get it in. Using the other had on the front of the boot pulling to the inside made the world of difference. Thanks a lot!
Hey guys just checking in to see if anyone on NS has swapped out their stock Hawx Ultra liner. I have very pronounced bumps above my heels from growing up in hockey skates and after ~40 days in my hawx ultra 120s it has become pretty unbearable from rubbing when flexing/ landing switch. My heel is not lifting, just rubbing.
Have been to my local boot fitter through the whole process and have tried punching, grinding, windows in liners, and padding above the heel. Looking into intuition liners as a possible last ditch effort before switching boots, which would suck as the hawx fit so well except my heel.
Would love to hear peoples experiences with different liners or if you think a different liner could help my situation. Running sidas custom insoles and not sure which intuition liner i would be looking into.
Vinny142Hey guys just checking in to see if anyone on NS has swapped out their stock Hawx Ultra liner. I have very pronounced bumps above my heels from growing up in hockey skates and after ~40 days in my hawx ultra 120s it has become pretty unbearable from rubbing when flexing/ landing switch. My heel is not lifting, just rubbing.
Have been to my local boot fitter through the whole process and have tried punching, grinding, windows in liners, and padding above the heel. Looking into intuition liners as a possible last ditch effort before switching boots, which would suck as the hawx fit so well except my heel.
Would love to hear peoples experiences with different liners or if you think a different liner could help my situation. Running sidas custom insoles and not sure which intuition liner i would be looking into.
Thanks
I have the Hawx Ultra 130 S in a 29/29.5 and run a 29 Intuition Pro Wrap in them. Never even used the stock liners because they felt like toys compared to Intuitions. The boot also fits me way better with the Intuitions. The stock liner gave me too much room.
*Note, Intuition recommends upsizing to the next size up if your boots are half size, which would mean I should be using a size 30 liner in the boots. I haven't had any problem with using a 29. I tried putting in a size 30 liner and it was too big for the boot - the heel creased and I literally could not buckle the boot WITHOUT my feet in them, because of the liner's bulk. My point being, you may want to consider not upsizing your Intuition if you get the Pro Wrap, and just go with the size that actually matches your boot size. So, size 29/29.5 boot = size 29 Pro Wrap.
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:56:47am
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:58:57am
I have the new 130s and have been skiing with them for a little over a month now. They feel great. Fit perfect around the toes, and heal. I have a custom insert in them that fit my high arches perfectly. My only issue is the fit around my calf/chin. Its just a little bit too loose, and I have them buckled as tight as I can get them, and then put the strap as tight as I can get it. They is still a little bit too much play in them. Should I look into getting them heat molded? Should I add in the extra spoiler? Is this just how they are?
WHITEFISHNATEI have the new 130s and have been skiing with them for a little over a month now. They feel great. Fit perfect around the toes, and heal. I have a custom insert in them that fit my high arches perfectly. My only issue is the fit around my calf/chin. Its just a little bit too loose, and I have them buckled as tight as I can get them, and then put the strap as tight as I can get it. They is still a little bit too much play in them. Should I look into getting them heat molded? Should I add in the extra spoiler? Is this just how they are?
skeirmanI have the Hawx Ultra 130 S in a 29/29.5 and run a 29 Intuition Pro Wrap in them. Never even used the stock liners because they felt like toys compared to Intuitions. The boot also fits me way better with the Intuitions. The stock liner gave me too much room.
*Note, Intuition recommends upsizing to the next size up if your boots are half size, which would mean I should be using a size 30 liner in the boots. I haven't had any problem with using a 29. I tried putting in a size 30 liner and it was too big for the boot - the heel creased and I literally could not buckle the boot WITHOUT my feet in them, because of the liner's bulk. My point being, you may want to consider not upsizing your Intuition if you get the Pro Wrap, and just go with the size that actually matches your boot size. So, size 29/29.5 boot = size 29 Pro Wrap.
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:56:47am
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:58:57am
Now you have me seriously considering this. I’m in my fourth season in mine and feel like I need to crank them down more every day I ski. My only hesitation would be availability of getting them re-fit since I originally did it out in Breck (I live in PA) and was really happy with the shop I went to. I already did the memory fit and vacuum fit with custom foot beds and the stock liner. Think I would be happy just heating the intuition liner, plopping it in the shell with the footbeds and molding it that way? Or would you back for a full memory fit again be the best option?
WHITEFISHNATEYes, factory liners. I was told that they were upgraded for 2020 and would be good to go for alpine.
Yeah, but that's what every boot maker says every year about their liners. The truth is factory liners are generally not great at all. Regardless, an Intuition wrap style liner is for sure going to provide more bulk around the calf than the Hawx liner. I don't know if it would solve your problem or not.
AuschieNow you have me seriously considering this. I’m in my fourth season in mine and feel like I need to crank them down more every day I ski. My only hesitation would be availability of getting them re-fit since I originally did it out in Breck (I live in PA) and was really happy with the shop I went to. I already did the memory fit and vacuum fit with custom foot beds and the stock liner. Think I would be happy just heating the intuition liner, plopping it in the shell with the footbeds and molding it that way? Or would you back for a full memory fit again be the best option?
I took my heat molded Intuitions out of my old non-Hawx boots, dropped them in my new Hawx 130 shells, and have done zero additional fitting and have had no issues at all, even without molding them to the shell or molding the shell itself. My guess is that just molding a new Intuition liner to your boot and foot would do the trick. But I am not a bootfitter and am only speaking from my own experience.
skeirmanI took my heat molded Intuitions out of my old non-Hawx boots, dropped them in my new Hawx 130 shells, and have done zero additional fitting and have had no issues at all, even without molding them to the shell or molding the shell itself. My guess is that just molding a new Intuition liner to your boot and foot would do the trick. But I am not a bootfitter and am only speaking from my own experience.
skeirmanI have the Hawx Ultra 130 S in a 29/29.5 and run a 29 Intuition Pro Wrap in them. Never even used the stock liners because they felt like toys compared to Intuitions. The boot also fits me way better with the Intuitions. The stock liner gave me too much room.
*Note, Intuition recommends upsizing to the next size up if your boots are half size, which would mean I should be using a size 30 liner in the boots. I haven't had any problem with using a 29. I tried putting in a size 30 liner and it was too big for the boot - the heel creased and I literally could not buckle the boot WITHOUT my feet in them, because of the liner's bulk. My point being, you may want to consider not upsizing your Intuition if you get the Pro Wrap, and just go with the size that actually matches your boot size. So, size 29/29.5 boot = size 29 Pro Wrap.
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:56:47am
**This post was edited on Jan 17th 2020 at 12:58:57am
Thanks, still not 100% on which liner I’ll try just waiting to hear back from intuition. I’ve just been scrounging around trying out people’s unused liners and found some dalbello liners out of a Lupo that almost work. Gives me hope that the right liner would solve my problem.
HoelWould also be interested in hearing about the new liners!
Bought a new pair of Primes just before they were announced : D oh god
Once SIA winds down, I will do a write up about our new liner technology called Mimic. This is a new customization technology that's been in the works for about 2.5 years and an I idea I had going back at least 5. It's going to debut in our Platinum level liners first and also be available as an aftermarket option for those of you who already own a good boot but are looking to upgrade the liner.
skeirmanI took my heat molded Intuitions out of my old non-Hawx boots, dropped them in my new Hawx 130 shells, and have done zero additional fitting and have had no issues at all, even without molding them to the shell or molding the shell itself. My guess is that just molding a new Intuition liner to your boot and foot would do the trick. But I am not a bootfitter and am only speaking from my own experience.
So I went with the Intuition Power Wrap Liner, size 27. My Hawx are a a 27.5. I can’t fit the liner in the Shell, it sits flat but the bottom tongue stays flared open.
You have the Intuition Pro Wrap correct? Isn’t that the same volume as the Power Wrap but with more room in the toe box?
I am debating trying the Full Tilt Intuition Pro Wrap, which I believe is the same as the Intuition Pro Wrap, but I’m worried if it’s the same volume it also will not fit in the shell.
AuschieSo I went with the Intuition Power Wrap Liner, size 27. My Hawx are a a 27.5. I can’t fit the liner in the Shell, it sits flat but the bottom tongue stays flared open.
You have the Intuition Pro Wrap correct? Isn’t that the same volume as the Power Wrap but with more room in the toe box?
I am debating trying the Full Tilt Intuition Pro Wrap, which I believe is the same as the Intuition Pro Wrap, but I’m worried if it’s the same volume it also will not fit in the shell.
I actually misspoke. I am running the power wrap. Can you post a pic of the problem your having? Here are what mine look like closed.
**This post was edited on Jan 31st 2020 at 11:42:23pm
skeirmanI actually misspoke. I am running the power wrap. Can you post a pic of the problem your having? Here are what mine look like closed.
**This post was edited on Jan 31st 2020 at 11:42:23pm
So after seeing you had the same liner I tried again and was able to close them. I was worried about the plastic but it seems to work. However with my footbed in they are extremely tight and difficult to buckle. I might try to heat mold the liners tomorrow to create a bit more room. Idk if mine just fit differently because the shell was already heat/vacuum molded once, or that yours fit better since the liners weren’t brand new? I think I can make it work, just way more volume than I was originally expecting.
This is left foot in, I had to struggle to get the 3rd buckle over to close it up.
Below is fully buckled. Pretty much have the micro adjust as long as possible to get it to buckle, and I have skinny calves. It’s way too tight to comfortably ski, and that’s with the top buckle being as loose as I can make it.
AuschieSo after seeing you had the same liner I tried again and was able to close them. I was worried about the plastic but it seems to work. However with my footbed in they are extremely tight and difficult to buckle. I might try to heat mold the liners tomorrow to create a bit more room. Idk if mine just fit differently because the shell was already heat/vacuum molded once, or that yours fit better since the liners weren’t brand new? I think I can make it work, just way more volume than I was originally expecting.
This is left foot in, I had to struggle to get the 3rd buckle over to close it up.
Below is fully buckled. Pretty much have the micro adjust as long as possible to get it to buckle, and I have skinny calves. It’s way too tight to comfortably ski, and that’s with the top buckle being as loose as I can make it.
When I put them on at the hill they are super snug. I set all the buckles on the loosest setting, and the top two aren't that easy to close when I first put them on. After some walking and the first run or so I usually move all the buckles tighter by one notch. They definitely break in/loosen up/settle a little bit once you start skiing.
skeirmanWhen I put them on at the hill they are super snug. I set all the buckles on the loosest setting, and the top two aren't that easy to close when I first put them on. After some walking and the first run or so I usually move all the buckles tighter by one notch. They definitely break in/loosen up/settle a little bit once you start skiing.
Ah good to know. Thanks for all of the feedback. Really helpful. I’ll stick with them and see how it goes. I definitely like my boots tight so I think I’ll just need to get in them and ski a bit.
Super interesting thread! I got a new pair of 19/20 Hawx XTD 130 boots this season and think they're rad. Really impressed with the boots for what they're designed for. I'm due a new pair of alpine boots and the fit and flex characteristics of the Hawx XTD 130 has got me thinking that maybe an Atomic boot could be a good fit. Obviously i'll head to a bootfitter to try a bunch of stuff on but was wondering if you could help compare a bunch of boots for me/give me some advice on what I should try and look for.
Little background on myself. Height 6ft (183cm), weight 165lbs (75kg). Hate using the phrase but I guess i'd classify myself as "expert skier", BASI Level 4 ISTD instructor working in France. When i'm not teaching or touring I typically ski all over the mountain with a preference for steeps and bumps or if its a pow day, skiing fast and hucking cliffs. Also having done all the instructor exams and racing if the pistes are good i'll never say no to high angle carves and general hooning.
Current alpine boot is a 26.5 Lange RS 130 with either an Intuition Race FX or Powerwrap liner. I use the FX liner with the Lange Stock spoiler when skiing directional skis such as my Rossignol Hero Master R16 or 184cm Volkl Mantra 102s but for some reason I prefer the Powerwrap liners when skiing my 190cm Moment Bibbys on pow days.
I have a pretty wide foot (110mm if roughly measured with a tape measure) but the Memory Fit process for the XTD's worked very well. I did put a ton of foam all over the sides of my feet as well as a toe cap to make sure I stretched the shell as much as possible and it seems to have worked a treat. No discomfort other than the occasional blister on my right Achilles when touring. In terms of shell size I'm in a 26.5 and have about 1cm/one finger shell fit when my foot is put in the boot without a liner. I also have very skinny calves and the XTD seems more snug around my lower leg than the Langes.
What really confused me is when skiing the 184cm Mantra 102's (quite a burly ski) I preferred the XTD's over the Langes. Everything seemed easier/more natural with the Atomic's and it was easier to get over the shovels of the ski. It was a super cold day and I've always found that Langes become absolute bricks once the temps drop below -15 Celsius so that may have been the reason. However when skiing fast through chop I prefer the Langes as the XTD's don't seem to cope as well and I definitely felt like I was maxing out their flex.
My main questions are is the Hawx Ultra 130 S a noticeably more powerful boot than the XTD 130 or would I be better off looking at the Redster Club Sport 130? Does the Hawx Ultra 130s have a more consistent flex through different temps than the Redster? Also I ski the XTDs at the standard 15 degrees, do you think this is the reason I preferred skiing them on the Mantras over my Langes or do you think its the more forgiving flex over different temperature ranges? Also are both the Ultra 130s and Redsters more durable than the XTDs? I chewed up the toe and heel lugs of one of my XTD boots quite a bit when I blew up a shift binding skiing an icy gs course on my 108mm underfoot touring skis (I don't know why I thought that was a good idea).
Sorry about the length of post but I'm slowly loosing my mind over boots! Thanks for any advice.
jamie92My main questions are is the Hawx Ultra 130 S a noticeably more powerful boot than the XTD 130 or would I be better off looking at the Redster Club Sport 130? Does the Hawx Ultra 130s have a more consistent flex through different temps than the Redster? Also I ski the XTDs at the standard 15 degrees, do you think this is the reason I preferred skiing them on the Mantras over my Langes or do you think its the more forgiving flex over different temperature ranges? Also are both the Ultra 130s and Redsters more durable than the XTDs? I chewed up the toe and heel lugs of one of my XTD boots quite a bit when I blew up a shift binding skiing an icy gs course on my 108mm underfoot touring skis (I don't know why I thought that was a good idea).
The normal Ultra 130 S will be slightly more stiff/stable than the XTD 130 but not by much- they're a very similar construction/build (once the same type of liner is in each). The Club Sport will be a step beyond the Lange RS in terms of burly factor- it's a thick race boot that does not differ from the World Cup version by very much.
If you like how your Ultra XTD skis, then get the normal Ultra - that's exactly why we made the boots in the first place :)
Hey, so looking for advice. I weight 195lbs, and I have the Hawk 130s xtd and hawk 130s ultra and love both. My main problem is the hawk 130s ultra is too soft after 80 days of riding each winter. I have a foam injected liner in the boot which makes it amazing but my lateral stiffness just isn't good. What would people recommend? The Redster Club Sport 130? Can anyone confirm if 20/21 season the club sport willcome in a 98mm last instead of 96mm? Thanks
thetoadHey, so looking for advice. I weight 195lbs, and I have the Hawk 130s xtd and hawk 130s ultra and love both. My main problem is the hawk 130s ultra is too soft after 80 days of riding each winter. I have a foam injected liner in the boot which makes it amazing but my lateral stiffness just isn't good. What would people recommend? The Redster Club Sport 130? Can anyone confirm if 20/21 season the club sport willcome in a 98mm last instead of 96mm? Thanks
Redster Club Sport has a 96mm last in size 26/26.5
I can wear an Ultra out of the box with no boot work, but I need to grind a little bit in the navicular area with a Club Sport. That's the only thing my "Ultra" foot needs to make a Club Sport work.
If the Ultra isn't enough boot for you, the Club Sport definitely will. One of my all-time favorite boots.
I want to change my current alpine set for 21/22 Atomic Hawx Ultra 120. And probably will use it with zip fit liners.
is it safe for shells to mold the liner using follow method:
Boiling water. In a large stock pot, add around 1 inch of water and set it to boil. When it is boiling, add your ski boot shells upside down in the pot for a few minutes covered with a kitchen cloth so that the steam heats the shells. With the shells hot, insert the ZipFit liner with your footbed and foot into the shells. The heat from the shells will transfer to the liners and allow the OMfit cork to flow as needed.
I don’t want to change anything about shell fit. @onenerdykid what do you think about this?
severniyI want to change my current alpine set for 21/22 Atomic Hawx Ultra 120. And probably will use it with zip fit liners.
is it safe for shells to mold the liner using follow method:
Boiling water. In a large stock pot, add around 1 inch of water and set it to boil. When it is boiling, add your ski boot shells upside down in the pot for a few minutes covered with a kitchen cloth so that the steam heats the shells. With the shells hot, insert the ZipFit liner with your footbed and foot into the shells. The heat from the shells will transfer to the liners and allow the OMfit cork to flow as needed.
I don’t want to change anything about shell fit. @onenerdykid what do you think about this?
I definitely do not recommend doing this to your boot simply to fit a liner. First, boiling or steaming a shell is so fucking old school and problematic. Not only is this going to make your shell super wide, but you also run the risk of warping & twisting the sole/chassis of the boot.
This is the issue with many aftermarket liners - they were never developed with specific boots in mind and in order to get the liner to fit right, you have to fuck with the shell in a way that is the opposite direction the fitting process should take: make the shell look like your foot and then mold the liner to that shell. Having to the heat the shell in order to fit the liner is going to result in a shell that does not match your foot shape.
If you really want to have your mind blown, get a Mimic Professional liner for your Hawx Ultra. The fit will be totally custom to the exact millimeter of your foot, a tongue that is heat molded to your shin, and a carbon cuff that is heat molded around your leg. And it was developed for your boot. The only issue you will run into is finding them. We sold through almost all of our stock and getting a re-up is taking some time.
Looking for help and advice on how to lower flex on my Hawx Ultra 130.
Bought them almost three years ago and I absolutely love these boots. They were a little bit stiff for me but I was training a lot and I could see gradual progress in the way how I flex them as I was getting stronger. Unfortunately last year I had severe double knee injury during one of mountain bike races and I had to stop doing any sports for more than a year. Now I'm trying to get back to skiing and I realized that in my current shape I cannot flex 130 anymore and I find myself in back seat all the time. It's a shame but I have to admit that 130 flex is not feasible for me anymore. Thus I'm currently researching how I can lower flex and make boots less stiff, but very carefully, doing very small incremental adjustments.
I watched quite a few videos on how to cut lower but when I disassembled Ultras I was puzzled quite a bit.
It seems that outer side of lower looks pretty standard and there's a way to cut out 20mm of material to make boots softer:
However the inner side of lower looks quite different. Cuff bolt seats almost 25mm higher than on the outer side and there is no way I can remove 20mm of material. I afraid that shell might crack since edge will be very close to cuff bolt.
Thus I'm looking for an advice on the best way to lower flex specifically on Hawx Ultra 130. My goal is to go 10-20 points down and then may be even more by doing small adjustments one at a time.
Will appreciate any hints and information on the topic.
Looking for help and advice on how to lower flex on my Hawx Ultra 130.
Bought them almost three years ago and I absolutely love these boots. They were a little bit stiff for me but I was training a lot and I could see gradual progress in the way how I flex them as I was getting stronger. Unfortunately last year I had severe double knee injury during one of mountain bike races and I had to stop doing any sports for more than a year. Now I'm trying to get back to skiing and I realized that in my current shape I cannot flex 130 anymore and I find myself in back seat all the time. It's a shame but I have to admit that 130 flex is not feasible for me anymore. Thus I'm currently researching how I can lower flex and make boots less stiff, but very carefully, doing very small incremental adjustments.
I watched quite a few videos on how to cut lower but when I disassembled Ultras I was puzzled quite a bit.
It seems that outer side of lower looks pretty standard and there's a way to cut out 20mm of material to make boots softer:
However the inner side of lower looks quite different. Cuff bolt seats almost 25mm higher than on the outer side and there is no way I can remove 20mm of material. I afraid that shell might crack since edge will be very close to cuff bolt.
Thus I'm looking for an advice on the best way to lower flex specifically on Hawx Ultra 130. My goal is to go 10-20 points down and then may be even more by doing small adjustments one at a time.
Will appreciate any hints and information on the topic.
"With boots that have Power Shift (that metal thing on the back of the boot with the screw(s) in it), you want to:
-use both screws if you want the stiffer setting
-only use the bottom screw if you want the softer setting
-never remove both screws- always keep at least the bottom one in
If you want to go softer than the single screw option, the lower shell can be cut down but not by a lot. It's obviously thinner than a race boot (which you can cut deeply) and you need to take care there. Don't sneeze when doing it. It's also permanent, there's no going back."
-onenerdykid
By removing that top screw, you're supposed to be going from 130 to 120.
**This post was edited on Dec 14th 2021 at 11:03:23pm
Or may be it's better to work on bottom cuff strap than trying to cut down the lower. That's basically the question - I'm looking for advice on best options how to do it.
alexeygtOr may be it's better to work on bottom cuff strap than trying to cut down the lower. That's basically the question - I'm looking for advice on best options how to do it.
To be honest, it's tricky getting these boots softer by cutting them down - there's just not a lot of material in the lower shell. You can do a few millimeters on each side, but not a lot. he goal of softening a boot is to allow your body to arrive at the correct position while skiing, and there are a few ways you can achieve that aside from softening the lower shell. You can cut down the front of the cuff a bit and this will allow you to get your knees more forward more easily. You can also experiment with heel wedges/lifts depending on how much volume is in your boot.
