Mounting Your Own Bindings

I oftentimes mount my own skis, you can buy the correct drill bits online (I forget where). the correct drill bit will have a smaller diameter on the end to drill the actual hole then step up in size so you can't drill through the ski. there are a few sizes and diameters for this, and google should be able to point you in the right direction as to which one you need, it varies ski to ski and binding to binding. With a little creative googling you could probably find these dimensions and apply them to your drill press. My best advice for mounting this way is to be EXTREMELY careful with those paper templates. They like to shift and mis-align.... check, double check, triple check then check about five more times because it really sucks to find that your holes are 0.5 mm off and your bindings will not go on your brand new skis (speaking from experience here) or find that your bindings are duck footed when you are done. check your print scaling as well. most paper templates come with a way to do this. you do not want your hole pattern to be 96% the size it should be. It is critical that you get the two pieces straight with Dukes otherwise they will not go from tour mode into ski mode, and even a small degree of variation will mess it up. As for where on the ski to mount the bindings, there should be a center line and a recommended mounting line on the graphic or sidewall. I usually extend this line using a sharpie and cut a small diamond out of the center of the mounting template to help me align things. Once your holes are drilled, drop some wood glue in those suckers and screw your bindings in BY HAND. power drills can be too powerful when putting in screws and strip the holes, which makes that connection pretty much worthless, and usually causes you to have to remount or place a heli coil in your ski, both of which are not great options.

I learned to mount on a couple sets of broken skis, and it was super helpful to try it a couple times before committing to skis that are actually going to be used. If you don't have access to dumpster skis then 2x4s will sometimes do the trick to help you get the alignment thing down. do not screw the bindings in with a power drill here or you can break off the heads of the screws (the 2x4 will not strip as easily as your skis) and then you are slightly boned. also if you are not 100% sure about a mount (regardless if it comes from you or a shop) you should not ride the skis. you rely on that connection too much for it to be sketchy....

home mounting can also void warranties.


tl:dr - it can be done but is not easy or fast. generally better to take them to a ski shop where they have a jig and the knowhow and bum some sticks from a buddy or use an old set while the boards are in the shop.

WattMoodI oftentimes mount my own skis, you can buy the correct drill bits online (I forget where). the correct drill bit will have a smaller diameter on the end to drill the actual hole then step up in size so you can't drill through the ski. there are a few sizes and diameters for this, and google should be able to point you in the right direction as to which one you need, it varies ski to ski and binding to binding. With a little creative googling you could probably find these dimensions and apply them to your drill press. My best advice for mounting this way is to be EXTREMELY careful with those paper templates. They like to shift and mis-align.... check, double check, triple check then check about five more times because it really sucks to find that your holes are 0.5 mm off and your bindings will not go on your brand new skis (speaking from experience here) or find that your bindings are duck footed when you are done. check your print scaling as well. most paper templates come with a way to do this. you do not want your hole pattern to be 96% the size it should be. It is critical that you get the two pieces straight with Dukes otherwise they will not go from tour mode into ski mode, and even a small degree of variation will mess it up. As for where on the ski to mount the bindings, there should be a center line and a recommended mounting line on the graphic or sidewall. I usually extend this line using a sharpie and cut a small diamond out of the center of the mounting template to help me align things. Once your holes are drilled, drop some wood glue in those suckers and screw your bindings in BY HAND. power drills can be too powerful when putting in screws and strip the holes, which makes that connection pretty much worthless, and usually causes you to have to remount or place a heli coil in your ski, both of which are not great options.

I learned to mount on a couple sets of broken skis, and it was super helpful to try it a couple times before committing to skis that are actually going to be used. If you don't have access to dumpster skis then 2x4s will sometimes do the trick to help you get the alignment thing down. do not screw the bindings in with a power drill here or you can break off the heads of the screws (the 2x4 will not strip as easily as your skis) and then you are slightly boned. also if you are not 100% sure about a mount (regardless if it comes from you or a shop) you should not ride the skis. you rely on that connection too much for it to be sketchy....

home mounting can also void warranties.


tl:dr - it can be done but is not easy or fast. generally better to take them to a ski shop where they have a jig and the knowhow and bum some sticks from a buddy or use an old set while the boards are in the shop.

Hey thanks a bunch!

It's not that hard. Make sure the scale on the template is good, know how to find a center line, have a few clamps and you should be good. A 3.6 X 9 bit is standard, use wood glue and don't overthink it. Also punch the holes before you drill and it makes it easier. A few mm won't make a huge difference so don't sweat it. Center line should be marked on the ski, if not just use a tape measure.

I do all my mounts with a hand drill, drill bit that looks about right, a paper template and some tape. You want a 3.6mm drill bit and a posidrive #2 screwdriver. To get the right drill depth just wrap some tape around the drill bit at the same depth that the screw will go into the ski. I like to put a little dab of epoxy on the end of the screws and then screw them in but some people say no epoxy, it certainly makes the mount stronger. The template should have a centering ruler and when you align the heel piece sheet with the toe piece sheet at the proper bsl, that point where the two sheets come together is your boot center and you can then align that with the -2 mark on your ski. Tape the template in the right place then take a punch and hammer and punch the topsheet at all the little targets and you're ready to drill.