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Binding Adjustment

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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
Hi I got new boots for my new skis and now want to fit the boots to my old skis. I have marker squires as bindings and don't want to go to a shop to adjust them. The boots are only a little long so is there a way to move to heel piece back slightly. Also wondering how to adjust the din.

If anyone can help me please answer ASAP
THANKS
Nov 16 2014 4:36PM
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Severinsen
Posts: 12 - Karma: 23
Congratulations on your new boots.

Depending on how much longer the new boots are compared to your old ones (a few mm should be fine), you can adjust the "length" of the binding by loosening the foward pressure.

That being said, I highly recommend you to take your skis and boots to a shop, since you have no experience in adjusting bindings. It's not to appear judgemental, but the fact that you don't even know where and what the DIN screw is, i wouldn't hesitate handing it over to a professional instead. And please don't start fooling around with your DIN's unless you know what you're doing, you're better off a few dollars poorer but with intact knees, than the other way around.

Should you prove hell-bent on adjusting them yourself, check out this guide:

http://theskimonster.com/blog/posts/how-to-adjust-your-marker-ski-bindings/

Best of luck.
Nov 16 2014 5:31PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
SeverinsenCongratulations on your new boots.

Depending on how much longer the new boots are compared to your old ones (a few mm should be fine), you can adjust the "length" of the binding by loosening the foward pressure.

That being said, I highly recommend you to take your skis and boots to a shop, since you have no experience in adjusting bindings. It's not to appear judgemental, but the fact that you don't even know where and what the DIN screw is, i wouldn't hesitate handing it over to a professional instead. And please don't start fooling around with your DIN's unless you know what you're doing, you're better off a few dollars poorer but with intact knees, than the other way around.

Should you prove hell-bent on adjusting them yourself, check out this guide:

http://theskimonster.com/blog/posts/how-to-adjust-your-marker-ski-bindings/

Best of luck.

They are just some old better skis so I don't want to spend the money to get they adjusted if it's easy enough to do. Thanks
Nov 16 2014 5:36PM
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Bucklay
Posts: 167 - Karma: 917
The Markers usually have the screw like ^^^ said for adjusting to the length of the boot you can do that at home but for your DIN settings take it in to the shop, don't need you breaking your knees in half.
Nov 16 2014 5:36PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
The screw all the in the back of heel piece will make it a little looser? I know which screws to turn for din but I'm wondering if I should do front and back and what to do them to (in 6 ft 155lb and ski aggressive)
Nov 16 2014 5:39PM
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Severinsen
Posts: 12 - Karma: 23
Consult the guide i linked to you for visual approval - but yes, it is not the screw in the end of the "dildo"part of the heel, it is the horizontal screw in the back of baseplate - unscrewing it a bit will loosening the foward pressure makes more space between heel- and toepice - hopefully ample room for your know boots.

As of what DIN you should be using, I wonder what makes you want to use a new setting? Since they are older skis and binders, they have already been setup for you, so unless you have progressed alot or was/is prereleasing some bit, I would recommend you to keep the DINs as they are (or where, if they have been untightened during winter), especially as we are just entering preseason, where you'll have to get your body dialed back in before cranking back up the equipment.
Nov 16 2014 5:49PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
SeverinsenConsult the guide i linked to you for visual approval - but yes, it is not the screw in the end of the "dildo"part of the heel, it is the horizontal screw in the back of baseplate - unscrewing it a bit will loosening the foward pressure makes more space between heel- and toepice - hopefully ample room for your know boots.

As of what DIN you should be using, I wonder what makes you want to use a new setting? Since they are older skis and binders, they have already been setup for you, so unless you have progressed alot or was/is prereleasing some bit, I would recommend you to keep the DINs as they are (or where, if they have been untightened during winter), especially as we are just entering preseason, where you'll have to get your body dialed back in before cranking back up the equipment.


It did prerelease and it seems really low I got them when I was a lot smaller and never increased the din
Nov 16 2014 6:49PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
cagro25jay25It did prerelease and it seems really low I got them when I was a lot smaller and never increased the din


For a quick adjustment like your trying to make just take them to a shop. Most places should just do it if it's a forward pressure adjustment but if not at most it will be like $10. Just do it that way $10 is not worth getting it wrong and potentially injuring yourself for. If the shop are cool tey may show you how to do it so in the future you can do it yourself but for the first time get someone to show you, don't just try to figure it out.
Nov 16 2014 8:30PM
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s-hand
Posts: 1334 - Karma: 1,800
cagro25jay25The boots are only a little long so is there a way to move to heel piece back slightly. Also wondering how to adjust the din.


Not trying to be mean or anything, but if you have to ask these two questions, I really would not recommend doing your own binding adjustments. Go to a shop, or at least to someone who does know what they are doing.
Nov 16 2014 10:54PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
Just did it and my boots now fit in the bindings. Last question should my heel din be the same as my toe?
Nov 17 2014 2:48PM
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Severinsen
Posts: 12 - Karma: 23
That's a tricky question to answer. For most factory new bindings the answer would be yes, but as you binding has seen some use, you wouldn't really know unless you had it tested and set by a shop. Some people tend to set their toe-DIN lower, while most have the same DIN throughout. Again, i recommend you do not fiddle with the current DIN unless you have had a lot of prereleases, and if so do not jump massively up the scale. Start slowly and see what works for you.
Nov 17 2014 3:03PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
cagro25jay25Just did it and my boots now fit in the bindings. Last question should my heel din be the same as my toe?


Be aware a boot may go into a binding even when it's improperly set up. Don't assume they are right just because your boot goes in. Have you checked the forward pressure?
Nov 17 2014 4:59PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
tomPietrowskiBe aware a boot may go into a binding even when it's improperly set up. Don't assume they are right just because your boot goes in. Have you checked the forward pressure?


Yes I loosened the forward pressure enough so the boot would fit in and then tightened it while to boot was in it
Nov 17 2014 5:35PM
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JibbaTheHutt
Posts: 2132 - Karma: 1,597
cagro25jay25Yes I loosened the forward pressure enough so the boot would fit in and then tightened it while to boot was in it


that screw wants to be flush to the housing when the boot is in the binding, if its pointing out
, the forward pressure is to loose, if it is recessed, the forward pressure is too tight, which could mean bad times for your knees.
Nov 17 2014 6:01PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
JibbaTheHuttthat screw wants to be flush to the housing when the boot is in the binding, if its pointing out
, the forward pressure is to loose, if it is recessed, the forward pressure is too tight, which could mean bad times for your knees.


It is not directly flush because when it is my boot doesn't fit that was the point in loosening it
Nov 17 2014 6:03PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
cagro25jay25It is not directly flush because when it is my boot doesn't fit that was the point in loosening it


It needs to be flush if it's not then the forward pressure is not correct and the biding will not release as intended. I really would advise goin to have someone show you how it should be.
Nov 17 2014 10:07PM
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cagro25jay25
Posts: 84 - Karma: 45
tomPietrowskiIt needs to be flush if it's not then the forward pressure is not correct and the biding will not release as intended. I really would advise goin to have someone show you how it should be.

How does that make any sense the binding is made to have some travel so you can make minor adjustments and BTW when the shop did my old boots to the bindings I skied 2 years with out it being dir3ctly flush
Nov 18 2014 5:54AM
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Caucasian_Asian
Posts: 2447 - Karma: 1,665
cagro25jay25How does that make any sense the binding is made to have some travel so you can make minor adjustments and BTW when the shop did my old boots to the bindings I skied 2 years with out it being dir3ctly flush


If you understood what he was talking about, then it would make sense. Since you didn't want to take the best advice(which is take them into a shop), he TRIED to explain it to you.

So here is a different answer:

You got your boot into the binding. Great. Is it adjusted correctly? Who knows. Will it work properly? It might.
Nov 18 2014 9:15AM
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