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10,din and below bindings: I would recommend a 10 din and under binding for light weight skiers. Even for a skier who is rates themselves as level III ability, if they are under about 120lbs a 10 din might even be a bit much depending on the min setting of the binding. For reference, a din chart estimates a din of 6 (varies slightly depending on a few factors) for a level III skier between 108-125lbs.
10/11 Din er’s:
-Tyrolia Peak 11 (3-11)
-Rossignol freeski 100
-Look PX 10
-Look P10
-Rossi SAS 100
-head Mojo 11
-Rossi SAS2 110
*this is copied from the thread “the answer to “what bindin"."
(This is just what he says about 10 din bindings. I think a 10 din would be good but don't just go hybthis do some research read reviews) good luck finding a good binding for you
There are two things that are important to consider:
>Brake width. The bindings should be pretty close in width to the waist of your ski (the narrow middle section of the ski). Evo recommends a binding that is equal or up to 15mm wider. If you have to, you can go a few mm narrower and bend them, but it's not ideal.
>DIN. First, calculate your DIN using a DIN chart. Then find a binding with your DIN around the middle. For example, if your DIN is 6, you want a binding with a range of something like 3-12. You do NOT want a binding with a range of 1-6, or 6-16, or something like that. It's best to have your DIN around the middle of the binding, not the highest or lowest it can go.
There are specialized bindings such as AT (alpine touring), etc, but you don't have to worry about that. Just get some standard bindings.