Detuning Edges for Rails?!!??!?!

I don't really care, I detune them by sliding on features. However, the easiest way is by scrubbing a cork or a piece of wood up and down your edges. Even without detuning you'll be good after a few days on rails.

Whatever you do DO NOT use a file when detuning your edges. use a gummy stone, They aren't very expenisve, and the work wonders at keeping your edges smooth and dull.

http://www.artechski.com/2014-swix-gummi-stones-7724.aspx#.UsnlOfRDtyQ&gsc.tab=0

If you're not hitting big wide ass boxes you would probably want to detune just underfoot.

why per say?

this is near enough what i do too, I use a file and gummi on the contact points to do a light detune, really helps not catch on butters. Then I go in to the ski shop and detune underfoot using the belt sander. I detune 1 inch longer than the binding length with the sander, then 'fade' the detune with a file so there isnt a sharp transition between sharp edge and totally rounded.

All in all it leaves me with give or take 30 cm sharp edge in front/behind the binding to keep some grip but for park skis thats all I need. It doesn't get icy often where I ski so it isnt too bad.

I use a file on mine all the time...if you're only detuning underfoot (the part that's going to get fucked by rails anyways) what does it matter if you use a file or not...in fact a proper detune can make your edges last longer while hitting rails.

Here's my standard detune for new skis:

Step 1) Metal file underfoot to round out the edges, go from toe piece to heel piece, the goal isn't to take off a bunch of metal, it's about making round. How do you make a square round? By "rolling" the file, instead of keeping the file on a 45* angle to the edges constantly change the angle while filing, this will make the edge rounder without taking off too much metal from the edge.

Step 2) Gummy stone from tip to tail, going heavy in rockered sections (if you have rockered park skis), very light in contact areas, and heavy again underfoot. This will remove any burs on the edges, help prevent hooking in the rockered sections and make a smoother transition from sharp edge to detuned edge.

Step 3) This step is fully optional, and is kinda oxymoronic, but I sharpen the area from binding to rockered section (or tip), just a couple passes, nothing crazy, just enough to give me some control while carving. A lot of people think I weird for this part, and I even I second think it all the time, but I find that I get more control with the skis while carving when I do this vs not doing it.

Best response by far, not to say everyone else was not helpful, because you were. Thank you for giving me a better understanding of the whole process and breaking it down for me as simply as possible. I'm planning on using your rolling method 2-3 inches in front of my toe piece and behind my heel. Then i'll do what you said by hitting it with some gummy stone action.

Some good advice here... A 2* base bevel wouldn't hurt as well...