Just run em bro, that scratch is tiny

What did you hit? That's a big one.

I can't tell from the pic how deep it is...is it just the ptex that's peeled off basically? Or is it into wood?

What skis are they?

Cut the area to clean it up. Baseweld then ptex

Thats a nasty one. For best results, take them to the shop and pay the 45$ to fix them.

For worst results, go to the shop amd ask for P-tex rods. They look like expensive candles without the wick. Light one end of the rod with a lighter until a blue flame appears and is self sustaining. Clean the scratch and drizzle the molten p-tex in the gash. Remove the air with a hard surface and let it cool. With a metal scraper, remove excess p-tex. Then repeat every 2 months.

Metal grip then ptex

Non_State_ActorWhat did you hit? That's a big one.

I can't tell from the pic how deep it is...is it just the ptex that's peeled off basically? Or is it into wood?

What skis are they?

Its just the base material that came off and maybe a bit deeper. Idk what I hit I didn’t notice it and they’re line sick days pls don’t bully me.

I just sent this to a buddy a couple days ago for a home repair.

Using your propane torch or butane lighter, fire up one tip of the P-Tex candle.

Wait until it's flaming (this may take a couple of minutes). Black carbon flakes will appear in the burning tip. Don't let them get into your bases because they will cause the P-Tex to bond poorly. To get them out of the way, let the candle drip onto the metal scraper and roll the tip around until it's clear and carbon-free. Keeping the flame low and blue instead of big and yellow will keep carbon at bay.

Move the molten P-Tex candle to the gouge. Hold it close to the surface and let it flow into the hole. Start at the far edge so it pools in the middle. The P-Tex will shrink as it cools, so overfill it.

Do a second round if necessary then extinguish the flame.

Let the P-Tex cool about 15 minutes.

Take a sharpened metal scraper with a 90-degree edge and hold it at a 45-degree angle. Use short, overlapping strokes to remove all material that is sticking up above the base of the ski or snowboard. You can go in either direction, whatever works best.

When the P-Tex is smooth and flush with the base, you're ready to wax and then go hit the mountain.

There's videos on YouTube to help on this too, I just didn't look 'em up..

midwestcoastI just sent this to a buddy a couple days ago for a home repair.

Using your propane torch or butane lighter, fire up one tip of the P-Tex candle.

Wait until it's flaming (this may take a couple of minutes). Black carbon flakes will appear in the burning tip. Don't let them get into your bases because they will cause the P-Tex to bond poorly. To get them out of the way, let the candle drip onto the metal scraper and roll the tip around until it's clear and carbon-free. Keeping the flame low and blue instead of big and yellow will keep carbon at bay.

Move the molten P-Tex candle to the gouge. Hold it close to the surface and let it flow into the hole. Start at the far edge so it pools in the middle. The P-Tex will shrink as it cools, so overfill it.

Do a second round if necessary then extinguish the flame.

Let the P-Tex cool about 15 minutes.

Take a sharpened metal scraper with a 90-degree edge and hold it at a 45-degree angle. Use short, overlapping strokes to remove all material that is sticking up above the base of the ski or snowboard. You can go in either direction, whatever works best.

When the P-Tex is smooth and flush with the base, you're ready to wax and then go hit the mountain.

There's videos on YouTube to help on this too, I just didn't look 'em up..

Thanks, will try

ski bum fix- clean up core shot edges and fill with quality two part epoxy (might get you through the season)

Pro Fix- buy pieces of sheet base material from local shop, or order online. Cut out patch from material. trace patch shape onto base. cut out patch shape from ski base. epoxy and clamp patch into place. scrape flat once dry.

this pic shows both types of fixes...