Did you find the longways center line of the ski. If not, definitely do that and then line the template up. I’ve mounted multiple pairs of skis w paper templates so if u have any questions dm me I can probs help

How do you usually do that? I was just thinking of ways but realized easiest is probably to ask ha

keagan.karstensDid you find the longways center line of the ski. If not, definitely do that and then line the template up. I’ve mounted multiple pairs of skis w paper templates so if u have any questions dm me I can probs help

horizontal centerline is def the hardest part with paper templates, when I was using those I'd just use a clear plastic ruler and measure like 30 times before taping the template on, then measure like 30 more, and also tap all the holes before drilling.

I place a big piece of blue painters tape down the middle of the whole mount area, and about a foot beyond it. I mark the tape up with a very fine sharpie.

Then i take a square, a ruler with a 90 degree agle in it, and I measure a silimar amount from both edges. If the middle is about 4cm in I measure 4cm from the left, then 4cm from the right and make little dots there. then I make a third dot exactly between them to get the exact center.

I do this about a foot infront of the binding and a foot behind. then I use a yardstick and carefully connect the dots down the center.

I also measure the length and find that exact center.

I have always found that the paper templates are wrong. I exhaustively measure all the holes myself.

It would be very easy for a shop to use their jig to drill exactly, but they don't. They spend like one second lining up their jig so that comes out crooked too, or one foot in front of the other.

BradFiAusNzCoCaSo I’m trying to mount some attacks on some older skis that I bought to experiment with. I have a paper template. Here’s my issue: I can not think of a way to ensure the toe is 100% straight. I drilled today and the toe was a bit crooked aka angled one way. Does anyone have any tips?

Do you havea link for the template?

I tried the binding freedom template but found it a little sloppy. I’ve been using this one. I’ve found the heel pattern is EVER so slightly off so I have to double check the 4th hole

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/1lpDx4-8PF44Pc08HHNyYY6Gg2a3Dd245

2nd to last one - thought it would link but it just linked the list

mystery3Do you havea link for the template?

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 1:11:00am

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 1:11:15am

Center line has helped a lot. Think I finally got it squared away after exhaustive measuring and messing around. Got tired and decided to table it for when more plugs can arrive to plug the holes I botched.

I downloaded a center line template and I measured a bunch. Realized it’s worthless. Finally had some headway when I hand measured myself across the ski at multiple points. It’s exhausting trying to be within 0.5mm.

I have been using some brown painters tape laid down over the ski. It has helped a lot with seeing old holes and imposing template and center line on ski

keagan.karstensDid you find the longways center line of the ski. If not, definitely do that and then line the template up. I’ve mounted multiple pairs of skis w paper templates so if u have any questions dm me I can probs help

sarcI place a big piece of blue painters tape down the middle of the whole mount area, and about a foot beyond it. I mark the tape up with a very fine sharpie.

Then i take a square, a ruler with a 90 degree agle in it, and I measure a silimar amount from both edges. If the middle is about 4cm in I measure 4cm from the left, then 4cm from the right and make little dots there. then I make a third dot exactly between them to get the exact center.

I do this about a foot infront of the binding and a foot behind. then I use a yardstick and carefully connect the dots down the center.

I also measure the length and find that exact center.

I have always found that the paper templates are wrong. I exhaustively measure all the holes myself.

It would be very easy for a shop to use their jig to drill exactly, but they don't. They spend like one second lining up their jig so that comes out crooked too, or one foot in front of the other.

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 10:06:01pm

You could try snapping a chalk line to get the centerline, then measure and double check it

Thought about it briefly but didn’t have one on hand

elm.You could try snapping a chalk line to get the centerline, then measure and double check it

Get a speed square. A plastic one at Home Depot is like 4 bucks. You put the flat edge on one edge of the top sheet, and draw a line along the 45 side of the speed square. Flip the speed square over to the other side and do the same thing on the opposite side top edge . Where the two 45 lines cross, that’s the exact center. Do above the toe area and again in the heel area. You should have 2 “X’s” on the ski. Connect the center points of the “x’s”. And you’ll have your centerline.

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:51:43pm

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:52:58pm

But will it affect it that edges/topsheet are never straight on skis given the sidecut?

teamdummyGet a speed square. A plastic one at Home Depot is like 4 bucks. You put the flat edge on one edge of the top sheet, and draw a line along the 45 side of the speed square. Flip the speed square over to the other side and do the same thing on the opposite side top edge . Where the two 45 lines cross, that’s the exact center. Do above the toe area and again in the heel area. You should have 2 “X’s” on the ski. Connect the center points of the “x’s”. And you’ll have your centerline.

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:51:43pm

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:52:58pm

For me, a set of digital calipers are essential for measuring hole placement BEFORE you drill. Only like 20 bucks at Harbour Freight or similar.

You’re not wrong, but unless you’re got a K2 marksman or another asymmetric ski, it works just fine.

BradFiAusNzCoCaBut will it affect it that edges/topsheet are never straight on skis given the sidecut?

teamdummyGet a speed square. A plastic one at Home Depot is like 4 bucks. You put the flat edge on one edge of the top sheet, and draw a line along the 45 side of the speed square. Flip the speed square over to the other side and do the same thing on the opposite side top edge . Where the two 45 lines cross, that’s the exact center. Do above the toe area and again in the heel area. You should have 2 “X’s” on the ski. Connect the center points of the “x’s”. And you’ll have your centerline.

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:51:43pm

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:52:58pm

Hey that's fantastic. I'm going to update my process to use this....

Maybe it was my speed square, I used a metal one my dad had, I just could not get an accurate center point. It was about 5mm off every time I measured. I tried it a lot and even looked at YouTube. Idk. Just didn’t get accurate measurement. The best I found was hand measuring to within 0.5mm which is the most tedious thing in the world.

I do agree the digital calipers would make my life easier. I almost bought some but I was wondering if the calipers will make it difficult to pick up topsheet as opposed to base and edge because the sidewalls are slanted at, what looks like, a 78 degree. The skis are made in NS factory. Old RMUs. I was having issues with hole overlap but realized they are symmetrical so flipped them around!

First ski mounted. Just waiting on plugs to plug holes and mount second ski.

teamdummyGet a speed square. A plastic one at Home Depot is like 4 bucks. You put the flat edge on one edge of the top sheet, and draw a line along the 45 side of the speed square. Flip the speed square over to the other side and do the same thing on the opposite side top edge . Where the two 45 lines cross, that’s the exact center. Do above the toe area and again in the heel area. You should have 2 “X’s” on the ski. Connect the center points of the “x’s”. And you’ll have your centerline.

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:51:43pm

**This post was edited on Sep 6th 2021 at 11:52:58pm

teamdummyFor me, a set of digital calipers are essential for measuring hole placement BEFORE you drill. Only like 20 bucks at Harbour Freight or similar.

teamdummyYou’re not wrong, but unless you’re got a K2 marksman or another asymmetric ski, it works just fine.

Also wanted to say I picked up a drill guide from Lowe’s for $10. I’d say it’s helped a lot.

keagan.karstensDid you find the longways center line of the ski. If not, definitely do that and then line the template up. I’ve mounted multiple pairs of skis w paper templates so if u have any questions dm me I can probs help

a_burgerhorizontal centerline is def the hardest part with paper templates, when I was using those I'd just use a clear plastic ruler and measure like 30 times before taping the template on, then measure like 30 more, and also tap all the holes before drilling.

sarcI place a big piece of blue painters tape down the middle of the whole mount area, and about a foot beyond it. I mark the tape up with a very fine sharpie.

Then i take a square, a ruler with a 90 degree agle in it, and I measure a silimar amount from both edges. If the middle is about 4cm in I measure 4cm from the left, then 4cm from the right and make little dots there. then I make a third dot exactly between them to get the exact center.

I do this about a foot infront of the binding and a foot behind. then I use a yardstick and carefully connect the dots down the center.

I also measure the length and find that exact center.

I have always found that the paper templates are wrong. I exhaustively measure all the holes myself.

It would be very easy for a shop to use their jig to drill exactly, but they don't. They spend like one second lining up their jig so that comes out crooked too, or one foot in front of the other.