Well, I screwed the pooch several ways trying my first binding mount, and let the skis sit in shame in the corner for a season but I want them now... I mis measured, used the wrong drill bit, etc. Filled up the holes a couple days ago with fiberglass resin, and topped off with some wood glue after the resin seeped into the ski leaving a void near hole tops.... so now, what to do? Mounting at -2 (-6 total) looks to be the rational option, giving pretty good space between new and old holes... or I could pray and remount center....
There's a good TGR thread about how to mount near old holes. Can be filled with hardwood, epoxy, toothpicks, steel wool, etc. With the BC 120, the plug will probably hold a screw better than the ski did originally haha. But -6 won't be the end of the world on that ski at all if that's the best way to run it hole overlap wise. Redeem yourself and go ski those sweet sticks!
I looked at it again and think I will try center; I did fill the holes with epoxy. The rearmost two holes on each rear binding will be very close to old holes but I think I will :). Thanks for the advice!
cydwhitThere's a good TGR thread about how to mount near old holes. Can be filled with hardwood, epoxy, toothpicks, steel wool, etc. With the BC 120, the plug will probably hold a screw better than the ski did originally haha. But -6 won't be the end of the world on that ski at all if that's the best way to run it hole overlap wise. Redeem yourself and go ski those sweet sticks!
shedddWell, I screwed the pooch several ways trying my first binding mount, and let the skis sit in shame in the corner for a season but I want them now... I mis measured, used the wrong drill bit, etc. Filled up the holes a couple days ago with fiberglass resin, and topped off with some wood glue after the resin seeped into the ski leaving a void near hole tops.... so now, what to do? Mounting at -2 (-6 total) looks to be the rational option, giving pretty good space between new and old holes... or I could pray and remount center....
I stripped another damn hole; it took very little torque; I quickly tried a heli coil kit and that surprisingly went well so yay they are mounted and will hopefully hold and be waterproof all over. Ended up going with -5 from center.
shedddI stripped another damn hole; it took very little torque; I quickly tried a heli coil kit and that surprisingly went well so yay they are mounted and will hopefully hold and be waterproof all over. Ended up going with -5 from center.
How high are you running the clutch on your drill when you use it to screw in the screw? On a ski without metal I only go as high as 12 or 13, then hand tighten afterward.
.nastyHow high are you running the clutch on your drill when you use it to screw in the screw? On a ski without metal I only go as high as 12 or 13, then hand tighten afterward.
For a home mount, or any mount for that matter, why not do the whole thing by hand? Hand snug, then torque to spec with a torque driver?
mystery3For a home mount, or any mount for that matter, why not do the whole thing by hand? Hand snug, then torque to spec with a torque driver?
I mount a good 5-10 pairs of skis a day, if I used only a posi and no drill it would be hell. Also, it's often that hand snug is already more than the torque setting (I and most techs will tell you that the official torque spec isn't enough, most the time it doesn't even get the binding to sit flush on the ski).
For a home mount, sure that wouldn't be a bad idea.
.nastyHow high are you running the clutch on your drill when you use it to screw in the screw? On a ski without metal I only go as high as 12 or 13, then hand tighten afterward.
I did by hand... maybe next time I should try the clutch!
shedddI did by hand... maybe next time I should try the clutch!
I mean like I said above, I'd probably go all by hand if I didn't have to mount so many.
Guess you just got a little excited is all! haha It happens, especially on these super light skis with soft cores that don't have some sort of phenol plate.
.nastyI mount a good 5-10 pairs of skis a day, if I used only a posi and no drill it would be hell. Also, it's often that hand snug is already more than the torque setting (I and most techs will tell you that the official torque spec isn't enough, most the time it doesn't even get the binding to sit flush on the ski).For a home mount, sure that wouldn't be a bad idea.
What's the typical tq spec? ~4nm? I've only done two pairs.
mystery3What's the typical tq spec? ~4nm? I've only done two pairs.
yeah 4.5nm is a common all around spec. Some say up to 5nm.
My previous comment isn't for all skis either, some will be perfect with that amount of torque, others not so much.