Out of curiosity, why are you adjusting them? To my knowledge, almost all boots fit into STH2s without adjustment.

I would take them to a shop though if you have never done it before

I have the sth 2 and haven't adjusted them. Definitely take them to a shop man!

super straight forward, if you're not a moron you can do it at home. the bigger thing is it sounds like you bought the skis online and had them mounted without your boots, you're going to want to check your forward pressure

.MASSHOLE.Out of curiosity, why are you adjusting them? To my knowledge, almost all boots fit into STH2s without adjustment.

I would take them to a shop though if you have never done it before

Are you familiar at all with Solly bindings? The driver toes need the wings adjusted so that they are snug to the boot sides, and the toe height adjusted as well.

Basic overview of the STH2 adjustments- been doing it all season for my own and friends skis. Adjust bindings at your own risk- but it's not that hard to do. However, most guys should probably not adjust their own bindings.

First widen the wing adjustment with the single pozi/phillips screw (turn counter clockwise) on the side of the toe wing (STH2 has one screw which opens/closes both wings simultaneously, older STH bindings have a screw for each side). Now use a flat head screwdriver to lower the toe height by turning the top flat head screw counterclockwise. These steps prevent you from jamming the boot it and putting unnecessary stress on the moving parts because they are set too tight for your particular boot.

Now, time to set the forward pressure. With the front of the boot seated in the toe piece, the heel of the boot should just brush the back of the heel cup as a baseline length. You can move the heel forward and back on its track with the phillips/pozi screw at the bottom on the rear of the heel piece. Push the heel down to click it into the binding. The rear screw head needs to be flush with the plastic around it. if it's sticking out, the heel needs to be moved forward. If it's further in than flush the heel needs to be moved back.

DO NOT touch the forward pressure screw while the boot is clicked into the bindings!!! Every time you need to move the heel piece, pop the boot out, turn the screw, then click it back in and check.

After you have it flush- go back to the toe piece. First set the AFD height. Solly has instructions with their thin waxy paper, to fold it and then put the paper under the boot toe. Click the boot in- the paper should be able to slide out just barely- without ripping.

That is somewhat of a pain- I have been just using a index card- and then make it so its pretty hard to pull out but not that hard. It's a feel thing- I did the Solly method first then compared that to how hard it should be to pull and index card at the proper height, then just remember that feel.

If you look under the boot, their is usually a little bit of light showing through in the middle between the AFD and boot sole.

Once that's set, go to wing width. The boot should currently be able to move slightly side to side. All you do is turn the side screw clockwise until the resistance goes way up- then back off like 1/16 of a turn.

If that's confusing, good. Go to a shop and let them set your bindings up.

MuggydudeAre you familiar at all with Solly bindings? The driver toes need the wings adjusted so that they are snug to the boot sides, and the toe height adjusted as well.

Basic overview of the STH2 adjustments- been doing it all season for my own and friends skis. Adjust bindings at your own risk- but it's not that hard to do. However, most guys should probably not adjust their own bindings.

First widen the wing adjustment with the single pozi/phillips screw (turn counter clockwise) on the side of the toe wing (STH2 has one screw which opens/closes both wings simultaneously, older STH bindings have a screw for each side). Now use a flat head screwdriver to lower the toe height by turning the top flat head screw counterclockwise. These steps prevent you from jamming the boot it and putting unnecessary stress on the moving parts because they are set too tight for your particular boot.

Now, time to set the forward pressure. With the front of the boot seated in the toe piece, the heel of the boot should just brush the back of the heel cup as a baseline length. You can move the heel forward and back on its track with the phillips/pozi screw at the bottom on the rear of the heel piece. Push the heel down to click it into the binding. The rear screw head needs to be flush with the plastic around it. if it's sticking out, the heel needs to be moved forward. If it's further in than flush the heel needs to be moved back.

DO NOT touch the forward pressure screw while the boot is clicked into the bindings!!! Every time you need to move the heel piece, pop the boot out, turn the screw, then click it back in and check.

After you have it flush- go back to the toe piece. First set the AFD height. Solly has instructions with their thin waxy paper, to fold it and then put the paper under the boot toe. Click the boot in- the paper should be able to slide out just barely- without ripping.

That is somewhat of a pain- I have been just using a index card- and then make it so its pretty hard to pull out but not that hard. It's a feel thing- I did the Solly method first then compared that to how hard it should be to pull and index card at the proper height, then just remember that feel.

If you look under the boot, their is usually a little bit of light showing through in the middle between the AFD and boot sole.

Once that's set, go to wing width. The boot should currently be able to move slightly side to side. All you do is turn the side screw clockwise until the resistance goes way up- then back off like 1/16 of a turn.

If that's confusing, good. Go to a shop and let them set your bindings up.

Not with non-race bindings. Thats why I said go to the shops instead.

All good. Though I don't think too many people on here use race bindings haha.

.MASSHOLE.Not with non-race bindings. Thats why I said go to the shops instead.

No. This is exactly how both the STH and the STH2 work. I have had both these bindings and can tell you that they 100% have all the adjustability muggy talked about.

MuggydudeAll good. Though I don't think too many people on here use race bindings haha.

More people than you think ;) The only differences between current FKS 180s and Rossi's race binding from 10 years ago are color and brake width. And the STH from 12/13 used many parts from Salomon's actual race binding, most notably the heel unit & track. Most current high DIN freeski bindings originate from a race program or touring program- practically none for the purpose of park skiing.

MuggydudeAre you familiar at all with Solly bindings? The driver toes need the wings adjusted so that they are snug to the boot sides, and the toe height adjusted as well.

Basic overview of the STH2 adjustments- been doing it all season for my own and friends skis. Adjust bindings at your own risk- but it's not that hard to do. However, most guys should probably not adjust their own bindings.

First widen the wing adjustment with the single pozi/phillips screw (turn counter clockwise) on the side of the toe wing (STH2 has one screw which opens/closes both wings simultaneously, older STH bindings have a screw for each side). Now use a flat head screwdriver to lower the toe height by turning the top flat head screw counterclockwise. These steps prevent you from jamming the boot it and putting unnecessary stress on the moving parts because they are set too tight for your particular boot.

Now, time to set the forward pressure. With the front of the boot seated in the toe piece, the heel of the boot should just brush the back of the heel cup as a baseline length. You can move the heel forward and back on its track with the phillips/pozi screw at the bottom on the rear of the heel piece. Push the heel down to click it into the binding. The rear screw head needs to be flush with the plastic around it. if it's sticking out, the heel needs to be moved forward. If it's further in than flush the heel needs to be moved back.

DO NOT touch the forward pressure screw while the boot is clicked into the bindings!!! Every time you need to move the heel piece, pop the boot out, turn the screw, then click it back in and check.

After you have it flush- go back to the toe piece. First set the AFD height. Solly has instructions with their thin waxy paper, to fold it and then put the paper under the boot toe. Click the boot in- the paper should be able to slide out just barely- without ripping.

That is somewhat of a pain- I have been just using a index card- and then make it so its pretty hard to pull out but not that hard. It's a feel thing- I did the Solly method first then compared that to how hard it should be to pull and index card at the proper height, then just remember that feel.

If you look under the boot, their is usually a little bit of light showing through in the middle between the AFD and boot sole.

Once that's set, go to wing width. The boot should currently be able to move slightly side to side. All you do is turn the side screw clockwise until the resistance goes way up- then back off like 1/16 of a turn.

If that's confusing, good. Go to a shop and let them set your bindings up.

Thanks dude, exactly the answer i needed. One question, why shouldn't i change the back DIN while the boot is clicked in? Just curious :)

My bad, apparently i can't read :) i understand that the forward pressure screw shouldn't be touched when the boot is in place :)

The DIN screws are the giant flat head screws, and can be adjusted while the boot is clicked in. Forward pressure screw is a Phillips and about 1/10 the size

MuggydudeAll good. Though I don't think too many people on here use race bindings haha.

I do.

And if you bought the skis online, take them in and have them checked by a shop.

I haven't played with the STH2, but the instructions printed above are incorrect for the STH. Not sure if they're similar or not.

In what ways? I have only briefly looked at STH, the forward pressure is not set with a screw I believe (at least not on some of them)? So yeah they are not set up the same way as sth2.

The instructions above only apply to STH2. Work for me at least.. and basically follow the instructions that come with sth2 in the box.

MuggydudeAre you familiar at all with Solly bindings? The driver toes need the wings adjusted so that they are snug to the boot sides, and the toe height adjusted as well.

Basic overview of the STH2 adjustments- been doing it all season for my own and friends skis. Adjust bindings at your own risk- but it's not that hard to do. However, most guys should probably not adjust their own bindings.

First widen the wing adjustment with the single pozi/phillips screw (turn counter clockwise) on the side of the toe wing (STH2 has one screw which opens/closes both wings simultaneously, older STH bindings have a screw for each side). Now use a flat head screwdriver to lower the toe height by turning the top flat head screw counterclockwise. These steps prevent you from jamming the boot it and putting unnecessary stress on the moving parts because they are set too tight for your particular boot.

Now, time to set the forward pressure. With the front of the boot seated in the toe piece, the heel of the boot should just brush the back of the heel cup as a baseline length. You can move the heel forward and back on its track with the phillips/pozi screw at the bottom on the rear of the heel piece. Push the heel down to click it into the binding. The rear screw head needs to be flush with the plastic around it. if it's sticking out, the heel needs to be moved forward. If it's further in than flush the heel needs to be moved back.

DO NOT touch the forward pressure screw while the boot is clicked into the bindings!!! Every time you need to move the heel piece, pop the boot out, turn the screw, then click it back in and check.

After you have it flush- go back to the toe piece. First set the AFD height. Solly has instructions with their thin waxy paper, to fold it and then put the paper under the boot toe. Click the boot in- the paper should be able to slide out just barely- without ripping.

That is somewhat of a pain- I have been just using a index card- and then make it so its pretty hard to pull out but not that hard. It's a feel thing- I did the Solly method first then compared that to how hard it should be to pull and index card at the proper height, then just remember that feel.

If you look under the boot, their is usually a little bit of light showing through in the middle between the AFD and boot sole.

Once that's set, go to wing width. The boot should currently be able to move slightly side to side. All you do is turn the side screw clockwise until the resistance goes way up- then back off like 1/16 of a turn.

If that's confusing, good. Go to a shop and let them set your bindings up.

MuggydudeIn what ways? I have only briefly looked at STH, the forward pressure is not set with a screw I believe (at least not on some of them)? So yeah they are not set up the same way as sth2.

The instructions above only apply to STH2. Work for me at least.. and basically follow the instructions that come with sth2 in the box.

OK.

STH toe wings have a flathead screw. And it's counter-clockwise to loosen it. All the STH Driver toes(as well as 914/912/910/810) have a single toe wing adjustment. Only the STH16 STEEL has dual wings like the older 916/920/900/997/etc.

Salomon had two different styles of heel piece. A four hole and a five hole. The four hole has a tab adjustment for forward pressure. The five hole has the worm screw forward adjustment.

As for the toe height, you're supposed to raise the toe up and then lower it while pulling on the index card until you can feel resistance on it. If it's hard to pull out, it's too tight. But that may be the way you like them set up.

Alright yeah. I said counterclockwise btw. But the new wing screw is a philips/pozi.

And the new sth2 afd instructions has it so that there's resistance pulling out a super thin slippery sheet of paper- hence there is a decent amount more resistance with the thicker paper I use