I have some residue from duck tape (Don't ask how it got on there) on one of the bases of my skis and some old wax that I would like to remove. I have heated it up with the iron, scraped it, brushed it, beat it with a hammer and I still haven't managed to get it completely off. Does anyone know of a chemical or brush that I could use that won't harm the ski that will get this stuff off? And what do you usually use for wax?
I only use their all purpose wax, pretty good stuff.
They also sell base cleaner which will fix your problem.
Have you tried a hot scrape method for cleaning. It's te way to clean a base before waxing. You wax them with a basic wax but you scrape them before the wax cools. It draws a lot of the dirt out of the base. As for the duct tape you may find you need to use a kick wax style base cleaner but don't clean the whole base like that jut th affected section. But try a hot scrape first.
tomPietrowskiHave you tried a hot scrape method for cleaning. It's te way to clean a base before waxing. You wax them with a basic wax but you scrape them before the wax cools. It draws a lot of the dirt out of the base. As for the duct tape you may find you need to use a kick wax style base cleaner but don't clean the whole base like that jut th affected section. But try a hot scrape first.
would Acetone be too harsh? I've got plenty of that and brake cleaner but am weary about using it.
DBH5601would Acetone be too harsh? I've got plenty of that and brake cleaner but am weary about using it.
Try th hot wax first, that will more then likly work. If it does not take your skis to a ski shop and see if they have any base cleaner in the workshop. If they do I'm sure they would clean it for you for a buck or two rather then you having to buy a full pot of base cleaner you won't use again.
Duct tape is probably too sticky for a hot scrape. You can use any citrus based cleaner as a base cleaner, just apply/wipe off/let dry completely. I used pinesol.
Go to a shop and ask for a stone or belt grind. It will expose a whole new layer of your base and is good for your skis.
1. try a good hotscrape
2. if that doesnt work take them to a shop
3. dont use acetone or anything that harsh. it will really dry out your bases
paint thinner otherwise known as mineral spirits
DONT HOT SCRAPE. That's more likely to iron some of the residue into your skis than get it all off. It might look okay after because it will look smooth, but that doesn't mean it is actually good to go. Go buy some liquid base cleaner and put a little on a paper towel and rub it off. The stuff isn't bad for your bases at all, just give them a good wax afterwards because it drys them out a lot. Not only does this work better than a hot scrape, but it's faster.
a_shaky_gif1. try a good hotscrape2. if that doesnt work take them to a shop
3. dont use acetone or anything that harsh. it will really dry out your bases
I would honestly avoid putting any chemical base cleaner on your ski unless it was absoutely, 100% the last option available.
Most any ski base on NS is due for base grind as I highly doubt it is done often enough on here. Given that, take them in for a belt and base grind and this will expose a fresh layer of base material that is ready for a hot wax and base prep.
not quite sure where the hammer beating fits in here.
having worked in the back of a shop as a rental/repair tech, we used a citrus based wax remover to clean off the bases of our skis and snowboards. this has already been mentioned
pour some out on the base directly, then wipe it across the base with a towel or a rag until the entire base has an even coat- in the areas where the duct tape has stuck, you can probably spend a little bit of time rubbing with a bit extra of the base cleaner, it won't hurt.
warning- the citrus base cleaner will help extrude like.... almost all of the wax from your bases. you'll need to let the skis air dry and then give them a good waxing after this is done if you expect them to move on snow.
for wax, spend the 10 bucks to get an actual skitech waxing iron. normal clothing irons do not heat uniformly across the metal plate, and as such you'll have parts that burn the wax, and parts that don't melt it fully like right next to eachother. unless you live somewhere exceptionally cold or warm, you will be fine with an all weather wax.
drizzle some onto the entire base of the ski (less is more in this case, because you'll have yo scrape it off later), then use the iron to spread it evenly down the length of the base.
let dry, and leave it on the ski a few hours (or preferably days), then scrape and brush.
when brushing, go from course to fine in terms of grit. this should be common sense as to why.
lastskiernot quite sure where the hammer beating fits in here.having worked in the back of a shop as a rental/repair tech, we used a citrus based wax remover to clean off the bases of our skis and snowboards. this has already been mentioned
pour some out on the base directly, then wipe it across the base with a towel or a rag until the entire base has an even coat- in the areas where the duct tape has stuck, you can probably spend a little bit of time rubbing with a bit extra of the base cleaner, it won't hurt.
warning- the citrus base cleaner will help extrude like.... almost all of the wax from your bases. you'll need to let the skis air dry and then give them a good waxing after this is done if you expect them to move on snow.
for wax, spend the 10 bucks to get an actual skitech waxing iron. normal clothing irons do not heat uniformly across the metal plate, and as such you'll have parts that burn the wax, and parts that don't melt it fully like right next to eachother. unless you live somewhere exceptionally cold or warm, you will be fine with an all weather wax.
drizzle some onto the entire base of the ski (less is more in this case, because you'll have yo scrape it off later), then use the iron to spread it evenly down the length of the base.
let dry, and leave it on the ski a few hours (or preferably days), then scrape and brush.
when brushing, go from course to fine in terms of grit. this should be common sense as to why.
listen to this
and as for wax I prefer KUU wax if you can afford it get the mach I, II or III. I find it is the fastest out of the waxes i have tried
kylemcleanlisten to thisand as for wax I prefer KUU wax if you can afford it get the mach I, II or III. I find it is the fastest out of the waxes i have tried
Also I would just use an all temp wax unless you are in an area that is always warm or always cold