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Official mountain biking thread

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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,462
I know there are more brown pow lovers on this site, yah there is pinkbike but lets be honest, newshcoolers is wayyyy cooler. so lets posts our rides, questions about components, mechanic questions etc in this thread.

I just bought this beauty and i definitely sacrificed uphill capabiltiy in order to get a beefier dh/park bike. id been on a nomad for a while and it's a huge switch in riding styles for me. definitely getting used to the weight and having to keep speed a lot more.

specs for said beauty, 2011 rc2 dh totem, 2012 dhx rc4, highrollers front and back (gona go dhf front and highroller in the back), mtx 33 wheel set, slx brakes, diablous cranks, FSA 760mm Handlebar, Shimano SLX Shifter & Shimano Deore XT Derailleur.



Alright newschoolers, post your bikes. i wanna see some sexy steeds.
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Jun 9 2014 5:41PM
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B-runge
Posts: 16558 - Karma: 360
SklarPlans for an epic BC trip this week got sorta derailed by fire.
We did a little impromptu bike packing trip to Orcas Island for a few nights, which was pretty fun. Heading to Squamish tomorrow, gonna give it a shot and hope it's not too on fire.


Hows powerline riding this summer?
Jul 11 2015 4:26PM
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ImNotARacist
Posts: 5136 - Karma: -1,032
MOUNTAIN BIKING IS CRAZY
Jul 11 2015 6:41PM
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byubound
Posts: 1636 - Karma: 9,870
californiagrownY
So it struggles at tiger when you get down to the lower trails- fully rigid and joyride?

Exactly the trails I was thinking of when I wrote that. It can certainly ride them quickly, just requires more work than other bikes I've had in the past.

Also Tiger related, I got to ride most of the new dh line today during the work party. It reminds me alot of joyride in whistler, with some techy steep stuff and some fast berms and big jumps. Tough to spend the hour climb on a 7 minute trail though.
Jul 11 2015 7:46PM
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GANDALF
Posts: 6285 - Karma: 6,433
The referenced post has been removed.


Nope
Jul 12 2015 1:26AM
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californiagrown
Posts: 9794 - Karma: 2,014
byuboundExactly the trails I was thinking of when I wrote that. It can certainly ride them quickly, just requires more work than other bikes I've had in the past.

Also Tiger related, I got to ride most of the new dh line today during the work party. It reminds me alot of joyride in whistler, with some techy steep stuff and some fast berms and big jumps. Tough to spend the hour climb on a 7 minute trail though.


It's really that quick to the bottom? I know it's steeper than OTG, but sub 10 minute descent is damn quick.

GANDALFNope


Haha! Thanks for the input.
Jul 12 2015 2:02AM
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byubound
Posts: 1636 - Karma: 9,870
californiagrownIt's really that quick to the bottom? I know it's steeper than OTG, but sub 10 minute descent is damn quick.

Yeah, its straight up fall line for a ton of the trail, and with the usual loop you have to consider that OTG Fully Rigid Joyride take you way away from the parking lot, and then timber brings you back. This goes right down the middle.
Jul 12 2015 2:08AM
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JuliusJ
Posts: 3778 - Karma: 2,106
The referenced post has been removed.


I don't but rode there a few days ago. First off, so fucking jealous for the sick riding in that area. Secondly, only got one run, rode Lithium and it was literally too greasy to ride. Like midway down became not only unrideable, but like you couldn't get off your bike to ride. Gonna have to get back down there when its not shitty weather
Jul 12 2015 2:23AM
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cydwhit
Posts: 5065 - Karma: 42,823
The referenced post has been removed.


Living in bozeman, riding Teton pass right now. Holy cow there is some good riding out here. Lithium just gave me a good little workout.
Jul 12 2015 5:11PM
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Carl_the_Llama
Posts: 504 - Karma: 1,295
Hey NS, it's been a while since I've been on here, really enjoying biking at the moment... I just need some advice. I'm thinking I'm going to be selling my dirt jumper at some point to fund an enduro rig. I just need some opinions on what it's worth. Here's a parts list:

Tires: Kenda Small Block 8
Fork: Marzocchi DJ3
Frame: Deity Streetsweeper
Rims: not sure...
Hubs: stock wheelset from older build...
Bars: blkmrkt bada bing
Stem: blkmrkt underboss
Cranks: three piece bmx style... Profile maybe..?
BB: Spanish bb, newly replaced
Grips: odi longnecks
Chain: kmc k7100 - new.
Brakes: Avid elixir 3
Pedals: Nukeproof electron - might keep these...
Seat: Deity tekstyle
Seatpost: Deity syringe

I've probably got at least $800 in to it, its not super beat to shit or anything... I was thinking maybe $600? Do you think I could get more?
Let me know what ya think.
Thanks NS! Cheers!
Jul 13 2015 2:04AM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6638 - Karma: 10,532
Carl_the_LlamaHey NS, it's been a while since I've been on here, really enjoying biking at the moment... I just need some advice. I'm thinking I'm going to be selling my dirt jumper at some point to fund an enduro rig. I just need some opinions on what it's worth. Here's a parts list:

Tires: Kenda Small Block 8
Fork: Marzocchi DJ3
Frame: Deity Streetsweeper
Rims: not sure...
Hubs: stock wheelset from older build...
Bars: blkmrkt bada bing
Stem: blkmrkt underboss
Cranks: three piece bmx style... Profile maybe..?
BB: Spanish bb, newly replaced
Grips: odi longnecks
Chain: kmc k7100 - new.
Brakes: Avid elixir 3
Pedals: Nukeproof electron - might keep these...
Seat: Deity tekstyle
Seatpost: Deity syringe

I've probably got at least $800 in to it, its not super beat to shit or anything... I was thinking maybe $600? Do you think I could get more?
Let me know what ya think.
Thanks NS! Cheers!


What year is the frame, and most of the parts that are on it?

My first thought is $600 bucks for a used steel Diety dj bike is not bad. I am sure someone would pick it up for that.
Jul 13 2015 4:14AM
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Carl_the_Llama
Posts: 504 - Karma: 1,295
onenerdykidWhat year is the frame, and most of the parts that are on it?

My first thought is $600 bucks for a used steel Diety dj bike is not bad. I am sure someone would pick it up for that.


Wheelset, bars, stem, cranks, and fork are from a 2008 blk mrkt 357 build. The frame is a 2012 streetsweeper. The rest I've bought within the last 6 months.
Jul 13 2015 10:50AM
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stupendous-man
Posts: 8637 - Karma: 13,293
Carl_the_LlamaHey NS, it's been a while since I've been on here, really enjoying biking at the moment... I just need some advice. I'm thinking I'm going to be selling my dirt jumper at some point to fund an enduro rig. I just need some opinions on what it's worth. Here's a parts list:

Tires: Kenda Small Block 8
Fork: Marzocchi DJ3
Frame: Deity Streetsweeper
Rims: not sure...
Hubs: stock wheelset from older build...
Bars: blkmrkt bada bing
Stem: blkmrkt underboss
Cranks: three piece bmx style... Profile maybe..?
BB: Spanish bb, newly replaced
Grips: odi longnecks
Chain: kmc k7100 - new.
Brakes: Avid elixir 3
Pedals: Nukeproof electron - might keep these...
Seat: Deity tekstyle
Seatpost: Deity syringe

I've probably got at least $800 in to it, its not super beat to shit or anything... I was thinking maybe $600? Do you think I could get more?
Let me know what ya think.
Thanks NS! Cheers!


I would buy that for $600 if you were local... I'd bet you could get $700 pretty easily though. People love deity
Jul 13 2015 12:24PM
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rtl32
Posts: 679 - Karma: 1,160
My build is done and I've put over 225 miles on it so far!

2013 Giant Reign with full XT 2x10 groupo
Pike RCT3
Monarch Plus RC3
Rockshox Reverb
Hope Pro 2 Evo's/Mavic EN521's
HR2 exo in the back DHF exo in the front

It's so sick! I'll get some pictures up later, but one question

So I'm 15 and usually just wear a half face enduroish style helmet with regular athletic shorts, t shirt, mid calf socks and skate style shoes. It doesn't phase people around the local trails but at the bike park (that I've spent one day at so far) I've been catching looks like a gaper with mismatched skis, goggles upside down, and a helmet hanging off the back of his head. I'm not that good compared to some of the guys here on big bikes, but for a 15yo on a 6 inch bike I'm for sure not the worst. I just don't hit the bigger jumps or gaps.

So mtn bikers of NS, can I avoid not being a jerry/joey/gaper or whatever you call it at the bike park. I assume a full face and knee pads would be a good start, but what is the proper wear past that? If it matters I'm located in NJ so west coast styles don't really apply here.. I don't really have the money or incentive (I have 3, maybe 4 days left at the park before I leave for school again) to go full out moto but I need to fit in a littttle bit more to get comfortable. What do you guys suggest?

Also, every time I get to the bottom of a lift run I have to literally peel my fingers off the bars. The next morning I could barely move my wrists and fingers. Brakes and shifters are set up in a way that doesn't bend my wrist at the bar, so is this just fatigue from the mind boggling brake bumps and airtime that I'll acclimate to, or is it here to stay on park days? I've never felt anything like this from the techy AM stuff I do on my own.
Jul 13 2015 10:09PM
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californiagrown
Posts: 9794 - Karma: 2,014
rtl32My build is done and I've put over 225 miles on it so far!

2013 Giant Reign with full XT 2x10 groupo
Pike RCT3
Monarch Plus RC3
Rockshox Reverb
Hope Pro 2 Evo's/Mavic EN521's
HR2 exo in the back DHF exo in the front

It's so sick! I'll get some pictures up later, but one question

So I'm 15 and usually just wear a half face enduroish style helmet with regular athletic shorts, t shirt, mid calf socks and skate style shoes. It doesn't phase people around the local trails but at the bike park (that I've spent one day at so far) I've been catching looks like a gaper with mismatched skis, goggles upside down, and a helmet hanging off the back of his head. I'm not that good compared to some of the guys here on big bikes, but for a 15yo on a 6 inch bike I'm for sure not the worst. I just don't hit the bigger jumps or gaps.

So mtn bikers of NS, can I avoid not being a jerry/joey/gaper or whatever you call it at the bike park. I assume a full face and knee pads would be a good start, but what is the proper wear past that? If it matters I'm located in NJ so west coast styles don't really apply here.. I don't really have the money or incentive (I have 3, maybe 4 days left at the park before I leave for school again) to go full out moto but I need to fit in a littttle bit more to get comfortable. What do you guys suggest?

Also, every time I get to the bottom of a lift run I have to literally peel my fingers off the bars. The next morning I could barely move my wrists and fingers. Brakes and shifters are set up in a way that doesn't bend my wrist at the bar, so is this just fatigue from the mind boggling brake bumps and airtime that I'll acclimate to, or is it here to stay on park days? I've never felt anything like this from the techy AM stuff I do on my own.


get really MTB shorts, a normal everyday t-shirt, a full face, knee pads, and black socks.

done.


If its chilly, wear a flannel.
Jul 14 2015 12:07AM
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daannnnieel
Posts: 5163 - Karma: 4,293
Carl_the_LlamaWheelset, bars, stem, cranks, and fork are from a 2008 blk mrkt 357 build. The frame is a 2012 streetsweeper. The rest I've bought within the last 6 months.


start it at 800, the frame is post 2010 so there should be some interest there. It sounds like a nice bike.
Jul 14 2015 12:22AM
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daannnnieel
Posts: 5163 - Karma: 4,293
oh i forgot to post what I wanted to post lol


I'm riding a tr250 right now, and the fork is fucked. Like I got stanchion rub one day and didn't notice so now its pretty much cooked. I was considering doing a kashima upgrade, because it is a 36 and I never had a complaint before that.

But, if any of you have experience with tr's or just freeride bikes and single crown forks in general let me know!
Jul 14 2015 12:25AM
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Carl_the_Llama
Posts: 504 - Karma: 1,295
stupendous-manI would buy that for $600 if you were local... I'd bet you could get $700 pretty easily though. People love deity


dane_wizwillardstart it at 800, the frame is post 2010 so there should be some interest there. It sounds like a nice bike.


All right, thanks a lot guys. I'll keep that in mind.
Jul 14 2015 1:30AM
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ThaLorax
Posts: 21061 - Karma: 8,366
dane_wizwillardoh i forgot to post what I wanted to post lol


I'm riding a tr250 right now, and the fork is fucked. Like I got stanchion rub one day and didn't notice so now its pretty much cooked. I was considering doing a kashima upgrade, because it is a 36 and I never had a complaint before that.

But, if any of you have experience with tr's or just freeride bikes and single crown forks in general let me know!


I have the 6" Kashima 36 on my Turner 5 Spot and a 7" Rockshox Solo Air on Giant Faith. I like them both a lot. The 36 is going to be lighter, but the Solo might possibly maybe be the slightest bit more plush and have a smoother bottom end to its travel. I really like both though. I will say the thru-axle release system on both annoy the snit out of me. The fox always needs lube and its easy to forget to lock the sinches down, while the simpler rockshox one always has the lever flopping around when I ride rocky terrain (which is nearly always since its my DH bike).

Just my 2 cents.
Jul 14 2015 1:49AM
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ThaLorax
Posts: 21061 - Karma: 8,366
I think fox has solved this issue on newer models. I have a 2013 36 TALAS
Jul 14 2015 1:53AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
rtl32It's so sick! I'll get some pictures up later, but one question

So I'm 15 and usually just wear a half face enduroish style helmet with regular athletic shorts, t shirt, mid calf socks and skate style shoes. It doesn't phase people around the local trails but at the bike park (that I've spent one day at so far) I've been catching looks like a gaper with mismatched skis, goggles upside down, and a helmet hanging off the back of his head. I'm not that good compared to some of the guys here on big bikes, but for a 15yo on a 6 inch bike I'm for sure not the worst. I just don't hit the bigger jumps or gaps.


Nah man, stick with what you have! Honestly I kind of miss the feeling I had on my first summer of real riding on my old Ragley steel hardtail when I wore Dickies shorts, DVS skate shoes, a €5 Quechua poly t-shirt and 8 year old skate helmet and didn't give a shit (see photo). There's nothing more satisfying than overtaking overtaking an actual gaper who has gone out and bought a World Cup ready DH bike and full moto pyjamas but can't ride for shit! When I see someone riding hard on basic gear (particularly clothes) it always makes me smile. Focus on your riding and having fun. Knee pads would be a good call though, for your confidence.

For arm pump, stay looser. Work your elbows & knees more and you won't need to have such a death-grip on the bars. This will come naturally as your confidence grows. Also try to find someone friendly & experienced who can look at your setup (suspension as well as control position) to check that's not the problem.

Jul 14 2015 2:36AM
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~Gotama~
Posts: 821 - Karma: 3,160
These are my thoughts for a new drive train setup, since I turned my current derailleur into a L shaped hunk of garbage:

1x10 11-32 SRAM cassette
Shimano RD-M640 Zee Shadow+ 10 speed derailleur
Raceface 104 32T chain ring
no chain guide

Questions:
Does what kind of chain I get matter a great deal, or should I just go for bargin? I have no clue if tere is a big difference between chain options.

Will my SRAM X-5 shifter work with that derailleur and cassette? Both are 10 speed, but are from different companies.

Will I regret not buying a chain guide?
Jul 14 2015 6:57PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
~Gotama~These are my thoughts for a new drive train setup, since I turned my current derailleur into a L shaped hunk of garbage:

1x10 11-32 SRAM cassette
Shimano RD-M640 Zee Shadow+ 10 speed derailleur
Raceface 104 32T chain ring
no chain guide

Questions:
Does what kind of chain I get matter a great deal, or should I just go for bargin? I have no clue if tere is a big difference between chain options.

Will my SRAM X-5 shifter work with that derailleur and cassette? Both are 10 speed, but are from different companies.

Will I regret not buying a chain guide?


what type of bike will this be on? If its mainly DH it looks good but you wont be able to crosh compaines when it comes to derailer and shifter.

As for chain guide if its all mnt you may be ok but if its dh get a guide for sure. I ride mainly am stuff and still lose the chain a fair bit even with a nw chainring and clutch derailer.

chain wise the more you spend the lighter generally. You should be ok with a sram 1050 or whatever the exact number is.
Jul 14 2015 8:14PM
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~Gotama~
Posts: 821 - Karma: 3,160
tomPietrowskiwhat type of bike will this be on? If its mainly DH it looks good but you wont be able to crosh compaines when it comes to derailer and shifter.

As for chain guide if its all mnt you may be ok but if its dh get a guide for sure. I ride mainly am stuff and still lose the chain a fair bit even with a nw chainring and clutch derailer.

chain wise the more you spend the lighter generally. You should be ok with a sram 1050 or whatever the exact number is.


This will be on a Cannondale F5, a hard tail XC bike. My bike isn't super lightweight so I'll probably go for whatever is basic and functional. Thanks!
Jul 14 2015 9:15PM
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division.bell
Posts: 2762 - Karma: 1,905
Aww shit...29er on the way.

~Gotama~This will be on a Cannondale F5, a hard tail XC bike. My bike isn't super lightweight so I'll probably go for whatever is basic and functional. Thanks!


Just curious, why a Zee rear derailleur on your F5 hardtail?
Jul 14 2015 11:20PM
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NinetyFour
Posts: 8650 - Karma: 13,409
division.bellAww shit...29er on the way.


Awwwww shit! What is it?

I also realized tonight that I spend way too much time washing my bike. It takes me about an hour thirty to get it juuuuust right.
Jul 14 2015 11:37PM
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ghosthop
Posts: 631 - Karma: 1,027
rtl322013 Giant Reign with full XT 2x10 groupo

a half face enduroish style helmet I've been catching looks like a gaper

I've never felt anything like this from the techy AM stuff I do on my own.


very cool build, my 15 year old brother would be jealous. You're probably getting looks because of the lack of full face. I assume you're riding mountain creek, in which case there are definitely some spots to get rekt.

And xt brakes when you say full xt group? Maybe try bigger rotors for more power and less work with the hands. +1 on getting your suspension checked out.

division.bellJust curious, why a Zee rear derailleur on your F5 hardtail?


uninformed speculation on the internet ftw, but you can find parts from dh groups cheaper that perform just as well as equivalent trail groups with only a minor weight penalty.
Jul 14 2015 11:59PM
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Tinga
Posts: 11349 - Karma: 2,333
Might be in the market for some new tires here soon. Anyone have any advice?

650b Trail bike used for trail riding. Most of the trails are clay so I really only get to ride when it's dry. There are also a lot of granite slabs so I'm not keen on the semi slick in the back.

I'd like something around 2.3". tubeless ready. More interested in durability since the granite can do a number one tires.

What do we think?
Jul 15 2015 12:00AM
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californiagrown
Posts: 9794 - Karma: 2,014
NinetyFourAwwwww shit! What is it?

I also realized tonight that I spend way too much time washing my bike. It takes me about an hour thirty to get it juuuuust right.


Since probly early march, i have yet to wash my bike. probly 100 hours of riding since then. I just dont see the point honestly- the drive train is good to go, the suspension still supply supportive.

Unless its dripping mud, im just not washing it.


the only way i can wash it is with a pressure washer as well, so not washing it is the lesser of the two evils haha.
Jul 15 2015 12:02AM
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Tinga
Posts: 11349 - Karma: 2,333
californiagrownSince probly early march, i have yet to wash my bike. probly 100 hours of riding since then. I just dont see the point honestly- the drive train is good to go, the suspension still supply supportive.

Unless its dripping mud, im just not washing it.


the only way i can wash it is with a pressure washer as well, so not washing it is the lesser of the two evils haha.



grit getting in articulations causes wear. seals and bearings especially.
Jul 15 2015 12:07AM
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californiagrown
Posts: 9794 - Karma: 2,014
Tingagrit getting in articulations causes wear. seals and bearings especially.


and pressure washing is better? haha

I live in an appartment complex and have no access to a hose or an outside area to wash it.

only when its truly caked do i take it to the car wash and give it a quick light spray down.
Jul 15 2015 12:09AM
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Tinga
Posts: 11349 - Karma: 2,333
californiagrownand pressure washing is better? haha

I live in an appartment complex and have no access to a hose or an outside area to wash it.

only when its truly caked do i take it to the car wash and give it a quick light spray down.


how do you make a pressure washer work without a hose hook up?
Jul 15 2015 12:26AM
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californiagrown
Posts: 9794 - Karma: 2,014
Tingahow do you make a pressure washer work without a hose hook up?


car wash...
Jul 15 2015 12:36AM
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division.bell
Posts: 2762 - Karma: 1,905
NinetyFourAwwwww shit! What is it?

I also realized tonight that I spend way too much time washing my bike. It takes me about an hour thirty to get it juuuuust right.


All that I'll say for now is that it's a 2016 Stumpy FSR 29er...and I can't fucking wait.

If it's not super muddy and requiring immediate cleaning I will wait overnight until it dries and I can brush it off easily and focus on the areas that need detail. Quick clean and lube is under 10 minutes.
Jul 15 2015 1:23AM
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~Gotama~
Posts: 821 - Karma: 3,160
division.bellJust curious, why a Zee rear derailleur on your F5 hardtail?


ghosthopuninformed speculation on the internet ftw


Exactly! I Picked that one out because the jockey wheels don't hang as low and are closer to the frame, so they are more protected. Its also relatively cheap and serves the purpose of converting to 1x10, and has good reviews on amazon and pinkbike.

It really is an uninformed decision though, so if there is something I should know that would steer me in a better direction, please share.
Jul 15 2015 6:51AM
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LC.
Posts: 5952 - Karma: 2,423
Gotama: I use a Zee mech. It works well with an 11-36 cassette on my current and old frames. The Zee shifter is horrible, I replaced it pretty quickly with a Saint, much nicer, stick to Saint or XT there. Try without a guide first and see how you go. I use an AMG because my old chainring was a standard profile, still want the bashguard for where I ride so I kept the top guide on too.

Tinga: I thought I replied to this earlier but maybe my connection cut out. Maxxis EXOs are pretty much your answer for tough-ish, light-ish all-mountain tyres. I don't like HR2s but a lot of people swear by them, I like Minions better (two DHFs or a DHF & DHR2). I tried some Schwalbe options at the start of this summer (Hans Dampf & Nobby Nic); faster and lighter but not as tough, faster wearing and less grippy. I'm on Specialized Butchers now as I got hold of them easier & cheaper than Minions, which I'm really liking. Tread is like a slightly less aggressive DHF. Control casing front is way lighter all over than a Maxxis EXO and a bit lighter than Schwalbe Snakeskin, Grid casing rear is slightly heavier all over than a Maxxis EXO. Both working flawlessly for me in rough terrain.
Jul 15 2015 9:08AM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6638 - Karma: 10,532
Here are some pics of my DH and enduro bikes:

Scott Gambler (with team issue front end)


Evil Uprising


I have a steel Commencal dj bike too, but I hardly ever ride it as I prefer to take the bmx bike then.
Jul 15 2015 11:56AM
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bakedpow
Posts: 8770 - Karma: 10,462
i need to get another bike. been missing it soooo much. I'm in france currently and see all these prime enduro trails around it it has me lusting like a 16 year old
Jul 15 2015 2:05PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
onenerdykidHere are some pics of my DH and enduro bikes:

Scott Gambler (with team issue front end)


Evil Uprising


I have a steel Commencal dj bike too, but I hardly ever ride it as I prefer to take the bmx bike then.


Very nice. Is the gambler new? did you have a evil dh bike last season?

Hey ey question for you and your bike fitting experience. I had shoulder surgery 5 years ago and I'm finding that my left hand wants to sit way further out on the bar then the right. I have a 760mm bar currently but I'm holding on with only 2 fingers on the left. My idea is to cut the bar so it's the equivalent of 770 on the left but 760 on the right (I like the width of the right side so don't want to go wider). Does thi sound like a good idea? Have you ever heard of this? Any reasons I should not try it? Cheers for any help.
Jul 15 2015 2:09PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
~Gotama~This will be on a Cannondale F5, a hard tail XC bike. My bike isn't super lightweight so I'll probably go for whatever is basic and functional. Thanks!


Ok what are your climbs like? Can you handle a 32t both ends as your smallest gear? If not then you can easily find a 36-11 cassete to give you more range then you could even get a extender ring to expand it to 42. You may wonder the use of this if climbing is not to hard but you coul use a bigger front ring to give yourself better driving gears. The slight disadvantage of 1x is losing the top end gears so a bigger ring with a larger climbing gear can be a good idea.
Jul 15 2015 2:12PM
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Goku
Posts: 8119 - Karma: 4,221
Jul 15 2015 4:37PM
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UphillIce
Posts: 123 - Karma: 138
tomPietrowskiVery nice. Is the gambler new? did you have a evil dh bike last season?

Hey ey question for you and your bike fitting experience. I had shoulder surgery 5 years ago and I'm finding that my left hand wants to sit way further out on the bar then the right. I have a 760mm bar currently but I'm holding on with only 2 fingers on the left. My idea is to cut the bar so it's the equivalent of 770 on the left but 760 on the right (I like the width of the right side so don't want to go wider). Does thi sound like a good idea? Have you ever heard of this? Any reasons I should not try it? Cheers for any help.


If you have a 760 bar now, I don't think you could cut it so that it's 770 (equiv) on one side and 760 on the other. You'd need to reattach 10mm somehow.

If you're getting new bars, why not just leave it at the equivalent of 770 on both sides? It will be easier to explain if you ever end up selling the bike and I can't imagine 10mm extra on one side will be the big of a deal. At least start with that, but a piece of tape or a zip tie or something at the place where you'd cut it and if you never touch it, well then cut away if you're keeping it long term.
Jul 15 2015 6:40PM
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UphillIce
Posts: 123 - Karma: 138
Has anyone been to Thunder Mountain Bike Park at Berkshire East yet? How is it? How would it be to ride on a trail bike?
Jul 15 2015 6:45PM
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skodeo7
Posts: 14949 - Karma: 9,234
division.bell2016 Stumpy 650B has 150mm of front and rear travel and is a perfect bike for our area. I took the 29er version which has 140mm front and 135mm of rear travel to Tiger on Tuesday morning and didn't need any more bike or even use all of my travel on a ride from the top down OTG/FR/JR/NWT to the lot. I've ridden the expert carbon 650b, expert carbon 29er and elite aluminum 29er around here now and am a huge fan of both wheelsize versions and the overall platform in general, and will be ordering a high end 29er for myself when it becomes available, hopefully later this month. I know a lot of people that had their minds changed once they spent some time on this new Stumpy.

I'd also look at the Bronson and Nomad, both 650b with 150mm and 165mm travel respectively. I've ridden the new Nomad but not the Bronson yet. It didn't climb as well as the Stumpjumpers did, but I didn't expect it to either. Would be a killer bike for Tiger and other more lengthy and technical descending, but would not be my bike of choice for some of the more traditional and tight singletrack in our area.

I also know quite a few people running Enduros, both 650b and 29er's in our area. From mellow xc singletrack to Stevens riding, that bike can take it. Overkill obviously on mellower terrain much like the Nomad above, it also offers 165mm in the 650b form, but has 155mm for the 29er; but is worth it on the descents either way you run it.

I've also spent some time on the Tallboy LT 29er with 135mm of travel and was very impressed. I know a few people in Bend that are on this bike and ride it for XC and endurbro races with shit eating grins every time they ride it. Bummer that Santa Cruz is out of stock until early 2016 when they hopefully upgrade the frame with a new rear triangle and moved pivot bearings. There are some in stock at local dealers but ordering a new one is out of the question until 2016 from my understanding.

Lots of bikes out there worth checking into, but the bikes listed above are some of what I've ridden recently on trails in our area.


Just picked up a 2016 Stumpy 650b Elite myself. So damn stoked. It should get here Friday. Demoed both wheel sizes but liked the 650b more.
Jul 15 2015 8:19PM
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division.bell
Posts: 2762 - Karma: 1,905
skodeo7Just picked up a 2016 Stumpy 650b Elite myself. So damn stoked. It should get here Friday. Demoed both wheel sizes but liked the 650b more.


Very nice! Which size/color did you get?

I know someone impatiently waiting on a Large 650b elite in the hyper green color.

I love those new Stumpy's though, mine should be here Friday or Saturday and it still doesn't seem real.
Jul 15 2015 8:45PM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6638 - Karma: 10,532
tomPietrowskiVery nice. Is the gambler new? did you have a evil dh bike last season?

Hey ey question for you and your bike fitting experience. I had shoulder surgery 5 years ago and I'm finding that my left hand wants to sit way further out on the bar then the right. I have a 760mm bar currently but I'm holding on with only 2 fingers on the left. My idea is to cut the bar so it's the equivalent of 770 on the left but 760 on the right (I like the width of the right side so don't want to go wider). Does thi sound like a good idea? Have you ever heard of this? Any reasons I should not try it? Cheers for any help.


Yeah man, thanks! I'm really stoked on it. I had an Evil Undead but am selling the frame because I wanted something with a similar geometry and that could make the switch to 650b down the road.

What kind of bar do you have, and does it have a generous clamping area? If it does you could just slide the bar over a 1cm to get that offset you are looking for, rather than cut it down.

The only thing that might be weird (which I have no idea about, just a thought) is that you might find your turns in corners to be different for left and right turns. But, if your biomechanics dictate this set up then it might very well help you out to do it.
Jul 16 2015 2:20AM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
onenerdykidYeah man, thanks! I'm really stoked on it. I had an Evil Undead but am selling the frame because I wanted something with a similar geometry and that could make the switch to 650b down the road.

What kind of bar do you have, and does it have a generous clamping area? If it does you could just slide the bar over a 1cm to get that offset you are looking for, rather than cut it down.

The only thing that might be weird (which I have no idea about, just a thought) is that you might find your turns in corners to be different for left and right turns. But, if your biomechanics dictate this set up then it might very well help you out to do it.


well I did some playing yesterday. I got a cheap 800mm bar and tried various positions for the grips. I found in the end going wider did help with the injured arm in terms of hand grip but it did fatigue my shoulder a lot more then normal. I also tried various right hand positions and I do think even will be best. I'm going to go ride today more an test more. I think 780-775 will be best but I tree any way to measure whatwould be ideal?
Jul 16 2015 1:03PM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6638 - Karma: 10,532
tomPietrowskiwell I did some playing yesterday. I got a cheap 800mm bar and tried various positions for the grips. I found in the end going wider did help with the injured arm in terms of hand grip but it did fatigue my shoulder a lot more then normal. I also tried various right hand positions and I do think even will be best. I'm going to go ride today more an test more. I think 780-775 will be best but I tree any way to measure whatwould be ideal?


The theory behind wide bars is similar to doing a push up- when you are in a corner or blasting through rough stuff, you are going to have more support and bike control with a wider grip location (much like doing a push up is easier with your hands further apart than closer together).

The ideal width is relative to how wide your shoulders are, and if you take a look at some of the detailed bike checks from world cup DHers you see that some of the smaller, narrower shouldered dudes run a ~760mm bar and some of the taller, broader dudes run ~800mm bars.

In general, I would argue that for enduro/freeride/downhill you should have something wider than shoulder width, as this will put your upper body in a stronger position to attack corners and rough sections of trail. If you have an 800mm bar, you can easily experiment with what strikes a balance between a wide/strong position & comfortable given your old man shoulder ;)
Jul 16 2015 1:23PM
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tomPietrowski
Posts: 7099 - Karma: 17,043
onenerdykidThe theory behind wide bars is similar to doing a push up- when you are in a corner or blasting through rough stuff, you are going to have more support and bike control with a wider grip location (much like doing a push up is easier with your hands further apart than closer together).

The ideal width is relative to how wide your shoulders are, and if you take a look at some of the detailed bike checks from world cup DHers you see that some of the smaller, narrower shouldered dudes run a ~760mm bar and some of the taller, broader dudes run ~800mm bars.

In general, I would argue that for enduro/freeride/downhill you should have something wider than shoulder width, as this will put your upper body in a stronger position to attack corners and rough sections of trail. If you have an 800mm bar, you can easily experiment with what strikes a balance between a wide/strong position & comfortable given your old man shoulder ;)


Haha yeah I had read that shoulder width is a good starting point, but all the guides I found online used like 650mm bars so I was not sure how it translated.

I like the feel of the 800mm width but it's massive for the trails I'm riding. I actually dont actually want to go too wide if I can help it as some of the trails here get tight fast so if I can find a happy balance that would be good.

I did did like how it opened the cheat up more though just need to fin a happy medium of good hand grip but no shoulder pain.

Ill go go throw my old body down some mountains today and see what works.
Jul 16 2015 1:31PM
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onenerdykid
Posts: 6638 - Karma: 10,532
^ you should also check out bars of the same width, but with different rises, upsweeps, and backsweeps.

Just like boot geometry, handlebar geometry can be a real killer or savior.

For me & my style of riding, 5 degrees of upsweep and 7 degrees of backsweep is perfect. But some prefer less upsweep (usually around 4) and more backsweep (usually around 9).

These 2 different combos feel super different and will also place your hands & shoulders in different areas. One might work better than the other for you.
Jul 16 2015 1:33PM
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