Actually I'll post it here:
Read this before you do it, don't do it hile doing it. How to develop
black and white film, both 35mm and 120mm. When developing black and
white film, it needs to be normal black and white film. This means that
you probably can't buy it at your local drug store. If you are not sure
whether your black and white film is normal, check the box or canister
(or roll if it's 120). If it says Process C-41 or something similar,
then it's not normal. Normal black and white film examples are films
like Kodak Tri-x, any Ilford film besides XP2 Super, and Fuji Neopan
Acros. BW400CN won't work either.This tutorial takes you through what
you need and how you do it and is illustrated with photos.
What you need:
-Normal black and white film
-1 developing tank
-1 reel (sized depending on the film you want to develop.
-Developer
-water
-fixer
-Either a changing bag or a dark closet
-photoflo (optional)
-something to mix the chemicals in
-somewhere to store the chemicals
-something to store the chemicals in
-A graduated cylinder or measuring cup
STEP 1: MIXING THE DEVELOPER AND FIXER
There are basically endless possibilities for developer combination's.
There are so many i would be redundent to name them all. But basically,
just follow the steps on your developers packaging, this is assuming
it's POWDER BASED. If you buy LIQUID DEVELOPER then you can skip this
step. I mixed my powder based developer in a large bleach bottle that i
washed out. Fixer works the same way.
STEP 2: PREPARING FOR DEVELOPING
THIS MUST BE DONE IN TOTAL DARKNESS. First you need to take your
developing tank, reel and other pieces to the tank into a changing bag
or a dark closet. Then what you need to do is remove the film form the
canister, this can be achieved by peeling apart the opening that the
film used to be coming out of on the canister. then pull the film out of
the canister, it's going to be really curly so have patience. Here
comes the hard part, getting the film on the reel. If you have never
done this before, i suggest buying a roll of film (any roll of film will
work for this, black and white or color) and pulling it out of the
canister and trying to get it on the reel with your eyes open and in the
light. Then try it with your eyes closed. Then you can move on to the
real thing. Once you have the film detached from the canister, which is
achieved by removing the tape or just ripping the end of the film from
the canister (removing the tape on the end is better), you need to get
the film on the reel. On the reel, there are little feet that stick out
on the inside. Put the end of the film through these feet and pull it
along the reel a little bit. Then you can spin the reel back and forth
which should pull the film along the reel via a ball bearing system. If
the film is not moving, then it's not on right, try again. once the film
is completely on the reel, place the tube that came with the tank in
the tank. Then put the reel on the tube in the tank. Close the lid on
the tank tightly and make sure it's closed and will not come off. Once
you're sure it won't come off, exit your dark environment. ]
STEP 3: DEVELOPING THE FILM:
Once you have exited your dark environment, get your developing supplies
ready, this includes the tank, a timer, developer, water, and fixer.
Put the tank down and pour the developer into the hole in the top of the
tank. I suggest getting bottles that store close to the exact amount of
developer that fits in the tank at one time. I use Gatorade bottles and
i have a 20oz tank. Once you have poured the developer into the tank
start the timer. Something you need to do during developing is
AGITATING. This ensures that the entire film surface is hit by
developer. Agitating is just shaking the tank to move the developer
around. I usually agitate for 30 sec st the start of developing and for 5
sec every 30 sec after that. This does not have to be very strict, you
could agitate basically any time you want whether it be never (I don't
recommend it) or constantly (gonna tire your arm out). Developer times
vary from developer to developer and film to film. Also, if you diluted
the developer it will vary the time. Go to digitaltruth.com for
developing times for basically all film and developer combos. Once the
developing time is up, pour the developer back into the container. DON'T
OPEN IT YET. Now pour in room temp water and agitate for 30 sec then
dump that down the drain. Last step; fixer. This is the same thing as
developer, fix for like 10 min or so (times may vary). Pour the fixer
bcak in its conatiner. USING DEVELOPER MAKES IT NOT WORK AS WELL THE
NEXT TIME YOU USE IT, SO ADD LIKE 10 OR 15 SEC TO THE NEXT TIME YOU USE
TO DEVELOPER.
STEP 4: AFTER DEVELOPING
Open the tank, take the film out and off the reel, if you have photoflo,
submerge it in that for 30 sec to 1 min. Then hang them to dry. Your
film should be correctly developed provided you did everything right,
mind this takes practice and developing methods and times and whatnot
vary from person to person, this is a general guide on how it typically
goes for most everyone.
STEP 5: DIGITIZING YOUR FILM
Well this requires a scanner, one with film dedication capabilities, i
have a canoscan 8800F. Cheaper options are epson 4490. Scan your film
onto your computer and edit in Photoshop or another film editing program
I realize that i may have missed something in the guide or not have
covered some sort of special situation seeing as how i typed this at
11:30 at night. Post it in here and i'll see what i can do.
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