Ok this afternoon, I was real bored and pissed off coz school starts again on Monday and I have soooo much homework, so i wandered down to the beach to look at the surf, and thought yeah I'll go out, so i walked home got my wettie on and grabbed my bored, ran back down the beach and paddled out, The surf wasn't great or anything just real fun like 3 foot right hander coming in and it was me and a couple of other dudes out, and one chick, and the sun was just going down the water is real clear and warm and i was getting a few waves, and it made me realise how fucken wicked surfing is, you forget about all lifes shit when your on a wave, and its just a fucken cool feeling, and im stoked ive been able to surf my whole live with all my friends and so on, and that i live in a rad place, where the sun rolls down under the ocean and the mist blows up the valley, it was just cool. But then i had to walk home in the dark. and realised all my friends were leaving for uni again. damn it and schools starting and im on nS talking bullshit once again. But meh Surfing fucken rules.
Hohef, Jebub and the 12 commandments.