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What about for those of us that ski the mountain too on the same sticks?
Rails will dull edges underfoot overtime. Either that or crack 'em first as I found out last season.
I want to tune my-edges. Keep them dull underfoot, but then towards the tip and tail what do most people tune to? I hear a lot of people use a 1 degree bevel.
Someone with more knowledge feel free to chime in. Tuning edges is still something that is largely unknown for myself as well.
P.S. - I ski West so you crud and ice isn't too much of a concern for me.
For the park quiver, using a chrome file, I detune (practically round) my edges from an inch in front of my bindings to an inch behind on both sides. I've had people come into my shop and ask only for the outsides to be detuned so they can still use their inside edge, but this makes little sense to me.
I detune my skis after putting a 1 1/2 degree base bevel on them. I use a 1 1/2 degree instead of a 1 degree or 1/2 degree because it raises the effective edge off the base more to prevent catching an edge on boxes, rails, and even pavement.
I use a 1 1/2 degree side bevel to make them sharper in the rest of the edge that is still effective. This helps still carve when you're riding fast, but with the base bevel raised it isn't catchy. Typically, when people mention a 90 degree bevel, thats 1 degree base, 1 degree side. Pretty standard many factory brands. Not to aggressive, not to wimpy (actually, its pretty weak for ripping around on hard snow).
After they are tuned and detuned, I use a gummy stone to remove any burrs or edge flake, and then I go pretend to shred like I'm 10 years younger and not an old gaper.
Yeah, actually that's exactly right. But what I dont understand about why they want this, is because they are always park specific and urban skis.And I would think that they would rather not have to worry about them being catchy on rails, boxes, and especially wood, ABS, or PVC. I dont know, I'm a noob. I just figured those who come from such structured ski programs usually don't jib their practice GS skis.
You also might want to find out if you have a, extruded or a sintered base material. Honestly, there's no reason to waste time waxing an extruded base. These bases are usually more durable, and harder plastic, but because they aren't porous they won't hold the properities in the wax that create the glide. Do have a shop stone a good pattern that matches your areas most frequent snow type into the base.
Sintered bases, which are softer and more porous, will hold those properities better. But they aren't as durable and require more care. If your shop isn't legit then make sure they don't sand them to make them flat unless you want them slower.
As a ski tech I use a file. The tech's that I know use a file. A gummy stone will detune an edge if its rubbed against the edge several times. But after the edges are done they almost always get a once over with a soft stone. I use a gummy stone to detune the tips and tails, but underfoot I like my edges obtuse. I use a 12 teeth/ cm straight milled file, the same I would use for doing edges by hand.
To each is own, I'm not saying my way is better, its just the way I have been taught by people who I trust know way more then I do.
I should throw out there that I only use a 12 teeth/ cm straight milled file to do the first pass or two on rough edges, or when I'm cutting a new angle.
I know how by not saying one thing it might automatically mean I'm implying everything else.