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im in the market for a new pair of boots to strap these babies on to. my old ones lasted about 3 seasons and more than 80 days in total skiing. i got some ideas in mind for boots, but id like a fresh opinion. i ski half park (nothing tooo big, half everything else), i dont tour nor plan to.
MiIfHunteron pre-order, got them 184cms with LOOK PIVOT 15 GW 115MM - RAW
You will remove some clippings which would feed the turf and aid in moisture retention, but will do nothing for a thatch issue.
Where thatch is an issue, core aerification along with organic fertilizer is what is needed. If pH is too low, some lime or dolomite will help a lot too. The best organics will also have beneficial microbes in there too. It is through microbial activity that thatch is broken down. Good luck.
DominatorJacquesYou will remove some clippings which would feed the turf and aid in moisture retention, but will do nothing for a thatch issue.
Where thatch is an issue, core aerification along with organic fertilizer is what is needed. If pH is too low, some lime or dolomite will help a lot too. The best organics will also have beneficial microbes in there too. It is through microbial activity that thatch is broken down. Good luck.
That is interesting, I have not heard an argument against dethatching before. I plan to core aerate next week, after scalping and dethatching, and then overseed and fertilize at the same time. My turf is a Blend of rye and tall fescue in the PNW, if that makes a difference.
CaseyThat is interesting, I have not heard an argument against dethatching before. I plan to core aerate next week, after scalping and dethatching, and then overseed and fertilize at the same time. My turf is a Blend of rye and tall fescue in the PNW, if that makes a difference.
Just the term "De-Thatch" is wrong. It is power raking. It will do nothing to reduce thatch. The term leads people to think clippings are thatch. They are not. Core aerificate, then apply a quality organic fertilizer. If the fertilizer has no microbes, then apply some Rid-X. Even if soil pH is 6.5 to 7.0 some Dolomite or lime will help as the microbes will do better. Thatch being all organic matter will be acidic.
Rye & turf type tall fescue are both bunch type grasses. The damage is slow to repair. Power raking can cause a bunch of damage. If you really want to seed, put some bluegrass in there.
Good luck!
Oh BTW, to cut the grass short (scalp) is the worst thing you can do as the grass prepares itself for winter dormancy.
Best to leave the grass at a three inch mow height all the way into winter.
**This post was edited on Sep 27th 2020 at 8:13:13pm
DominatorJacquesJust the term "De-Thatch" is wrong. It is power raking. It will do nothing to reduce thatch. The term leads people to think clippings are thatch. They are not. Core aerificate, then apply a quality organic fertilizer. If the fertilizer has no microbes, then apply some Rid-X. Even if soil pH is 6.5 to 7.0 some Dolomite or lime will help as the microbes will do better. Thatch being all organic matter will be acidic.
Rye & turf type tall fescue are both bunch type grasses. The damage is slow to repair. Power raking can cause a bunch of damage. If you really want to seed, put some bluegrass in there.
Good luck!
Oh BTW, to cut the grass short (scalp) is the worst thing you can do as the grass prepares itself for winter dormancy.
Best to leave the grass at a three inch mow height all the way into winter.
**This post was edited on Sep 27th 2020 at 8:13:13pm
Yeah I only bag clippings like on occasion for show. I’ve seen a lot of videos of people using these cheapo dethatchers and getting massive amounts of debris out of their lawn in prep for aerating and overseeding. That is what I plan to do, if it fucks up my lawn you’ll be the first to know
CaseyYeah I only bag clippings like on occasion for show. I’ve seen a lot of videos of people using these cheapo dethatchers and getting massive amounts of debris out of their lawn in prep for aerating and overseeding. That is what I plan to do, if it fucks up my lawn you’ll be the first to know
i think you should be fine as long as you follow what dominator said. our landscape and climate is different from the PNW but for what its worth, we dont really use our dethatcher attachments on our machines until like the spring to pick up all the dead stuff from the winter and critter damage on golf courses, so they do have a use to some degree, not that there etirely useless.
MiIfHunternope. there is more than enough meat to go around at your local butcher or grocer
I live in Alaska. It's far more humane to shoot a moose, caribou, or sheep that has lived its entire life in its natural habitat, and then harvest the entire animal than to buy meat that came from animals who lived in confined spaces, pumped full of who knows what, and killed far less humanely. Plus, that stuff is ridiculously expensive up here.
Buying meat in Alaska is dumb. Living off of animals that we harvest ourselves is practical, awesome, far healthier and more economical, and fun.
Well that is your opinion and the only one that cares about it is you.
Sdot.I live in Alaska. It's far more humane to shoot a moose, caribou, or sheep that has lived its entire life in its natural habitat, and then harvest the entire animal than to buy meat that came from animals who lived in confined spaces, pumped full of who knows what, and killed far less humanely. Plus, that stuff is ridiculously expensive up here.
Buying meat in Alaska is dumb. Living off of animals that we harvest ourselves is practical, awesome, far healthier and more economical, and fun.
Yeah! So excited - I can't wait to hunt with it next year. We had a three-seater Defender a few years ago, but we sold it when I had our second kid. We needed something bigger to fit our family of four plus (hopefully) a big animal.
I used to use a ton of general snus, so my buddy brought me back a can of snus from sweden. I was SO fucked up I had to throw the can out. I don't remember what it was but I could not handle it haha
