Quoting pigglywiggly from Jul 25 2009 5:57:24:
just got some ar6's and i ski 60% hardpacked and 40% park...should i detune my edges? ive never done it before

Quoting summersover from Jul 26 2009 2:36:15:
I just watched all the videos out of boredom and I'm definitely gonna try freehand mounting on an old pair of raceskis until I've got it down and can do it on my new skis and save teh moniesMy local shop is just a big sports store anyways they get enough business from me the way it is....

Quoting no_steeze from Jul 26 2009 8:33:36:
i'm still too scared to freehand a pair of new skis

Quoting summersover from Jul 26 2009 11:03:51:
haha well with some practice im sure i will gain enough confidence.... i think

Quoting no_steeze from Jul 27 2009 4:39:34:
that's what i keep telling myself but it's so easy to mess up haha

Quoting mattslines from Jul 29 2009 8:58:18:
try giving your skis/board a hot scrape first, hot wax them first with a cheaper wax and scrape off  like you normally would buff a little and then wax again with your good wax, this opens up the pores of the bases more, and clean the bases better than just waxing right to the ski, it will also make your wax last alittle longer,
^^^also i love useing rotery brushes, and you can get good pressure with them, just use 2 different one more corse to pretty smoth and it will buff them better than doing it by hand

Quoting benrle from Aug 21 2009 12:30:59:
sorry a lot of questions coming up, mainly directed to mrstskier (but others feel free to answer):when waxing a new set of skis do you brush inbetween the multiple coats of waxes? or just scrape? are bronze brushes a close substitute for blue nylon or are they worlds apart? finding it hard to get hold of blue nylon in england, but easy to find bronze. and finally, waxes specifically for atificial snow or snowflex, are they worth it? if not which out of the normal yellow, blue, red, pink which would be the best? i only go to my localish (1.5 hours away) indoor snow slope once every two weeks in the summer but have heard man made snow can be harsh on bases. cheers all

Quoting willis.$ from Aug 23 2009 11:15:20:
Not sure if I should post this in here or make a thread

Can I buy/do shops normally have screws for bindings? I bought a pair of comp1400s off of here but they were missing two screws. Am I screwed(no pun intended)?

Also, what is the best way to get rust of off screws? My mom said oil will work but I don't know

Quoting willis.$ from Aug 23 2009 11:15:20:
Not sure if I should post this in here or make a thread

Can I buy/do shops normally have screws for bindings? I bought a pair of comp1400s off of here but they were missing two screws. Am I screwed(no pun intended)?

Also, what is the best way to get rust of off screws? My mom said oil will work but I don't know

Quoting willis.$ from Sep 5 2009 11:15:16:
Sorry I keep responding to this thread but I'd rather not just keep making threads for silly things

I just bought these p12s and the toe piece is cracked like a mofo. Is this just cosmetic or are these shot? Will a shop mount them?

Quoting willis.$ from Sep 5 2009 11:16:29:
I can't see the picture but it is there I promise

Quoting JeacStrap from Sep 20 2009 12:47:33:
why should i not sharpen my park skis? should i sharpen my rail/urban skis? how about if im in powder?

Quoting JeacStrap from Sep 20 2009 1:13:22:
so for my park skis, when i get them i should just mount them and wax em or should i also sharpen em? how often (if at all) should i sharpen my park skis?

Quoting mrstskier from Sep 20 2009 5:25:00:
did you read what i said? dont sharpen them at all ever unless its a pipe ski

Quoting Ben. from Sep 20 2009 10:05:40:
when you are trying to saturate new bases, about how many waxes should it take?

Quoting mrstskier from Sep 21 2009 1:38:31:
like how many times should you wax?

Quoting Ben. from Sep 21 2009 1:40:19:
yeah. cuz i know youre supposed to do it repeatedly on new skis.

Quoting mrstskier from Sep 21 2009 1:41:40:
depends on the bases and how fast you want them to be

if you can, hot box them then do 6-10 more layers

Quoting Ben. from Sep 21 2009 1:53:45:
hot boxing prolly isnt gonna happen. i cant afford to have the shop do it, and i sure as hell dont have access to one.

Quoting AlexK.$ from Sep 22 2009 3:47:10:
my threads for later when i have to bend my fks

thanks for the video no_steeze!!!

Quoting mrstskier from Sep 21 2009 12:02:15:
ya it isnt cheep, im glad my race coach has one he lets me use, but i may build one this winter

at least 10 coats of different waxes tho, i know that seems like alot, but it builds up such a strong base

Quoting skichicky3 from Oct 15 2009 10:22:09:
okay a few questions...I have new skis this season, they are in the shop right now getting mounted but I dont want to pay for the shop to prep them for the season since I have all the resources I need at home. What specifically should i do wax/tuning wise to get a new pair of skis set for the beginning of the season (i live on the east coast so i will be skiing mostly man made snow for a while). Also, at the end of the season last year I was skiing my old teneightys, they are pretty beat but i still plan on using them a bit this year. I never did anything to them last spring except put them in my basement and I know i should have put a summer wax on them, too late now?. What should i do to prep those for the season as well. +k to any helpful answersthanks

Quoting chazz. from Oct 15 2009 12:07:15:
start waxing the heck out of both pairs right now, and dont stop till you see snow. then wax some more.

Quoting mrstskier from Oct 15 2009 2:39:37:
pretty much, once my great scotts arive ill do another video on prepping new skis but till that happens, wax wax wax!

Quoting no_steeze from Oct 19 2009 7:37:46:
it's nice that scott is hotboxing them before shipping though

Quoting Moon_Park from Oct 25 2009 10:16:11:
I've just been on the swix website and I'm having trouble with working out the waxes. can someone tell me the basic differences between Hydrocarbon waxes, Low Fluorocarbon waxes and High Fluorocarbon waxes. I just bought some swix Ch (hydrocarbon) on a cheap deal and now I'm really confused as which is best as I'm no ski tech - thanks

Quoting omIV$ from Oct 25 2009 11:16:37:
the swix system is designed with racing in mind.  so it can get very technical, and it involves some very expensive waxes (some ceraF powders can run over $100 a bottle).

that said, you don't need most of that stuff...ch wax is basically all you'll ever need.  essentially swix colors its waxes by snow (or outdoor) temperature.  So you'll use a yellow wax when its really warm, a green when its really cold, and the rest shake out in-between.  they're all marked by temp at which you should you them, so thats pretty self explanitory.

the different classes of waxes (CH, LF, HF, HFBD) are for different humidity and snow conditions.  Basically, as it gets more humid, and the snow is older, you want to move from CH to LF to HF to HFBD waxes accordingly.  This is a little less scientific, and has more to do with a touch that you develop over time for what wax to use.

That said, you dont need to worry about HF and HFBD.  I will generally only use an HF or HFBD when I'm waxing for a race, and I need every hundredth of a second.   What I'd adviuse is you use CH for most days, following the temperature guidelines on the wax boxes.  You may want to invest in some LF waxes (LF12 is an assortment pack that will give you a little bit of three different ones) for days when the snow is really old or dirty.  Other than that, just use CH.

Hope that helps.  There are some wax freaks out there who spend three hours every night cleaning their bases, applying different wax cycles, brushing, applying ceraF powders (which are 100% fluorocarbon)...it can get really involved.  As long as you're cleaning, waxing, scraping, and brushing every few days, your bases will stay in great shape.