Official Ski/Binding Main - Gear Talk - Forums

Quoting Balto from Feb 19 2010 4:57:36:
letting the ptex set for a few, then ill finish the video and post it. should be up in an hour and a half

Quoting Ben. from Feb 19 2010 6:56:58:
thanks mate!

The referenced post has been removed.

Quoting Balto from Feb 19 2010 8:10:39:
fuuuu

Quoting Ben. from Feb 19 2010 8:24:46:
sweeeeet.


any advantage to black vs clear ptex?

Quoting Crack. from Feb 20 2010 1:52:20:
While riding yesterday, my binding started to squeek, a lot. Everytime I would go over the tiniest bump it would squeek. Does it just need a little grease?

Quoting Balto from Feb 20 2010 8:06:51:
griffons/jesters?

Quoting yellav from Feb 17 2010 5:12:29:
any other advice on getting the brake spring back into an fks binding? its been giving me a bit of trouble for the past few days...

Quoting Crack. from Feb 20 2010 8:19:37:
haha nope even worse and they are markers

Quoting Ben. from Feb 19 2010 8:24:46:
sweeeeet.


any advantage to black vs clear ptex?

Quoting Mr.Huck from Feb 22 2010 4:42:42:
I may try to do an addendum to that vid.  The video was well done.  Props to mrstskier. 

You should use the same color petex that you have on your bases already.  I actually like using clear petex.  When petex burns, it gets little carbon flakes and impurities in it.  Technically, those little flake make your bases slower, and may not adhere to the base as well.  It's tricky to get petex to drip onto your base without getting carbon in it.  The trick as in the video is to keep the petex close to a surface.  When you have a yellow flame, you are getting carbon.  While the candle is burning you can use your metal scraper to cut the black flakes off then hold the candle close to your base and don't let the flame get yellow. That should keep your petex clear going on the ski.  Blue flame good!  Yellow flame bad!

Also, when you scrape with a metal scraper, I would just add that you want to lightly pull the scraper towards you.  Try to take it off a little at a time in layers instead of hammering on it and trying to go all the way to the base in one shot.  That will usually rip part of your petex job out.  Don't forget to srape the petex off of the side of your edges too.  As the you begin to get most of the petex off and your base is starting to look flat again, put your thumbs on the scraper directly over the spot that you filled and scrape back and forth with a lot of pressure.  Ideally you barely want to be able to see the circular drip marks when your done.  You definitely want to get a metal scraper for petexing. 

Quoting Balto from Feb 22 2010 9:07:02:
good tips, glad to have someone other then alex(no_steeze) and I contributing to this thread

Quoting Mr.Huck from Feb 24 2010 9:41:16:
Thanks.  Glad you made your video.  My metal scraper went missing too.  Beware the work bench gnomes!.  They steal metal scrapers and use them for vanity mirrors in their wee little bathrooms. 

Quoting Lambo*18 from Mar 4 2010 10:37:01:
^^^^^anyone? Need some help would enjoy waxing em tonight!!!

Quoting B-runge$ from Mar 21 2010 10:58:55:
i took apart my 120 heel pieces, and even tho i dont need to yet, i cant seem to properly put them back together acuz i had to replace the plastic long thingy on one of them which required me to take it apart all the guts fell out of the other one /:

haha ill just worry about it when i have the breaks tho, i need ma lizzys for spring break next week!

Quoting B-runge$ from Mar 25 2010 9:17:39:
got em back together
that situation just had to do with me being dumb
they are on ma lizzys right now in the shop, lookin all pretty
ready for spring break shenanigans

Quoting -.-never from Mar 29 2010 2:22:45:
Just wondering and new to this new school ski community
How often does waxing need to be done?(with what wax if skiing 60% slope, 30% rail 10% POW)
After skiing care for boots and skis
some basic info of your care would be helpful

Quoting omIV$ from Mar 29 2010 4:13:35:
maybe read the thread?

Quoting -.-never from Mar 31 2010 5:20:44:
Maybe I have but it's not really covered?

Quoting PhuzzyWuzzy from Mar 31 2010 9:11:32:
Sparknotes of this thread:

Wax your skis as often as possible.  If you can, wax them every time you go skiing.  Certain waxes work best in certain temperatures, but for most people a universal wax will work just fine in all conditions.  Dominator Zoom or Swix Universal Cold/Warm work well and are pretty cheep. 

Buckle your boots and wipe down your skis with a rag when your done skiing.  Store all your gear in a warm, dry location. 

Quoting minibus4$ from Apr 11 2010 4:39:19:
This is kinda a weird practice that I do sometimes. I get a heat warming blanket that gets pretty hot and warm up my skis for like a couple hours or so to make it kinda like a hot box. Is this bad and does anyone else do this?

Quoting K.Saga from May 3 2010 1:01:49:
wondering about ski vise...to ones who have it
is there any recommendations for it? or is it just cheap ones on eBay....

Quoting K.Saga from May 3 2010 1:01:49:
wondering about ski vise...to ones who have it
is there any recommendations for it? or is it just cheap ones on eBay....

Quoting PhuzzyWuzzy from May 3 2010 2:32:57:
I use this one and I've had no problems: http://www.ski-racing.com/bst_jaws.html (linking not working for me w/e)

Quoting omIV$ from May 3 2010 3:31:22:
there's really no substitute for the classic 3-point vice.  they're not cheap though, you won't likely find one new for less than this: http://reliableracing.com/detail.cfm?edp=11086295

you can try some of the less expensive ones out there, but if you're going to be using it regularly, the savings don't make it worth it.

Quoting Boax$ from May 4 2010 1:33:24:
Really easy

Quoting Mr_pretzel from May 21 2010 10:40:57:
Could someone explain the waxing when you get new skis?

You guys said i should wax my new skis 6-10 times before skiing them, do you mean wax them, let them sit for 1 hour scrap wax again repeat? or just wax scrap wax scrap
And should i wax with different kinds of waxes each time?

Quoting omIV$ from May 21 2010 11:01:02:
Swix mkes a Base Prep wax. Buy a 60g pack: http://www.reliableracing.com/detail.cfm?edp=10620870 (this is pretty much the best price out there).

The first wax application, your base is going to suck up the wax pretty much instantly.  This will be visible; the darker-colored pools of wax will dry up quickly.  Keep dripping on and ironing in wax until this stops.  then wait for the wax to solidify (~20-30 min), and then scrape it and brush it out vigorously for about 5 minutes.  Then wax again, same process as above, except the wax won't get sucked in as much.  Then scrape & brush.  Repeat until the base no longer sucks in the wax; your last application will just leave a layer of wax above the scraped/brushed base surfaced.  Scrape/brush once more (devote a solid 10 minutes to this brushing, and then use a fiberline sheet or paper towel to wipe off any dirt), and let your skis set overnight.  The next day, apply base prep once more, and then hot-scrape it (scrape while the wax is still liquid), and let it dry.  Scrape, brush, and wait a half hour. Your bases are now ready to accept regular wax, so check your ski forecast and get-er-done!

Quoting Balto from Feb 20 2010 8:45:26:
m11?

and for all fks questions, pm no_steeze

Quoting Bonzalo from May 23 2010 8:40:57:
i had a marker m11, and they had that problem of a weird noise, why?

Quoting Balto from May 23 2010 9:12:48:
plastic plastic plastic

Quoting Plind from May 31 2010 5:49:46:
Ye, never heard good things about marker bindings

Quoting omnomnom$ from Jun 12 2010 12:09:47:
question about mounting: is it okay to drill more than three times? my hellbents had been drilled twice by the previous owner. i drilled them again for a pair of look pivots. the pivots broke this season, so i need a new pair of bindings. my question is, should i get a pair of expensive ass look bindings with wide brakes so that way it'll fit into the drill holes or can i get a different brand and just ptex the old holes and redrill? +K for answers. kthxbai.