Official Ski/Binding Main - Gear Talk - Forums

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 7 2009
7:38:07PM

well today i made some progress, first off i'm just gonna say it is not as easy as it looks in aoe's video haha, it takes a lot of trial and error and jesters are especially easy bindings to do this with

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aoe$
Karma: 89748
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May 7 2009
9:54:38PM

Lol, I never said it was easy! Glad you're making progress tho.

Yeah the larger drill bit is pretty esential for drilling the jig otherwise it will crack. Just be sure you remember to go back to a 3.5mm ish  bit for the skis.

As for the heal piece, thats's one of the most crucial steps. You really need to clamp it to the jig to at least dot a market. Remember though, measure the distance between the rear holes and go half that amount from the center line. then just line it up through the heel piece holes. Anyway, you've seen the vid, i'm sure you'll find a way haha.

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 9 2009
4:52:47PM

plexi....glass....fucking....sucks

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 9 2009
6:40:29PM

just finished the plexiglass jig, flawless, this was my 3rd piece of plexi, so that means i broke 2 pieces trying to make the jig

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 10 2009
1:21:28PM

here're some pics of progress so far, sorry for shitty pics, my basement has terrible lighting

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 10 2009
3:58:21PM

can i have the tahoes?

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 10 2009
4:37:38PM

i'll trade my tahoes for your entire massively overlapping quiver

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 10 2009
4:49:50PM

deal

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 11 2009
7:04:45PM

i mounted the toepiece on my delamed bacon and everything was even and measured right, i get my 4.1mm bit tomorrow so i should be making the final holes tomorrow afternoon

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 12 2009
5:11:38PM

well...the deed is done

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Balto
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24944 Posts
@th1337

May 12 2009
7:11:14PM

so money

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aoe$
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May 12 2009
7:47:32PM

Good job, glad it worked out. The method is sound it just takes some skill and a lot of patience. Nice pics too

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 12 2009
9:23:18PM

word skill and patience are a big part of it, not claiming but this definitely takes a good amount of shop skill and you need the exact tools, digital calipers especially

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DrZoidberg
Karma: 39180
3477 Posts
Addict

May 25 2009
11:05:28AM

Do you guys store your skis with the binding open or closed, or does it not matter. I've heard that it does, and it's sad that I have to think about storing my skis anyway.

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YooperSteeze
Karma: 13587
1220 Posts
Insane

May 25 2009
1:35:38PM

Good question. I too am interested in the answer.

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Balto
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24944 Posts
@th1337

May 25 2009
10:24:12PM

when you say open/closed, do you mean like clicked in?

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DrZoidberg
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May 26 2009
3:38:53PM

open=not clicked in
closed=clicked in

at least thats how i've always referred to it.

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 26 2009
5:57:25PM

no but like with your boot in it or just with the heels pulled up?

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YooperSteeze
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Insane

May 26 2009
8:08:29PM

Heels pulled up, I believe.

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DrZoidberg
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May 26 2009
8:10:35PM

Whichever really, i'm trying to figure out whether it's better to store your skis with the bindings closed, whether it be from just pulling the heel up (no boot) or putting your boot in and leaving i there or just leaving them open all summer. Runonsentencesrule.

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no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

May 26 2009
9:15:04PM

wouldn't be smart to leave the boot in because it puts tension on the binding the whole summer and eventually weakens the spring i think, as for popping it closed i could see it putting less tension on them but i haven't heard of people doing this so i'm not sure

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 26 2009
11:38:06PM

i dont see that being a good thing. with the boot in, as alex said, it would put preasure on the spring. but with it just clicked up, wouldnt it put breasure on the heel piece spring? i wouldnt do it. ive never heard of anyone doing it, and i just asked my race coach and he said he wouldnt

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Ben.
Karma: 167153
21469 Posts
@th1337

May 27 2009
2:41:42AM

closed. with the din cranked down

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ski-swagga
Karma: 53072
5257 Posts
No Life

May 31 2009
2:38:11AM

back when i used to race i was told the longer the wax stayed on the bases the better so the wax would have longer to set. does this hurt the base in anyway or what? and why is scrapeing right after you wax beneficial? (totally butchered beneficial i think)

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 31 2009
7:49:08PM

the only time you should scrape right after waxing is if you are cleaning your bases. other then that, always let your skis sit for at least an hour in doors. and ya the longer the wax xits the better it is absorbed

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 31 2009
9:23:53PM

with the amount of threads i see on what waxing tools should i buy, i figured i would just post a list of imo the best. from irons to brushes to wax

Iron: for an iron, as i said in my video in the OP, dont buy the $5 iron from goodwill. you want a good iron that will have a good heating range(100º-150ºC). as you saw in my video i use a swix, swix is well know as "the best" when it comes to tuning, but for park/pow skis, i find that a toko iron is better. they are wider then swix so they take less passes on fat skis. i recommend the T8 800W CH seen here

http://www.toko.ch/en/productDetail/5547180_v/T8+800W+CH.html

Brushes: there are 2 types of brushes, hand and roto. hand brushes are the most common. you are going to want a blue nylon to use first, then a white nylon. i swear by swix for brushes. you will see rectangular and oval brushes, this is just preference, i find the rectangular give a better grip. these are the 2 brushes you will want

http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39847::0:6118:4:::0:0

http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainPage_6117&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,2742&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0

you may also want a bronze brush for cleaning, as they pull out the most wax from your bases. Roto brushes are a brush that is fitted on a mount that is put onto a drill, these are a great tool when you need to wax quickly, but most real waxers tend to stay away from them as you cant get as good of pressure with them. here is the swix list of roto tools

http://www.swixsport.com/eway/default.aspx?pid=278&trg=MainContent_6179&MainContent_6179=6117:0:24,3118&MainPage_6117=6138:39853::0:6144:15:::0:0

Wax: for wax, there is only 1 brand i trust. SWIX! for most of you, you will only need to stick with the ch waxes. but if you are racing or want extra speed in comps, think about using an LF wax. and if any of you feel the need to spend $100+ on a bar of HF, for the love of god, if you like your skis, DO NOT DRIP IT ON TO YOUR BASES, touch the par the your iron away from you skis and rub the hot end on your bases. the high floral count will destroy your bases. and after using HF you NEED to clean your bases. but for most of you who will be in comps, just toss a can of F4 into your pocket and rub it on before your run and use a waxing cork to rub that in. please see my video for the explanation of the different colors of wax

if you have any questions ever fell free to pm me, im here to help.

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YooperSteeze
Karma: 13587
1220 Posts
Insane

May 31 2009
9:52:05PM

Is Dakine any good for irons? I'm looking at getting this > http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-Super-Tune-Kit-FREE/dp/B00182EZKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1242578289&sr=1-1 < kit, seems to me like its a good value, but I figured I should ask around before buying.

• 0

Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

May 31 2009
9:54:11PM

if i remember right, dakine rebrands the cheep swix iron

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chazz.
Karma: 158644
2731 Posts
Addict

May 31 2009
10:01:10PM

that was my first iron i used for 2 seasons when i first started tuning years ago, yes, its a good iron for a good price!

• 0

YooperSteeze
Karma: 13587
1220 Posts
Insane

May 31 2009
10:10:52PM

So that means its a good iron correct?

• 0

Balto
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24944 Posts
@th1337

May 31 2009
10:14:08PM

there are better for not much more

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Ben.
Karma: 167153
21469 Posts
@th1337

Jun 1 2009
12:57:13AM

i use it and it works fine for me

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J-Wallz$$
Karma: 19090
1274 Posts
Insane

Jun 10 2009
10:55:29AM

i have a question about bending brakes on my STH16.
the brakes on my STH16 are 110mm and i need them to fit my 115mm waist on my bacons
do you bend the brakes the same way as in the OP video?
do i need to bend them all the way straight then back down? or can i get away with just angeling them a little?

• 0

no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

Jun 10 2009
12:53:32PM

salomon brakes actually tend to run a little wider so they should fit no problem, if not, put them in a vice and just tweak them out ever so slightly, you don't need to bend up and then down again, you just need to tweak them out

• 0

J-Wallz$$
Karma: 19090
1274 Posts
Insane

Jun 10 2009
1:32:24PM

thanks just what i needed to know and unfortunantly they dont fit around my bacons so looks like just a little tweak should do it

• 0

Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

Jun 10 2009
3:22:24PM

you may also need tome heat to tweak them, solly breaks are pretty sturdy. just old a lighter at the bend for a min or so

• 0

no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

Jun 10 2009
5:03:07PM

they're tough but super thick so the metal won't break easily, i've found i've never had to use heat for all different types of brake bending

• 0

J-Wallz$$
Karma: 19090
1274 Posts
Insane

Jun 10 2009
9:10:46PM

well might try a little heat to make it easier and it wont hurt at all unless i touch it haha but ill try it without first
thanks guys would give karma but already 10/10 so......

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willis.$
Karma: 41976
2926 Posts
Addict

Jun 18 2009
4:31:44PM

How do you fill up old binding holes? Epoxy?

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Balto
Karma: 435825
24944 Posts
@th1337

Jun 18 2009
6:04:51PM

epoxy and plugs

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willis.$
Karma: 41976
2926 Posts
Addict

Jun 18 2009
11:22:48PM

Do you get plugs at a hardware store or like a ski shop? Sorry but I have a slight case of the downs about ski maintenance

• 0

Balto
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24944 Posts
@th1337

Jun 19 2009
12:06:19AM

ur shop should have some

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willis.$
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2926 Posts
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Jun 19 2009
12:10:49AM

Haha cool thanks

• 0

no_steeze
Karma: 306007
23234 Posts
@th1337

Jun 21 2009
11:43:26PM

if not then buy them online, i know tognar sells them

• 1

musick13
Karma: 10052
924 Posts
Insane

Jul 4 2009
8:37:58PM

wow...

And to think i used to just use an iron and some old crayons to wax my skis

• 0

deathcookie
Karma: 66009
1531 Posts
Insane

Jul 17 2009
5:00:10PM

I just bought some armadas with the race bases.  How am I supposed to maintain them.  Somebody told me to put a base layer of wax on now to soak into the sintered bases, and put other waxes on later.  What type of wax should I use?

• 0

chazz.
Karma: 158644
2731 Posts
Addict

Jul 17 2009
9:32:24PM

Use a basic all temp wax and use it often. Dakine makes really good all temp wax, and dominator makes a big box of stuff called Zoom which is perfect everyday wax and you can get it with or without graphite depending on where you ski. Dont bother with expensive waxes or brands like swix, holmenkol, or toko unless you really want to be temperature specific and spend more money.

For those bases, and waxing often, id suggest

(all temp box)
http://dakine.com/ski/accessories/wax/nitrous-cake-wax-large/

and/or

(basic zoom or graphite zoom)
http://www.dominatorwax.com/newzoom.html

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YooperSteeze
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Insane

Jul 17 2009
10:15:47PM

What does graphite do?

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chazz.
Karma: 158644
2731 Posts
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Jul 17 2009
10:29:37PM

Its mainly used for black bases,which are said to be faster than normal bases because they have a higher graphite content in them. Graphite helps more in wet snow cases to repel suction, and aids in repelling static cling in dry snow conditions. Graphite Zoom in the link i posted is essentially a high quality, basic hydrocarbon all temp wax, but with graphite additive to help restore and condition a black base. You can use it on any bases and it will do the same thing, but its original purpose was to keep black bases conditioned with graphite which a normal wax cant.

• 0

YooperSteeze
Karma: 13587
1220 Posts
Insane

Jul 18 2009
12:39:06AM

Alright man, thanks for the info, I already had you at 10/10.