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Quoting Bear_Grylls$ from Feb 29 2012 10:51:03:
crap quality. the one time I had no tripod   :(

Quoting Pandysloo from Mar 2 2012 1:25:21:
I don't consider myself a photographer; I dabble on occasion when I'm camping.

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 12:24:31:

Quoting 1337 from Mar 3 2012 12:48:15:
you ever shoot with stobes? I feel like it would add a little something to these 3, (esp. the ones with the sun directly behind them) and make the skier stand out more. That or I just LOVEEEEE strobed shots :P

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 1:24:03:
Usually only at night. Plus the max sync speed of the D700 is 1/250th of a second so I wouldn't really be able to use strobes here. I could use a big reflector (which I have) but that'd be kind of a dick move to the athletes.

Quoting .Ian.$ from Mar 3 2012 7:37:00:
Would 1/250th be too slow to freeze the action too?

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 10:27:34:
Bingo. There is a way to trick the system and work at higher shutter speeds if you use Nikon brand flashes, but they're not very powerful and very expensive.

Quoting papa_lanks$ from Mar 3 2012 4:39:25:
Edited these in Lightroom today, going for a film-vintage look since I'm out of film and can't get more til monday, thoughts? had to include this one from this summer

Quoting .Ian.$ from Mar 3 2012 10:46:06:
Yeah I've heard about that way that you can get higher shutter speeds with Nikon flashes. Also I've never shot skiing during the day with a strobe either, but that makes sense that 1/250th would be too slow. Like you were saying, I usually just use them at night and obviously the flash itself freezes the action since there's not too much other ambient light. During the day though that obviously wouldn't work, definitely makes sense. Great shots though really! I think they're well composed too, unlike what it looks like the other photog in one of those pictures is doing. Haha

Quoting Sklar$ from Mar 3 2012 6:11:06:
when strobing, you are using the flash duration NOT the shutter speed to freeze the action this means you have to shoot below ambient(close down the lens) so that the strobes are the main light source, that way the flash duration(which is faster than the sync speed) will act to stop the action. so when shooting into the sun, you can still shoot with a pretty high(small) aperture and get the sun star and freeze the action OR you could get pocket wizard flex tt5's and hypersync up to 1/8000 shutter speeds or at least thats what i've been told on the Fred Miranda forums and elsewhere

Quoting .Ian.$ from Mar 3 2012 7:10:19:
Sorry, I've honestly never shot any motion during the day with a strobe to begin with, so I probably shouldn't have commented in the first place. I've just never really used strobes before other than at night or in dim lighting conditions when I've really needed it as a main light source. I ORIGINALLY thought that even though the flash duration would be short enough to freeze the action, the constant light would create motion blur, but I now see why that's not true and why I was wrong. I've wanted to start practicing more with strobes to freeze action and stuff in different lighting conditons, but I really don't have anyone to shoot. For the past couple years I had been following some pro photographers who have talked kinda poorly about strobes/flash in general, so I just always kept myself away from it. I wish I learned more about it when I started photography a few years ago. When done right though I feel like it makes a shot look 1000 times better so I'm definitely going to try to practice with it a ton now.

Quoting Sklar$ from Mar 3 2012 6:11:06:
when strobing, you are using the flash duration NOT the shutter speed to freeze the action this means you have to shoot below ambient(close down the lens) so that the strobes are the main light source, that way the flash duration(which is faster than the sync speed) will act to stop the action. so when shooting into the sun, you can still shoot with a pretty high(small) aperture and get the sun star and freeze the action OR you could get pocket wizard flex tt5's and hypersync up to 1/8000 shutter speeds or at least thats what i've been told on the Fred Miranda forums and elsewhere

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 7:28:30:
"when strobing, you are using the flash duration NOT the shutter speed to freeze the action" That doesn't work in broad daylight.

Quoting .Ian.$ from Mar 3 2012 7:38:27:
Okay, that's what I thought originally. So was I actually right? haha

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 7:40:27:
I mean theoretically, if you stopped down (or had an ND filter) so far that your exposure would have to be several seconds and then used a flash to freeze the motion, it would work, but you would need a flash so powerful that I don't even know if you can buy one. I certainly don't have one.

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 7:40:27:
I mean theoretically, if you stopped down (or had an ND filter) so far that your exposure would have to be several seconds and then used a flash to freeze the motion, it would work, but you would need a flash so powerful that I don't even know if you can buy one. I certainly don't have one.

Quoting Sklar$ from Mar 3 2012 7:51:37:
How do you freeze action with flashed then? My understanding was that you stop down to cut out ambient so you don't get blur from that, and then use the flash duration, which will be way faster than the sync speed, to stop the action. So in essence, you're opening the shutter, but the light is coming from the flash, so your effective shutter speed is that of your flash duration.

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 3 2012 8:21:45:
That does all work in theory, but in order to make it work in broad daylight, your flash would have to be able to overpower the sun by a lot. There wouldn't be much point in it anyway, since when you shoot in the pipe, the big white walls reflect so much light that you have plenty fill already.

Quoting Sklar$ from Mar 3 2012 8:25:56:
i thought you were generalizing that to all situations, not just daylight makes more sense now

Quoting akarlsen from Mar 4 2012 6:38:23:
first time shooting the northern light, hoping to get to see more of it next time tho.

Quoting Kangbang from Mar 5 2012 1:30:48:
Taken with a Nikon d300 with a Sigma 70-200 2.8. I took the photo. I'm not sure why my friend decided to make it black and white. It was super crisp and nice in the raw image.

Quoting Kangbang from Mar 5 2012 1:30:48:
Taken with a Nikon d300 with a Sigma 70-200 2.8. I took the photo. I'm not sure why my friend decided to make it black and white. It was super crisp and nice in the raw image.

Quoting Bmo. from Mar 5 2012 9:36:31:
the only thing i would suggest is to zoom out a little bit. you want to see the whole hat.

Quoting Bmo. from Mar 5 2012 9:36:31:
the only thing i would suggest is to zoom out a little bit. you want to see the whole hat.

Quoting 1337 from Mar 5 2012 6:11:47:
My brother "took" this today with a AlienBees B400 in DAYLIGHT to show you can use strobes to capture action during bright days (I set up everything and told him to press the shutter button. He got better photos than I did -__-)

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 5 2012 6:43:54:
That looks like dark-ish shade. What was the exposure?

Quoting 1337 from Mar 5 2012 7:17:07:
iso 160 1/200 f/11 5d II with 24-105

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 5 2012 8:22:18:
Yeah, that's significantly darker than the f/8 and 1/3000th @iso200 that I was at.

Quoting 1337 from Mar 5 2012 8:32:49:
true, but not saying you can't strobe in full daylight. Look at twood's stuff: http://www.flickr.com/photos/11084378@N05/6950222525/in/set-72157629140494132

Quoting Bill.Nye$ from Mar 5 2012 8:53:06:
I'll bet you $5 that was taken at less than 1/250th of a second, which means he either has. Camera with a better sync speed (his profile says he has a d50) or he used a flash that can use nikons high speed sync feature.

Quoting Sklar$ from Mar 5 2012 9:10:07:
From the other thread "crank the 1600 to full power, it has a short enough t.5 to freeze action, and overpowers sunlight. because of that, if I expose for the ambient light, the parts of the frame that are lit with strobes are actually a little over-exposed. If I shoot into the sun and it's lighting shadows the effect of shooting strobes in the day is more apparent, as the background can be a little darker. depending on where in the frame I'm positioning the action, I can sync up to 1/650 using Paul C Buff triggers on the d300. one of the advantages of nikon is they do better with sync speeds. Although, because the shutter travels in the opposite direction of a Canon, if I am only trying to illuminate the top half of a landscape oriented frame, I have to turn my camera upside down... haha. "

Quoting SourSteezle$ from Mar 6 2012 10:20:39:
the moon tonight

Quoting PurpleDino from Mar 7 2012 7:20:53:
It looks really yellow, it may have been like that but I'm not sure.  Here a picture of the moon from me last night: