Mounting bindings with paper jig

measure 6 times, and drill once. Make sure you midsole mark is VERY easy to see and perfectly marked horizontally across the waist of the ski. You will want two more alignment marks for the toes and the heels. Your lucky since youre using an actual drill bit meant for mounting skis. I just use the proper size and mark the depth with a cork or painters tape.

japanadameasure 6 times, and drill once. Make sure you midsole mark is VERY easy to see and perfectly marked horizontally across the waist of the ski. You will want two more alignment marks for the toes and the heels. Your lucky since youre using an actual drill bit meant for mounting skis. I just use the proper size and mark the depth with a cork or painters tape.

Thanks bud +k

I would discourage using epoxy...pretty much permanently binds the binding screws to the ski so if you want to re-use the bindings later you can't. I wrote quite a bit about mounting with paper templates in this thread: https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/818053/Mounting-Your-Own-Bindings

good luck!

WattMoodI would discourage using epoxy...pretty much permanently binds the binding screws to the ski so if you want to re-use the bindings later you can't. I wrote quite a bit about mounting with paper templates in this thread: https://www.newschoolers.com/forum/thread/818053/Mounting-Your-Own-Bindings

good luck!

Thank you so much for the help, if not epoxy than what should I use?

wood glue. This step is really only for keeping the water out of the holes. Skipping this step can lead to water getting into the core and cause delam issues.

japanadawood glue. This step is really only for keeping the water out of the holes. Skipping this step can lead to water getting into the core and cause delam issues.

yep that's what my local shop uses

japanadawood glue. This step is really only for keeping the water out of the holes. Skipping this step can lead to water getting into the core and cause delam issues.

*Water resistant wood glue. Normal wood glue is not 100% water resistant, you need a melamine based marine one really. There is also nothing wrong with expoy, if you use a slow cure 72 hour one, its not that much harder to undo than wood glue. A T handle driver will release it/

Lamafama*Water resistant wood glue. Normal wood glue is not 100% water resistant, you need a melamine based marine one really. There is also nothing wrong with expoy, if you use a slow cure 72 hour one, its not that much harder to undo than wood glue. A T handle driver will release it/

Thanks that helps a lot.

Howd it go? Did you get any spinners?

japanadaHowd it go? Did you get any spinners?

Just finished mounting them. It did not turn out as well as I hoped. I had all the templates laid out and holes marked. I must have messed up on one of the markings so one hole was off giving the back of my binding a little angle. (maybe two millimeters)I don't think it will effect my skiing at all. A huge tip to any one who tries to do this, make sure you take the back binding it self off the plate and just mount the plate. It makes it so much easier to drill the screws straight in when the binding is off. Also for any one who feels they want to mount their own bindings try it on a 2x4 first to get a feel for everything, and check your markings after you take the template off so you don't make the same mistake I did. And make sure you have plenty of time, it took me almost four hours to do both skis. Overall I learned a lot and didn't have to shell out $80 so I count it as a success. Thanks everyone for all the help.

Good work man! 2mm off isnt too bad for your first time, and its not something that youll notice.

That said, i should have said to be sure to use a punch on where the center of the holes should be. That helps you align your drill bit and keep it centered and straight.

Jigs can be found for $40-$80 bucks and if you stick with one binding manufacturer youll be good for year!

Hindsight being 20-20 and all that, I centre-punch through the template then measure from the edge to each hole with calipers to check that I'm all centred.
Also means the drillbit won't skid on the topsheet when you start drilling.

I did punch holes through the template and that is where I think I made my mistake of being a few millimeters off.