Edge sharpening concerns regarding brand new skis

G_NukecumberI recently bought a pair of Rossignol Slat and the edges are pretty sharp but I want to clarify if it is necessary to re sharpen the edges even if they have never been used

If it helps to know the region I ski in it is the north east but mainly in Pennsylvania Thanks for the help

If you are sliding rails, don't sharpen your skis at all. In fact, a lot of riders will detune their skis underfoot, or dull them, so they don't catch on rails and get edge cracks as easy. If you use these for park, do not sharpen them. The factory always makes them hella sharp.

Swandog7If you are sliding rails, don't sharpen your skis at all. In fact, a lot of riders will detune their skis underfoot, or dull them, so they don't catch on rails and get edge cracks as easy. If you use these for park, do not sharpen them. The factory always makes them hella sharp.

Thanks for the help but another question how can you de tune the edges without damaging the skis

G_NukecumberThanks for the help but another question how can you de tune the edges without damaging the skis

You'll need a metal file, a diamond stone, (wet the diamond stone when you use it), and a gummy stone. There are a few good YouTube videos on it, I recommend the one from Backcountry.com and I knkw there are a few others.

G_NukecumberI recently bought a pair of Rossignol Slat and the edges are pretty sharp but I want to clarify if it is necessary to re sharpen the edges even if they have never been used

If it helps to know the region I ski in it is the north east but mainly in Pennsylvania Thanks for the help

If you are doing rails etc. you want to detune (dull) the edges under foot. Then you might want to be sure the base bevel is no less than one degree and make that a "long bevel". In other words bevel into the base a bit.

If you need to carve hard or icy stuff you need not just a sharp edge, but a TRUE edge. Imagine an ice skate with a worbbaly blade. It won't track.

Check out my videos on new ski tuning. Most all skis need work to true the edges from the machine tuning. Hand tuning with a good feel for it is the only way to go.

This will get you started. https://youtu.be/GNqXz9jTNg8

DominatorJacquesIf you are doing rails etc. you want to detune (dull) the edges under foot. Then you might want to be sure the base bevel is no less than one degree and make that a "long bevel". In other words bevel into the base a bit.

If you need to carve hard or icy stuff you need not just a sharp edge, but a TRUE edge. Imagine an ice skate with a worbbaly blade. It won't track.

Check out my videos on new ski tuning. Most all skis need work to true the edges from the machine tuning. Hand tuning with a good feel for it is the only way to go.

This will get you started. https://youtu.be/GNqXz9jTNg8

Honestly beveling isn't a huge deal. It can be a little difficult and nerve racking if you haven't done it before. If you get them beveled I'd have someone else do it. I don't bevel my skis because I don't feel the need to and I hit rails 90% of the time I skied last year being that I live in MN which is basically a rail garden state with almost no jumps

Swandog7Honestly beveling isn't a huge deal. It can be a little difficult and nerve racking if you haven't done it before. If you get them beveled I'd have someone else do it. I don't bevel my skis because I don't feel the need to and I hit rails 90% of the time I skied last year being that I live in MN which is basically a rail garden state with almost no jumps

Most ski come with a one degree base bevel and many have even more.
Still good to check it out dude.

DominatorJacquesMost ski come with a one degree base bevel and many have even more.
Still good to check it out dude.

I'm not saying he shouldn't but but beveling is putting the icing on the top. It's more of an optional thing to do. I encourage you to do it, maybe have a shop do it for you though, but I don't and plenty of others don't either. Really you can do what you want. I got Da Nollies still in the wrapper to use for this coming season and I won't be beveling them, just a nice detune

G_NukecumberThanks for the help but another question how can you de tune the edges without damaging the skis

If you have never worked with ski edges I recommend having someone who is experienced teach you or do it for you.

You can watch as many video as you want but someone there that can correct your mistakes makes all the difference.

Swandog7I'm not saying he shouldn't but but beveling is putting the icing on the top. It's more of an optional thing to do. I encourage you to do it, maybe have a shop do it for you though, but I don't and plenty of others don't either. Really you can do what you want. I got Da Nollies still in the wrapper to use for this coming season and I won't be beveling them, just a nice detune

It's like this Swandog. My vids can help anyone who has the desire to learn. The vids are very long because you don't learn crap in a three min. video. The learning from all my vids is in the talk and that talk never stops in my vids. If you skip any part you might miss a very important aspect of the work you are trying to learn and understand. One doesn't need to go to any shop once they get it down and that's a skill one will never regret if they ski a lot. Most shops use machines and those can screw up a ski to all hell. Kinda sucks when you pay good money for a pair. Because I know what the hell I'm doing I still have some old skis that still kick ass. So your next comment toward me should be on the vids I recommended to the guy who asked the question. But then you probably either don't have the patients to watch them or already know everything anyway.

If one is a rail banger a long bevel really helps a lot to reduce edge cracking. You can smooth the outside of the edge all you want, but one cannot neglect the inside of the edge where it meets the plastic. Nothing worse than an edge high ski.

DominatorJacquesIt's like this Swandog. My vids can help anyone who has the desire to learn. The vids are very long because you don't learn crap in a three min. video. The learning from all my vids is in the talk and that talk never stops in my vids. If you skip any part you might miss a very important aspect of the work you are trying to learn and understand. One doesn't need to go to any shop once they get it down and that's a skill one will never regret if they ski a lot. Most shops use machines and those can screw up a ski to all hell. Kinda sucks when you pay good money for a pair. Because I know what the hell I'm doing I still have some old skis that still kick ass. So your next comment toward me should be on the vids I recommended to the guy who asked the question. But then you probably either don't have the patients to watch them or already know everything anyway.

If one is a rail banger a long bevel really helps a lot to reduce edge cracking. You can smooth the outside of the edge all you want, but one cannot neglect the inside of the edge where it meets the plastic. Nothing worse than an edge high ski.

dam shots fired haha. I didn't even see the part of about checking out your video, nor was I saying you shouldn't watch the video. Its a safer choice just to go to the shop for now, once these skis are a little more beat then I'd try it. I wouldn't try beveling your first time on a brand new pair. That's why I was saying its more of an optional thing to do

Swandog7dam shots fired haha. I didn't even see the part of about checking out your video, nor was I saying you shouldn't watch the video. Its a safer choice just to go to the shop for now, once these skis are a little more beat then I'd try it. I wouldn't try beveling your first time on a brand new pair. That's why I was saying its more of an optional thing to do

It's all good Swandog. The thing is once the base edge is work hardened from hitting rails it's going to be very hard to do anything to it as it's going to be so hard. That's why it needs to be set up for rails before it is used for the best results. That's not to say that eventually the edges aren't going to break, because they will, just maybe last a lot longer if the ski is set up right when new. Anyway I'm just like you, trying to help out someone who is asking. As you must know a park tune and a pipe tune are two totally different things. For box and rail I would actually recommend a 2 degree base bevel and make it long as well. The contact points of the tips and tails should not be detuned or dulled. Yet I digress. I don't mean to dis you in any way, just respect that my first reply was aimed at the guy who asked, then you replied to me so I just wanted to work you a bit because of that.

Tell you what, I'm going to put in a vote for you as member of the month! Then I'm going to give you a 10! Take care man.

DominatorJacquesIt's all good Swandog. The thing is once the base edge is work hardened from hitting rails it's going to be very hard to do anything to it as it's going to be so hard. That's why it needs to be set up for rails before it is used for the best results. That's not to say that eventually the edges aren't going to break, because they will, just maybe last a lot longer if the ski is set up right when new. Anyway I'm just like you, trying to help out someone who is asking. As you must know a park tune and a pipe tune are two totally different things. For box and rail I would actually recommend a 2 degree base bevel and make it long as well. The contact points of the tips and tails should not be detuned or dulled. Yet I digress. I don't mean to dis you in any way, just respect that my first reply was aimed at the guy who asked, then you replied to me so I just wanted to work you a bit because of that.

Tell you what, I'm going to put in a vote for you as member of the month! Then I'm going to give you a 10! Take care man.

Thanks amigo! Yah It was kinda for both of you I guess. Yah I know the tune are completely different. He could also detune the contact points if he wanted to, but I usually don't a lot, maybe just a little. Take care man. Ill throw some karma your way.