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so i had a little bit of time on my hands, and im always wanting to know how certain things work, so i took apart the toe piece on my fks 140s. it was really easy and simple, just getting the screw to catch was the only relatively tricky part.so heres a vid and some pics showing whats inside your binding. nearly the entire toe is plastic, so thats why if youre a high din skier and want a burley bindng the 180 is more for you and have a metal toe. it kind of sketched me out how almost the entire binding toe is plastic. just thought id share some pics if anyone cares. peace out ns
SteezOnSkis12I rate the thread a 4 because it really had no point. but you are holding your screwdriver wrong...
The point was to show what's inside, and how it works. ( I said that in the op btw lol) and I was holding it like cus if you hold it normally it pushes up on the screw which shifts it which doesn't allow you to catch the threads. All I was doing there was starting the screw, then if you watch the video after I get it started I crank it down holding the screw driver """correctly""""
.WashingtonThe point was to show what's inside, and how it works. ( I said that in the op btw lol) and I was holding it like cus if you hold it normally it pushes up on the screw which shifts it which doesn't allow you to catch the threads. All I was doing there was starting the screw, then if you watch the video after I get it started I crank it down holding the screw driver """correctly""""
Lol k I thought you meant you were just taking it apart for the fun of it
SteezOnSkis12Lol k I thought you meant you were just taking it apart for the fun of it
kind of, I was doing it Cus I was curious, and to show everyone what's inside and how it's really all plastic :) and i also posted it incase someone's wing or something else broke they could take it apart and see what's wrong (at their own risk)
Caucasian_AsianPretty sure you voided your warranty by doing that.
S.J.Wyeah if I was you I'd take them to a shop, never fuck around with your bindings unless you're a ski tech.
yea probly caucasian, i got them from my friend used, and i said at your own risk, not really concerned about breaking them, and if i did i can get some sth2s for cheap.
and lolololol why would i take them to a shop? i just wanted to see how they work and theyre not even on a ski? ive been cautious and have learned how to set my forward pressure and din for years and have had 0 problems. and when your shop doesnt know forward pressure from din, and cant properly trim climbing skins, i will do it myself with caution 100% of the time, unless i need a mount.
I say go for it if you're curious always kind of cool to know how things work I've always been like that, but in this situation a binding is a risky part due to safety. But if you're curious as to what it looks like nothings stopping you! Now I personally know what it looks like inside, pretty sick
It is ok if you are interested in what is in an old binding but dont go putting videos of you taking bindings apart online. You are asking for problems if you go messing with your bindings and you are encouraging people to mess with things.
Really you never want to be taking bindings apart yourself, I can assure you I have spent countless hour's putting bindings back together that people have tried to "fix".
As I say though play with old stuff its a great way to learn
tomPietrowskiIt is ok if you are interested in what is in an old binding but dont go putting videos of you taking bindings apart online. You are asking for problems if you go messing with your bindings and you are encouraging people to mess with things.
Really you never want to be taking bindings apart yourself, I can assure you I have spent countless hour's putting bindings back together that people have tried to "fix".
As I say though play with old stuff its a great way to learn
While I don't want to stifle curiosity, I'm somewhat inclined to agree - after all you have no idea of things like what torque things should be done up to, nor do you have the tools to make sure you achieve said torque.
At the verrrrrry least I'd say get a release force test done on them once they're mounted to make sure they still release within spec at both ends of the DIN scale.
rozboonWhile I don't want to stifle curiosity, I'm somewhat inclined to agree - after all you have no idea of things like what torque things should be done up to, nor do you have the tools to make sure you achieve said torque.
At the verrrrrry least I'd say get a release force test done on them once they're mounted to make sure they still release within spec at both ends of the DIN scale.
Roger that rozboon. I actually thought of doing that right after I took them apart. Hopefully my shop has one of those machines
.WashingtonRoger that rozboon. I actually thought of doing that right after I took them apart. Hopefully my shop has one of those machines
If you're in the US, and I'm kinda assuming you are, then to be indemnified on a mount job they're supposed to check the release with a torque-measuring device... so they really should have one.
Definitely a fan of this!
Cool to see how it all works and as often is the case it's a lot simpler than I thought it would be inside. Thanks for posting!
DeebieSkeebiesIm assuming its a lot more difficult to take apart the all metal race fks 150s and all-metal fks 180 toe pieces right?
Rossi really needs to bring back the all steel toe with lower din settings, the 150 is a perfect binding.
My guess is it's just as easy, and why not?
Nobody unscrews the preload that far unless they're taking it apart. The only thing that I can see being harder is getting it back together since it's got a stiffer spring in there, but chances are it's exactly the same process.
PS. If someone can prove me wrong go for it, I'd love to see how they come apart.
