*TURBONERD*I'm not looking at anything else specifically, but I'm by no means fixated on this bike and am quite open to any recommendations. I'd like to go either 650b or 29, preferably the former for greater versatility.
I wouldn't necessary cut the 29ers from your consideration for being less versatile. You'd be surprised at how nimble some of the 29" bikes have gotten these days. The 110-140mm range especially so. I know riders on Santa Cruz Tallboy LT's, Kona Process 111, Camber Evo's, Stumpjumper's and Stumpjumper Evo's, Ibis Ripley's. Those are among the go-to 29" bikes here in the greater PNW from what I've seen.
There are so many bikes out there these days, it's definitely overwhelming at times. Go hit up some local demo days and or borrow/rent/steal? some bikes to get some good ideas for comparison and what you need or want in your bike.
You have how many bikes now? What are you missing to really fill out that constantly growing stable of bikes to it's fullest? The perfect complement without overlap...
JuliusJTubeless should be your first and foremost upgrade. I dropped almost a full pound on my Enduro just with that.
My Knolly Endorphin went from 30.08lbs to 29.28lbs converting from tubes to tubeless on Continental Trail King 26x2.4 Protections. I then dropped to 28.68lbs when switching to Specialized Butcher Control 26x2.3's setup tubeless. Tire choice can definitely save some weight as well. The other parts to drop weight cost more and don't net as large of weight reduction numbers to make it worth it some of the time.
...my bike is lighter than 28.68lbs now, but that's beside the point.
B-rungebrb, going to get a big bottle of stans right now...
Orange Seal yo.
NinetyFourAfter converting my Farley I think most bikes in my future will be tubeless. Of course it's an extreme example, but the 2.29lbs of rotating mass that has been shed has taken an awesome bike to a whole new level. It rips so hard over everything now, and I think I might be faster on it compared to my normal XC bike. I'm also going to start some testing running laps with lower pressures, all the way down to maybe 6psi which would be pretty tough to do tubed
Glad to hear you are trying it at much lower pressure now! I haven't run anything lower than 6psi in front and 6.5-7psi in the rear with tubes for normal trail riding yet. Going to wait until I finally get the time to tape up my rims to go any lower.
kbonri want to take my bike from more of a cross country bike to a more 'fun' enduro like bike... I've already looked into going tubeles and i will do that when i upgrade my front fork, but i was wondering what upgrades i can do that will make my bike more fun over drops and gnarly shit but still able to perform on the uphills
The SID fork is
NOT what you want for "fun' enduro like bike." The Pike is Rockshox's premier trail/all mountain/"like endurbro, yo" fork. It fucking kills and is pretty light considering the competition. The Revelation would be it's little brother more geared for hardcore XC riding, or lighter all mountain riding (enduro if you prefer that term) for those riders that are either on the lighter side, or just don't demand as much from their gear.
Do some research on what your bike can accept in regards to maximum travel of fork and evaluate what you want to do with your bike compared to the parts you are thinking of buying. What prompted the focus on the SID for your replacement fork? Your stock Recon is a better choice than the SID for the type of riding you wanted to do. Maybe putting the money you want to spend in upgrades towards a bike that's more oriented in the all mountain/"enduro" category would be money more well spent in the long run?
Just something to consider.
ThaLoraxI don't understand why you would want to ride a bike at less than 10psi anyways. That sounds like 0% pedaling efficiency. Even for a fat bike. How did it ride?
Fat bikes are best with tire pressures lower than 10psi. That's the point. Maximum traction and maximum flotation with ginormous tires.
Sure, there is definitely a noticeable rolling bounce if you have forceful and erratic pedal strokes. Which will happen on any given ride. But if you are cruising along on a paved trail or road at a good pace and pedaling smooth strokes, it is super smooth and a blast to ride. Really rides like no other bikes out there.
I definitely suggest to anyone that is even remotely intrigued by the idea to go to the nearest shop and just ride one. At least around the block, dirt would be better, but they are damn fun to ride anywhere you take them.
JuliusJYeah pretty sure thats for when you ride snow or sand and stuff... not just trails. I wouldn't want it that low at least
I ride my local trails that I usually ride on my Knolly, with my Fatboy. Different feel, but I'm almost hitting the same speeds on a rigid 26x4.8 fatbike versus the 140mm 26" trail bike. That's with tire pressure ranges from 6-8psi front and rear.
Not something I want to ride everyday, but I do ride it on some local trails at least once a week.
.lenconAnyone have any tips on cutting down a seat post? Need to cut like 2.5 inches off mine so I can put it lower for downhill
Cheap and clean way is to find a pipe cutter. Leaves a smooth and sharp edge, hit it with some light file work and you're good. I found a pipe cutter at Home Depot for less than $10 and have used it for 2 seatposts and 4 handlebars so far. Well worth the cheap investment and leaves a much better result than a hacksaw.
