As he said any flat diagonally running file works fine, or you can get one of those stone thingys too, they work pretty good. Just take it slow and go a little at a time. If you do rails, leave your edges in the middle a little duller than your tips and tails. After you are finished I suggest rubbing it with a little steel wool to really smooth it out, and then run over it with a magnet to get off any remaining pieces of metal.
omg, dont just use one of your dad's files. you need file sleeves so you get the correct bevel and shit. just take them to a shop, cause you'll prolly fuck it up. or else buy one of those pocket tuners. and search online, cause i've found some good websites with instructions before
you don't need a bevler if you have flat edges. a lot of skis do have 90 degree flat edges so a flat file works fine as long as your careful. if they are beveled edges, like 85 degrees then get a bevler or take them to a shop
yeah but if you handtune your skis they will be much sharper then with a machine, if you do it the right way ofcourse.
But most of the times it could be good to tune down cuts and stuff with a machine, and then tune it by hand.
I hate to split heirs with you, but are you telling him that he will get a better tune with a machine than by hand? Or are you saying that with his limited experience he will get a better tune at the shop? Because the best edge tunes are done by hand if you have the correct equipment and the experience.
'Say what you will about the tenets of modern socialism, at least its an ethos' -Walter Sojezch, The Big Lebowski
haha, 0 degree edges, you'll want to put in between a 1 degree and 3 degree bevel, depending on your skiing style, if your a newschooler, than you probibly have none. But use a mill file. There pretty standard, and then a diamond stone to take out the burs. You can use the tape method for getting the correct edge, or you can buy a sharpening guide.