SURFING STORIES ASAP!!!!

surfing... stories? as soon as possible?

i went to tofino-->got really drunk-->tryed to go surfing at 3am-->failed horribly-->almmost drowned-->so much fun either way




-Chloe
skiing=radical

Surfing this summer in Ocean City, MD. My board flew up and jacked me in the head apparently. I got knocked out cold. I woke up in the water with a group of about 40 surfers around and blood poruing out from my temple. I was on my board with my body holding on to me dragging me in. I just went to the medical center got stiched up and went to the hospital later to get a ct scan. It was pretty scary to know what could have happened.

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I live in N. San Diego County so surfing is just something to do I guess. But after this shit I try not to go out alone anymore. I should've been a bit more cautious about getting in the water when I got down to the beach and saw the waves breaking up over the beach and sweeping the sand out, but it looked epic so I went. Granted there were maybe 5 other people out there but it still wasn't safe at all. I heard there was a big storm offshore but I'd never seen the waves as big as they were that day. After I got rocked I went up and asked the lifeguard the estimate on the avg. wave hieght, they saw the wave I got hammered by and said that one was about 15 to 20ft, it felt like it... So onto the story, it's real short. I did my pre flight ritual wax, stretch, meditate and I took off. For how big the waves were there wasn't much of a current so I wasn't to scared. It was pretty hard to paddle out, but ig only got worse the closer to the lineup I got. All of a sudden I see this wave building up about 100yds out from me and I know this ain't gonna be fun. It was cruising, and building fast, I couldn't paddle out fast enough to punch through it so I took my chances and ducked. As soon as I did that the wave was peaked and proceed to pummel me with it full weight. I would sa for about 30 seconds I was spincycled underwater from being almost close enough to the surface to take a breath only to be dragged across the bottom a split second later. After I got back up another wave had already crashed and was on top of me just as I poked my head up. My board was being pulled with the wave, and if you surf you know you can't get any floatation in heavy white water without your board. Eventually reeled it back in and got to shore as fast as I could. I was pretty shaken up, I just sat there wondering what would've happened if I was under for just a second longer. Good thing is, I'm still here, and my board didn't break. The only bad shit that's happened to me since was an incident with a stingray, but life's been good since. You ever get a chance ride the trestles down here, just be careful...


'...Smoking's bad, smoking killed my dad. Yeah, he was driving down the highway one day and as he was lighting his cigarette, it blew out the window. So he jumps out the door to save it, and ran himself over. Uh, you mind if I smoke?' -Olie Ollaussen, Ski Bum extraordinaire

^ Cool man my dad use to live in San Diego and he surfed Blacks every morning before school. He's like 55 now but he always talks about how cool it was.

I think rails in general are just a phase. - Anthony Boronowski

You know my steez.

i didn't know anyone here surfed! surfings what keeps me goin in the summer. sorry, i don't have any stories nearly as good as you guys'.

Jersey Shore Surfing.




-grACIE
i ski because i love it
springs crew 05

My first time surfing, 6 foot waves. (Hey, they looked huge to me.) I fell, whacked my foot against something on the bottom, get out of the water, and my foot is all cut up. Whole top of my foot is torn apart. Went back out, next wave I rode the entire thing.

one time i was surfin' on the internet. i had something like 25 different porn pages open and my computer crashed. is that the type of story you were looking for?








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Jack and Jill went up a hill riding on an elephant. Jill got down to help Jack off the elephant.

I was surfing in my kayak in the river in a hole and got pummeled to the max x factor because ya'll know how it is. You just get sucked into it, and it's recirculating and it took like 45 seconds to get out and everytime I rolled back over I would get trashed again and again and again. Damn, that sucks. Finally I remembered to raise my paddle over my head because the current washed out in the bottom, and got sucked out.
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'peter north is fucken awesome, hes got a big rod and blows gallons of semen on fresh 18 year old faces
-lateralis

'It isn't pollution that's harming the environment. It's the impurities in our air and water that are doing it.'
-Dubya.

'I would never do crack... I would never do a drug named after a part of my own ass, okay?'
Denis Leary.

'You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on.'

'Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.'

'Cocaine is God's way of saying your're making too much money.'
Robin Williams.

'I don't like people who take drugs... Customs men for example.'

probably the coolest surfing story i have is that i was wathcing my sister and out of no where a fuckin dolphin starts riding the wave with her. it was pretty dope to see the dolphin pop outa the wave every now and then.

oh and when i first started surfing i would head straight for my friends and tackle them off their board....that shit was fun.

however now i ocean kiyak and jsut catch waves on that thing.....so much sicker.


[ Slug (Atmosphere) - Reflections ]

You look like you were built for me; You talk like you want to steal my drink
You kiss like you already came; And that's a lift to pull a line for those with out any game

It's like damn baby; You know you can't save me
But you should still tell your people that your leaving with the band; Maybe you can show me your hustle
Neither one of us would be so lonely; If only you would come over here and hold me
I caught you trying to hide your smile behind your glass; But all of your secrets become a swing set when you laugh
And all of your regrets that you're carrying a burying; Don't mean a damn thing if there's nobody to share them with

We've been following each other all night now; We ought to be all over each other like right now
I don't like crowds lets take flight now; Cause that face that you make reminds me of my life now.

reppin' 720.30.3970 playa

I also have a scary ass storm wave duck diving story. This past spring a storm came through and whipped up some sick waves. The current was terrible of course and the winds were hard SW. We were going down about a mile every 20-30 minutes. I tried to duck a 6-8 footer and a side wave came out of nowhere as soon as I popped up and got pitched to the bottom of the ocean. After going through the cycle I came up half out of breath, and of course a monster set came through. I am a pretty strong paddler so normally it isn't to big of a problem. Unfortunately this time my leash had been wrapped around my big toe and my left ankle. This is when it got ugly. I couldn't get up for more then a second because my kicks just tried to pull my board down under. The rip and the board were sucking me down over and out. I really thought I was dead. Luckily I came free and made it back to the top.

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I'm such a fucken loser, i got pumped because i was going to tell this cool story about this one time i was surfing the web, but then....

damn it...


live by the N.E.R.D

tell it.


Communism is alive and well. Just look at Canada... -trevorwoulddoit