Hot Waxing skis?

orly?

Unfortunately for you, working in a ski shop does not make you acquire laws of physics or construction of a thermostat (this thing is inside every iron in case you didn't know). And guess where do I work? It just happens that I have finished school too.

The accuracy of a thermostat is a different thing, but I can't be bother to explain it to you.

ill take my chances.

By the way, anyone have tried to measure the temperature of a working iron soleplate with thermocouple? Try it and be surprised.

haha you actually thought he was being serious?

First off Make sure your skis are ground flat, sometimes companies don't put as much attention to overall quality of freeride/freestyle skis. A lot of times the bases are either base high, or edge high, concave, convex, sometimes both. This can create unwanted drag and friction, as well as make your glide unpredictable and edges hooky or slippy. Even a lot of race skis from the factory need some work to get to flat.

Better quality waxing irons do maintain a more constant temp, than your avg household iron,  partly because of the digital controllers on the nicer one can maintain a more accurate temp, also the thickness of the metal is quite a bit thicker which will maintain constant heat better than thinner metal. That is one of the biggest differences in the low end vs high end swix irons.
The high end have a digital controller and a super thick metal plate that won't distort temps much when dripping or spreading. The lower end thinner metal and an anolog/dial temp control.

As those have already said, it is fairly critical for maximum saturation and to preserve the molecule structure to have a fairly accurate iron temp.
As important if not more important is selecting the best wax for the conditions based on temp and humidity/moisture level.
Also cleaning dirty bases can improve your glide a ton. A lot of dirt and oil gets stuck in the base and can give off an attractive charge to the dirt in the snow slowing you don a ton.

Just like anything else in life you get out of it what you put into it.
I really enjoy having a predictable smooth glide every time. It is worth the extra time and care to get your boards juiced in the morning or the night before.

your ski should be slightly higher in the middle of the base then on the edges.

you sir are a dip shit

lol @ all the people who thinks he is serious

why?

why not sharpening skis? im not saying your wrong just wondering why thats bad i would think hot waxing is harder than sharpening skis

i would say if someone is having a question on how to wax skis then edge work is allot more complicated at least when don legit. meaning edge bevel guids, a file and the succession from low to high grit moon stones. its hard to collect, and use vary expensive edge tools where you would just be better of learning how to wax your skis first.

also, you will be waxing your skis way more then sharpening them. you can always bring your skis in to a shop to be worked one at the end of the year.

actually it should be completely flat.

to make the transition from edge to edge. mr. huck made a video on it.