Theres 2 Screws on the back of any 5 screw silly heel (STH 12,14,16,16 steel, 916, 920, 997 equipe) the bigger top one is Din and the little one is the wormsrew that moves the heel forward and backward. to correctly set the forward pressure on a Sally driver binding one must do 3 things,
1. Set the heel piece so that the dead center on the inside curve of the heel cup is around 3-5mm from the dead center of the back outside curve on the boots heel lug.
Next click the boot into the binding
2. next is toe height, and that is controlled by the big screw on the top of the toe piece of ALL Driver bindings. Tighten or loosen the toe height until you can slide a thinner credit card (id's and old gift cards work too) underneath the boot and can pull it out with very little resistance. If i remember right the sally shop book says .5mm, but the credit card trick works fine.
Now the toe height is set.
3. Next is toe wing adjustment, and the S912(14), and the STH 12(14,16) all have micro simultaneous toe wing adjustment, controlled by that little screw on the middle of the left toe wing. Back the drew as far out as it lets you then center the boot on the ski and in the binding. With the boot centered in the binding tighten the screw until both wing afd's just touch the boot. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, as that will cause the drew to back itself out and risk stripping it, creating slop in the wings. Wing adjustment follows the same procedure for S916, STH 16 Steels, and 997s, but the toe wings have stews on both wings, for an even more precise toe wing adjustment...
Really not too mush trouble to adjust these bindings once your familiar with them. Own all different din range and vintage driver series bindings and have always adjusted them to fit the pops/ buddies boots. much easier than taking them to a shop every time for a 3mm adjustment, and much safer than not touching them at all even though you guys have very similar bsl's