that is pretty damn amazing when you are decently stoned...
Do you think pros have fun when they are training so they can win comps and put food on the table to support their baby momma? Fuck fun its all about the Cash serious people need to eating and eating is not always fun
"half of ns isn't old enough to care about this shit and the other half is too high to do anything about it"
i can only imagine the feeling you get when your in the barrel of that wave, to your right is a frothy whitewash of death, above you is thousands of tons of beautiful water arcing over your head, and freedom to your left. thats what i call seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. theese surfers experience near death daily for fun. shits insane.
"There's no T in Kenworthy. That is all."
no you wouldnt. that was a lay day in between the billabong pro, most pros wouldnt even go out. i dont know if you mean on just an overhead day, but ive surfed it on a boat trip there when it was about 4 feet and a little overhead and it humbled the fuck out of me. took me a few hours to get comfortable.