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I know that in my local shop.... .if you buy the complete set
They will set up an appointment and teach you how to use it...
Its definatly worth getting your own stuff.... it will save u lots of money in the long run..
Waht you need is..
that is everything.
You can get an iron from goodwill for like $5. dont spend your money on those shitty irons from ski shops.
Heat up the iron, drip wax onto the ski, smooth out the wax with the iron. let it dry for 10-15 minutes, scrape the wax off, use the structure brush then the cork to smooth it out.
nix the base cleaner hot scrape any cheap iron will do if your iron/wax is smoking too hot.
don't have time to explain the difference between low flou and high flou vs hydrocarbon but I'm sure if you searched on the interweb the answers are out there. Try tognar for more good tech info or toyko swix etc
Here's what they don't tell u.
And there are simple fixes to this, but think about it because once u start waxing , u may have to start tuning and want more etc.... and in the long run if u keep skiing u save $$ but for the 1st year u wind up spending money...
1) where r u gonna wax - it can leave a mess behind - u wanna clean up ? are u gonna damage anything? 2) Whats gonna hold ur ski brakes outta the way? get some elastics, ski straps or cut some blown out bike tube.... 3) What's gonna hold the skis? Do u need a set of vises ? or what's gonna hold the skis when u try to scrape?, brush? vises r expensive....
4) after waxing and scraping a couple times ur plastic scraper goes dull so do u sharpen it or buy new or some use sandpaper(crappy)...or get a metal scraper...and an elastic breaks...whatever .5) so eventually u nick ur ski edges and it nicks your scraper or iron or u just want to fix it so u gotta buy a stone or file or something....
6) so u see u wind up doing some basic tuning....7) and u realize u want a better brush because it doesn't work well on harder / cold wax.... 8) and yeah u want a gummi stone to clean off rust or de-tune....9) then u want to try a FLouro wax or something different to see if it is better....
So if u start it can suck u in and ur $$$....but eventually u will become tech & smart and confident and u can invite the ladies to your wax room..... after a couple years u will have saved on store tunes & wax jobs and it's paid off.... so what's it worth to u ? When it comes together it is so so good and having a waxroom with a good music is great.
wow . not scraping the wax off your skis is kinda dumb.
your skis have something called a structure. mirco grooves in the bases to help water not stick and if they are filled with wax your skis feel sticky when the snow is wetter.
right now for my brush i jsut use a nylon kicthen brush( new of course) should i be useing a better one ? and do i still need to brush it tip to tail or can i do it anyway?
for me waxing my skis is a spiritual experience. sounds gay i know-but when i do it i put on some bob marley, crack a cold one and just take my time with it. its quite easy to do. but being in the garage where its kinda cold, and the smell of the wax-like snowtrailsmark said it just gets you in the mood for the next day and plus its very gratifying to be able to hand tune your own skis. and not having some dude at a sports store just ram it through some wax machine. and i use an iron i got from target for about $8 bucks.
What u get from an expensive ski iron - if u care for the features:
Top of the line ski irons often have a choice of power - say 600 watts or 1200 so if u need the heat when working in a cold garage u use 1200. Other irons are OK with 850 w. Cheap irons maybe like 600w. House hold irons can be very strong depending if they are good..
Top ski irons had digital read outs - so if your wax says use at 130 degress u set the iron and u can watch the display as the iron cools down when waxing and heats up again to do the job. You know u are working to the waz manufacturers spec and u shouldn't burn your base. Medium and cheap irons have no display medium quality irons have a rotary switch with a a couple temp setting which is OK but they can be off so start lower to not burn bases . House irons start low like permanent press low and move up slowly . Once u figure out your Goodwill / Target of from where-ever iron u r good.
Cheap irons have poor heating coils and bases, they go cold real fast as u iron then heat up real fast and cannot hold a constant temp so u r more prone to burn you wax and bases with htis back & forth. Look for a thick heavy base.
u can use a "steam iron " without water but the different waxes get in the holes and as u move from a warm soft wax to a cold wax the olf soft wax burns and smokes and leaves debris. So ya, flat irons are the best but u can do it with holes.
Top ski irons sometimes have both grooves and holes and flat sections. The flat portions are for powders, FL , additives and the grooves are for rolling wax fwd...
Besides melting your Ptex base the irregular heat from a cheap iron can delam or blister your pTex off the 'core' or the ski.
That's my tech experience.
A cork is a real cork or artificial material kinda cork the size of a small fist that is used to rub in wax. It comes from the old cross country ski thing.
So u get a soft wax, or a rub on wax or u already have wax and u r adding FL powder or some special additive like moly and u crayon wax to the ski base (or dust the powder) and then cork it in.
Do a soft & gently cork run from tip to tail and then progress to a firm & harder pass. The last cuple harder rub in provides enough heat to set the wax onto the base.
Using an iron is WAY WAY better but this is for rub on waxes, paste, soft wax, FL, when u travel and desperate measures. It works but does not last like ironing in. It works at the top of a race course .. where layers of waxes are used for that 100th of a second thing.