Your Best Photography

CBROOKS · 2005-11-08 17:15:50

All of it, any of the shots you have that came out really nice [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/DSC_2073.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/DSC_2030.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_3034.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/myride.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_3130.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/islandinthesun.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_3065.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2494.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2480.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2480.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2524.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2496.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y234/mxpxfreerider/IMG_2493.jpg[/IMG]

Bill.Nye

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Some from today

Mar 3 2012 12:24AM

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1337

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Basement Dweller

you ever shoot with stobes? I feel like it would add a little something to these 3, (esp. the ones with the sun directly behind them) and make the skier stand out more. That or I just LOVEEEEE strobed shots :P

Mar 3 2012 12:48AM

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Bill.Nye

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Usually only at night. Plus the max sync speed of the D700 is 1/250th of a second so I wouldn't really be able to use strobes here. I could use a big reflector (which I have) but that'd be kind of a dick move to the athletes.

Mar 3 2012 1:24AM

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.Ian.

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Insane

Just wondering something, because I'll admit, I really don't know too much about strobes. Why couldn't you just use an aperture of say... f22, ISO of 100 and then drop your shutter speed down. Would that still be overexposed? Would 1/250th be too slow to freeze the action too? Also at f22 you could get a cool sunstar type of thing going on, if that way did work.

I really don't know, that's just my first thought. I'd like someone to explain why I'm wrong though, if I'm wrong about it.

Also a big reflector thing would be kind of annoying, so I can see why you wouldn't use that.

Love the shots though.

Mar 3 2012 7:37AM

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Bill.Nye

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Bingo.

There is a way to trick the system and work at higher shutter speeds if you use Nikon brand flashes, but they're not very powerful and very expensive.

Mar 3 2012 10:27AM

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.Ian.

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Yeah I've heard about that way that you can get higher shutter speeds with Nikon flashes. Also I've never shot skiing during the day with a strobe either, but that makes sense that 1/250th would be too slow. Like you were saying, I usually just use them at night and obviously the flash itself freezes the action since there's not too much other ambient light. During the day though that obviously wouldn't work, definitely makes sense. Great shots though really! I think they're well composed too, unlike what it looks like the other photog in one of those pictures is doing. Haha

Mar 3 2012 10:46AM

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CliffyByro

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just saw these on tumblr, love the vintage look

Mar 3 2012 4:51PM

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Sklar

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when strobing, you are using the flash duration NOT the shutter speed to freeze the action

this means you have to shoot below ambient(close down the lens) so that the strobes are the main light source, that way the flash duration(which is faster than the sync speed) will act to stop the action.
so when shooting into the sun, you can still shoot with a pretty high(small) aperture and get the sun star and freeze the action
OR you could get pocket wizard flex tt5's and hypersync up to 1/8000 shutter speeds
or at least thats what i've been told on the Fred Miranda forums and elsewhere

Mar 3 2012 6:11PM

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.Ian.

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Sorry, I've honestly never shot any motion during the day with a strobe to begin with, so I probably shouldn't have commented in the first place.
I've just never really used strobes before other than at night or in dim lighting conditions when I've really needed it as a main light source. I ORIGINALLY thought that even though the flash duration would be short enough to freeze the action, the constant light would create motion blur, but I now see why that's not true and why I was wrong.
I've wanted to start practicing more with strobes to freeze action and stuff in different lighting conditons, but I really don't have anyone to shoot.
For the past couple years I had been following some pro photographers who have talked kinda poorly about strobes/flash in general, so I just always kept myself away from it. I wish I learned more about it when I started photography a few years ago. When done right though I feel like it makes a shot look 1000 times better so I'm definitely going to try to practice with it a ton now.

Mar 3 2012 7:10PM

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Sklar

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I am no expert, far from it actually.
I'm in a similar situation to you, and have been playing around more with strobes.
A lot of what I've learned is from lurking the Fred Miranda forums but i definitely have A LOT to learn

Mar 3 2012 7:16PM

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Bill.Nye

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"when strobing, you are using the flash duration NOT the shutter speed to freeze the action"

That doesn't work in broad daylight.

"this means you have to shoot below ambient(close down the lens) so that the strobes are the main light source"

Stopping down will limit light coming from the flash as well as the ambient, it doesn't change the ratio. That's why a faster max sync speed is so useful, you can increase the shutter speed to decrease exposure from ambient light, but it doesn't affect light from the flash.

"OR you could get pocket wizard flex tt5's and hypersync up to 1/8000 shutter speeds

or at least thats what i've been told on the Fred Miranda forums and elsewhere"

Those only work on first party flashes anyway, the only advantage is they use radio transmitters in stead of IR so you don't need line of sight to trigger them.

Mar 3 2012 7:28PM

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.Ian.

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Okay, that's what I thought originally. So was I actually right? haha

Mar 3 2012 7:38PM

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Bill.Nye

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I mean theoretically, if you stopped down (or had an ND filter) so far that your exposure would have to be several seconds and then used a flash to freeze the motion, it would work, but you would need a flash so powerful that I don't even know if you can buy one. I certainly don't have one.

Mar 3 2012 7:40PM

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Sklar

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How do you freeze action with flashed then?

My understanding was that you stop down to cut out ambient so you don't get blur from that, and then use the flash duration, which will be way faster than the sync speed, to stop the action. So in essence, you're opening the shutter, but the light is coming from the flash, so your effective shutter speed is that of your flash duration.

Mar 3 2012 7:51PM

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.Ian.

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Right ok, I see what you're saying.

Mar 3 2012 7:52PM

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Bill.Nye

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That does all work in theory, but in order to make it work in broad daylight, your flash would have to be able to overpower the sun by a lot.

There wouldn't be much point in it anyway, since when you shoot in the pipe, the big white walls reflect so much light that you have plenty fill already.

Mar 3 2012 8:21PM

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Sklar

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i thought you were generalizing that to all situations, not just daylight
makes more sense now

Mar 3 2012 8:25PM

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Bill.Nye

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Yeah that method works great around sunset.

Mar 3 2012 8:28PM

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Toasty.

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Nothing special at all, just glad i finally got a moon shot

Mar 4 2012 2:47AM

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akarlsen

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Ridiculous

first time shooting the northern light, hoping to get to see more of it next time tho.

Mar 4 2012 6:38PM

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FBGM

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That's beautiful.

Mar 4 2012 10:56PM

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Kangbang

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Taken with a Nikon d300 with a Sigma 70-200 2.8. I took the photo. I'm not sure why my friend decided to make it black and white. It was super crisp and nice in the raw image.

Mar 5 2012 1:30AM

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.Ian.

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I really like this actually. I'll never buy supreme, mainly because I'll never be able to afford it, but I can definitely see this as a great product shot for them or something. It looks simple, but that's what makes it look good!
Also what did you use for the backdrop?

Mar 5 2012 8:49AM

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Bmo.

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the only thing i would suggest is to zoom out a little bit. you want to see the whole hat.

Mar 5 2012 9:36AM

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.Ian.

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I thought the same thing when I saw it at first too.
Maybe just a tiny bit though, because you don't really want too much background on the right side because then, since the left hat is going out of the frame, it would look awkwardly weighted to the left. I don't know, just my thoughts, it's not a product shot for the company or anything though so it's not really a big deal either way.

Mar 5 2012 10:12AM

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Kangbang

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I was at 70 on his lens and I was on the other side of his room. Haha.

Mar 5 2012 10:12AM

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1337

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Basement Dweller

My brother "took" this today with a AlienBees B400 in DAYLIGHT to show you can use strobes to capture action during bright days (I set up everything and told him to press the shutter button. He got better photos than I did -__-)

Mar 5 2012 6:11PM

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Bill.Nye

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That looks like dark-ish shade. What was the exposure?

Mar 5 2012 6:43PM

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1337

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Basement Dweller

iso 160
1/200
f/11
5d II with 24-105

Mar 5 2012 7:17PM

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Bill.Nye

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Yeah, that's significantly darker than the f/8 and 1/3000th @iso200 that I was at.

Mar 5 2012 8:22PM

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1337

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Basement Dweller

true, but not saying you can't strobe in full daylight. Look at twood's stuff:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/11084378@N05/6950222525/in/set-72157629140494132

Mar 5 2012 8:32PM

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Bill.Nye

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I'll bet you $5 that was taken at less than 1/250th of a second, which means he either has. Camera with a better sync speed (his profile says he has a d50) or he used a flash that can use nikons high speed sync feature.

Mar 5 2012 8:53PM

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Sklar

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From the other thread

"crank the 1600 to full power, it has a short enough t.5 to freeze action, and overpowers sunlight. because of that, if I expose for the ambient light, the parts of the frame that are lit with strobes are actually a little over-exposed. If I shoot into the sun and it's lighting shadows the effect of shooting strobes in the day is more apparent, as the background can be a little darker.

depending on where in the frame I'm positioning the action, I can sync up to 1/650 using Paul C Buff triggers on the d300. one of the advantages of nikon is they do better with sync speeds. Although, because the shutter travels in the opposite direction of a Canon, if I am only trying to illuminate the top half of a landscape oriented frame, I have to turn my camera upside down... haha. "

Mar 5 2012 9:10PM

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Bill.Nye

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I guess I can keep my $5

Mar 5 2012 9:27PM

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PurpleDino

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Insane

Mar 6 2012 6:56AM

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Raz.

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Mar 6 2012 6:05PM

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Raz.

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Crazy Fool

sorry for double, second image should be:

Mar 6 2012 6:07PM

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jeano

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Loner

luzern, switzerland

Mar 6 2012 7:07PM

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SSteezle

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Crazy Fool

the moon tonight

Mar 6 2012 10:20PM

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PurpleDino

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It looks really yellow, it may have been like that but I'm not sure. Here a picture of the moon from me last night:

Mar 7 2012 7:20AM

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SSteezle

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yeah I just played with the white balance a bit. I see too many moon shots that look identical so I was trying to give it a little different look-- but there's not much you can change about a moon besides playing with WB

Mar 7 2012 7:29AM

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Aenigma

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Mar 7 2012 7:21PM

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Raz.

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Mar 7 2012 7:25PM

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colgan1

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Wannabe

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61638409@N05/6293308206/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61638409@N05/6235924837/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61638409@N05/5770360220/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/61638409@N05/6293310560/in/photostream

Mar 7 2012 9:04PM

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selkirks

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Just sort of playing around with different photography techniques at this point, both as part of a class and outside of class. I'm enjoying it; working my way slowly into more creative and difficult shots and especially shooting more people. Essentially started in October, but really just got into more digital stuff (versus black-and-white film) in January.

Thoughts?